Botwoon

If I'm thinking of the right thing, all they're doing is flipping it around and grinding material out of the brace to make it fit.

JayL

and lighter front

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

This brings up a good discussion, since we have been running 30 to tame the front down. it definately needs more steering now i had to remove half of the front RC shims already and will probably go to zero. so maybe 10/5??? actually the more i think about it i may go down in the front before i go down in the rear.

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

.8-1.0/sec a lap faster and easier to drive, eh?

IMO screw corner exit rotation and just wheel it for a while to develop a baseline before you make any more changes. Then change one thing at a time.

Eat some of this Thunderbird Junkie, you quitter.

I disagree. How is lighter front fluid going to make it rotate better center off? Maybe if we were talking on entry, but not on exit.

SourDieselX

iTrader: (9)

The UPS man just dropped off a little addition for my new truck, Tekin Pro4 4600kv, feels like Christmas, lol

JayL

Normally I would agree with you but IMO we have gone over the edge on thick front and going from 30k to 10k wont act the same way as going from 7k to 5k

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

it will not make it rotate better but should give more steering all around. im going to drop the front dif fluid to 10k and see what happens.

i agree with you Jay i think 30/7 is a HUGE jump in fluids and we all did this to settle down the front. well now the front is settled, i think we can go back to normal viscosity's.

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

Am I the only one here who's ever driven a sedan with a one way, then the same chassis with a spool?

1Fastpede

iTrader: (53)

5/5 ?

BlueGlowBoy

iTrader: (2)

I tried this today only with the HT pad as I JUST ordered my garodiscs, and though I'm sure it's not as good as pinning the shaft would be, it did provide similar results to what MantisWorx is describing. I feel like my truck drives much more like my rally car and my touring car when they are sliding in the loose stuff. (they both have full time 4wd, no center diff, no slipper) The truck as MUCH less tendency to snap around. I feel like I can hit the brakes harder and it feels like it has more punch coming out of the corners. My apex speed is DEFINATELY faster as I can come into the corner with a little bit more confidence that the truck is going to stay pointed where I tell it to.

Craig...never said it would be the SAME or AS GOOD but for those of us that don't have access to drill presses to make a pinned shaft, it does provide a similar enhancement to how the truck performs with a pinned shaft. Though I am no expert at science, machining, or driving, putting the higher torque pad on the front wheels and the lower torque pad for the rears did certainly help make the truck more predictable.

I'll keep my eyes on here and the FS section to see if anyone starts selling a top shaft / pin / inner hub combo as I don't have access to the appropriate tools to do it myself.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

havent driven a one way in decades but i know that going to a spool from a ball diff gives crappy braking and hard turn in unless you have super light rear dif fluid. the advantage is that on power steering is awesome and in general easier to drive but on offroad crappy braking and dificult turn in nets slower laptimes and lack of confidence. you dont "pitch" a TC so its not apples to apples. as the truck is right now it is much better but if i turn in tight to either pass or miss my mark it pushes out to the wall unless i slow down enough to line it up, i cant drive fast or consistent like that so i have to find a happy medium at least. it seems that with the pinning we are back at ground zero with setups and cant overlook anything. to my understanding the heavy dif fluid and 4mm RC shims was to slow down the steering. today i dropped the shims down to 2mm and it felt much better. so i think i am going to remove them all and drop front fluid to see what happens, may work may not but someone has to try it

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

Anything is better than a poke in the eye.

I accidentally destroyed a rear set of Jconcepts Subcultures doing drag race type standing starts on my concrete driveway testing slipper combos (before I pinned the front diff). I had a HD pad in the front and two standard pads in the bucket at the time, but the result was the same no matter what combo I used. You'd punch it and it would pull the front wheels off the ground. If you loosened it enough where it wouldn't get wheels up, it would slip all the time, so bad you just killed the power; and as a result, it would glaze the pads AND get itself so hot you couldn't hardly touch the slipper cover.

What that means is when it was decoupled, it would put power to the axle that was slipping, and if you gave it MORE power it just slipped that axle worse. The same thing happens under braking. Frankly, the more I think about it, the more I can't figure out how to regulate the torque via a clutch manually, other than add a center diff.

BTW, I drilled my hole in the shaft with a mill, but I did it mostly because I had it handy by. In a pinch I could drill it with a hand drill and a couple of blocks of wood and do the same thing. It doesn't have to be dead center.

1Fastpede

iTrader: (53)

I drilled mine still assembled to the truck with a regular dewalt.

Divey

iTrader: (119)

Can someone explain to me how to weigh the truck for balance from side to side and front to back without a scale. I have moved the battery over on the motor side due to fitment issues and now it's a little heavier on that side. I just got some losi stick weights today but I am unsure how to weigh it. Anyone have any ideas.

Terry

1Fastpede

iTrader: (53)

what are you speaking of when you say "rc shims"?