SC10 4x4 Thread
#9091
#9092
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I finally decided to pull the trigger on this truck. It was down to between this and the losi. Even though the AE was 30 bucks less having to buy the sway bars made up for it so it was pretty much a wash.
I think the final thing that pushed me to the sc was that the AE is lighter and has quicker/more steering, two attributes I felt were much easier adjust out than to try to add back in. I.e. it's hard to drop 10oz of weight vs. adding some stick on lead or adding some custom metal skids.
Also even though the AE is harder to work on, it does look easy to swap out whole subsections, so I figure if I got real serious about racing this thing (i'm currently a noob) I would just buy a second kit an have pre-built front and rear sections ready to go.
Anyway here is the list of parts I ordered. I took advantage of Amain's free shipping and $75 off deal they have going on right now. I also picked up some red & black paint for the body, going to do all racing red with a black stripe down hood roof and bed, and back it all with black.
The LHS I went to for the paint didn't have anything but 30k diff oil in stock so I need to pick some up elsewhere, I'm thinking of doing 5k front and rear for starters (so i only have to buy one bottle) I would just leave it stock but I know they don't come filled all the way and don't think I'll end up running 3k at all.
1 x Team Associated SC10 4x4 1/10 Scale Electric 4WD Short Course Race Truck Kit (ASC90004) = $269.99
1 x Savox SC-1256TG Standard Digital "High Torque" Titanium Gear Servo (SAV-SC-1256TG) = $79.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Rear Swaybar Set (ASC91124) = $17.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Front Swaybar Set (ASC91123) = $16.99
1 x Team Associated 13mm Shock Bladder & Seal Set (4) (ASC91063) = $5.49
1 x Spektrum Voltage Protector (SPM1600) = $4.99
1 x ProTek R/C 2S "Supreme Power" Li-Poly 35C Hard Case Battery Pack (7.4V/5000mAh) (ROAR Approved) (PTK-LPH-5000-2S35-P) = $59.99
1 x Spektrum SR300 3 Channel DSM Sport Surface Receiver (SPMSR300) = $49.99
1 x Novak Havoc Pro SC Brushless ESC/Ballistic 550 Motor Combo (4.5T) (SC10 4x4) (NOV3119) = $239.99
1 x Team Associated 32P Spur Gear (60T) (ASC91095) = $3.69
1 x Team Associated 5mm Bore 32P Pinion Gear (13T) (ASC91164) = $9.25
1 x ProTek R/C 4.0mm "Super Bullet" Solid Gold Connectors (4 Male) (PTK-5035) = $4.49
1 x Western Robotics 6" Banana Plug (Black/Red) (2) (WRL-BNPLUG) = $1.89
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Green Slime (ASC1105) = $2.29
1 x Team Associated Factory Team 30mm Ti-Nitride Shock Shaft Set (2) (ASC91113) = $10.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team 26mm Ti-Nitride Front Shock Shaft Set (2) (ASC91112) = $10.99
I think the final thing that pushed me to the sc was that the AE is lighter and has quicker/more steering, two attributes I felt were much easier adjust out than to try to add back in. I.e. it's hard to drop 10oz of weight vs. adding some stick on lead or adding some custom metal skids.
Also even though the AE is harder to work on, it does look easy to swap out whole subsections, so I figure if I got real serious about racing this thing (i'm currently a noob) I would just buy a second kit an have pre-built front and rear sections ready to go.
Anyway here is the list of parts I ordered. I took advantage of Amain's free shipping and $75 off deal they have going on right now. I also picked up some red & black paint for the body, going to do all racing red with a black stripe down hood roof and bed, and back it all with black.
The LHS I went to for the paint didn't have anything but 30k diff oil in stock so I need to pick some up elsewhere, I'm thinking of doing 5k front and rear for starters (so i only have to buy one bottle) I would just leave it stock but I know they don't come filled all the way and don't think I'll end up running 3k at all.
1 x Team Associated SC10 4x4 1/10 Scale Electric 4WD Short Course Race Truck Kit (ASC90004) = $269.99
1 x Savox SC-1256TG Standard Digital "High Torque" Titanium Gear Servo (SAV-SC-1256TG) = $79.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Rear Swaybar Set (ASC91124) = $17.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Front Swaybar Set (ASC91123) = $16.99
1 x Team Associated 13mm Shock Bladder & Seal Set (4) (ASC91063) = $5.49
1 x Spektrum Voltage Protector (SPM1600) = $4.99
1 x ProTek R/C 2S "Supreme Power" Li-Poly 35C Hard Case Battery Pack (7.4V/5000mAh) (ROAR Approved) (PTK-LPH-5000-2S35-P) = $59.99
1 x Spektrum SR300 3 Channel DSM Sport Surface Receiver (SPMSR300) = $49.99
1 x Novak Havoc Pro SC Brushless ESC/Ballistic 550 Motor Combo (4.5T) (SC10 4x4) (NOV3119) = $239.99
1 x Team Associated 32P Spur Gear (60T) (ASC91095) = $3.69
1 x Team Associated 5mm Bore 32P Pinion Gear (13T) (ASC91164) = $9.25
1 x ProTek R/C 4.0mm "Super Bullet" Solid Gold Connectors (4 Male) (PTK-5035) = $4.49
1 x Western Robotics 6" Banana Plug (Black/Red) (2) (WRL-BNPLUG) = $1.89
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Green Slime (ASC1105) = $2.29
1 x Team Associated Factory Team 30mm Ti-Nitride Shock Shaft Set (2) (ASC91113) = $10.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team 26mm Ti-Nitride Front Shock Shaft Set (2) (ASC91112) = $10.99
Damn it's going to be a long 4 hours till I get off...
#9093
Tech Regular
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btw, a few months back I can see tons of sc10 4x's, now I'm the only one at the local tracks.
#9096
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It is easier to get it in/out if you loosen a couple of chassis screws, but other than that, no drama.
#9097
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#9099
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#9100
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Alright, I want to race this truck in 30 hours from now including two half days of work a few hours of sleep at least.
I think I'll start with the body so I can let each coat dry while doing the rest of the build and going a head and doing all my soldering as well so I can get the battery charging (and might as well do the esc while the iron is hot)
I do have the big novac motor so I need to be careful in which order I install it, but other than that any suggestions for a smoother build process other than the first page of the thread and the manual?
I think I'll start with the body so I can let each coat dry while doing the rest of the build and going a head and doing all my soldering as well so I can get the battery charging (and might as well do the esc while the iron is hot)
I do have the big novac motor so I need to be careful in which order I install it, but other than that any suggestions for a smoother build process other than the first page of the thread and the manual?
#9101
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Alright, I want to race this truck in 30 hours from now including two half days of work a few hours of sleep at least.
I think I'll start with the body so I can let each coat dry while doing the rest of the build and going a head and doing all my soldering as well so I can get the battery charging (and might as well do the esc while the iron is hot)
I do have the big novac motor so I need to be careful in which order I install it, but other than that any suggestions for a smoother build process other than the first page of the thread and the manual?
I think I'll start with the body so I can let each coat dry while doing the rest of the build and going a head and doing all my soldering as well so I can get the battery charging (and might as well do the esc while the iron is hot)
I do have the big novac motor so I need to be careful in which order I install it, but other than that any suggestions for a smoother build process other than the first page of the thread and the manual?
Make sure there is a mini fridge within arm's reach stocked with your favorite frosty beverage. All of your tools should be at hand; all of them.
2:
The ball ends are a BITCH to snap onto the balls. Use a large pair of smooth duckbill pliers and they snap right on; don't EVER try to get them off.
3:
As outlined on the first page, pay special attention to the preassembled shocks and diffs. As a general rule, don't EVER trust something that's already assembled.
4:
Make sure you already have the HD slipper pads AE sells. Don't ever bother with the stock slipper pads. Use those as spares if you have 2w AE cars.
5:
There's a screw that goes into the center/rear of the front skidplate/bumper doodad. Make DAMN sure you put the proper size screw in there, or you will scratch your head wondering why your steering binds.
6:
TAKE YOUR TIME assembling/setting up the servo. Trust ThunderbirdJunkie on this.
#9102
Tech Regular
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2:
The ball ends are a BITCH to snap onto the balls. Use a large pair of smooth duckbill pliers and they snap right on; don't EVER try to get them off.
True, if you look at both sides of the ball end you will see one side has a bigger hole to snap the ball into.
The ball ends are a BITCH to snap onto the balls. Use a large pair of smooth duckbill pliers and they snap right on; don't EVER try to get them off.
True, if you look at both sides of the ball end you will see one side has a bigger hole to snap the ball into.
#9104
Tech Master
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Yes, they are. When the Slash first came out, one of our local factory drivers decided he wanted to try 2wd SC. He borrowed a stock Slash, and won the A main by over a lap against guys running heavily modified Slashes with LCG chassis, 1/8 tires, BL motors, etc.. And the guys he was racing are NOT slow, most of them A or B main Pro or Expert drivers at ROAR Regionals, RC Pro National races, etc. Some people have talent for RC, just like everything else.
#9105
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Yes, they are. When the Slash first came out, one of our local factory drivers decided he wanted to try 2wd SC. He borrowed a stock Slash, and won the A main by over a lap against guys running heavily modified Slashes with LCG chassis, 1/8 tires, BL motors, etc.. And the guys he was racing are NOT slow, most of them A or B main Pro or Expert drivers at ROAR Regionals, RC Pro National races, etc. Some people have talent for RC, just like everything else.
The local fast guy (who is usually 1/2 second faster per lap with his Losi than me with my pre-pinned SC10) ran some laps immediately after our last main in my rig, a second a lap slower than my off the pace. IMO I had adapted to driving my downright evil handling chassis better than he had, but I still wasn't as fast as his was with his better sorted truck.