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Old 10-10-2011, 01:02 PM
  #8356  
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Originally Posted by Vegatron75
My rear arms look ok. Some De or the wide Jconcepts wheels would be good. Spares, servo saver assy, spur gears, maybe the steering uprights. Not many spares needed. I've run my truck w/ very little problem.

I'd get the rcshox slipper pads and or the MTK clutch basket as well.
I haven't measured them to check the difference or if they meet ROAR specifications, but I have been using wheels for a Slash, Ultima SC to widen the stance.
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jpure009
Is AE coming out with the 2nd pic of the Top shaft with pin hole & inner slipper hub, with the indent for the pin.....That 2nd picture, looks like it mite solve all the problems, people are having....NICE JOB!!!
I said this before, i bought 2packs of Slipper Hardware, and used the thrust washer that was machined the widest...The widest was .27mm wider then the smallest of the 3 thrust washers i have.....So with that and HD pads in&out it worked well for me. I'm hoping the RCSHOX Dual slipper will make it even better!!....I can still use alil more burst from the slipper on the CLAY track i run on....

In the 3rd pic, what is the a-arm on the RIGHT bent???

thx
All credit to the fastpede! Not sure if AE will make this or not. Heck I'm not sure if I'll like it or not. I guess if I don't I'll take the pin out and go back to normal.

I'm using the rcshox pads and haven't had any problems, haven't noticed any fade and haven't sanded them at all. Probably 5-6 race days or nights on them so far. They work well and are much better than the Ft pads.

Both of those arms are bent, pretty badly. The pic makes it hard to tell whats what. The front edge of the arms are pretty straight. The back edge is where all the bend is. I think the bend is equivalent to adding castor?
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:36 PM
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[QUOTE]
Originally Posted by Vegatron75
All credit to the fastpede! Not sure if AE will make this or not. Heck I'm not sure if I'll like it or not. I guess if I don't I'll take the pin out and go back to normal.
Very good idea, and the transition back to NO PIN, would be seem less, or would u need a new inner hub.?. Since u altered it to fit the PIN??

I'm using the rcshox pads and haven't had any problems, haven't noticed any fade and haven't sanded them at all. Probably 5-6 race days or nights on them so far. They work well and are much better than the Ft pads.
Cool, i was wondering how long they last....I am going to use them this week.

Both of those arms are bent, pretty badly. The pic makes it hard to tell whats what. The front edge of the arms are pretty straight. The back edge is where all the bend is. I think the bend is equivalent to adding castor?
Yes, they look alil bent in the back, but it would be hard to tell while still on the car, I would think?


thx
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:44 PM
  #8359  
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Originally Posted by [LEFT
Vegatron[/left]75;9763534]Here's some pics of my "pinning". I chewed up the pulley a little more than is needed. Pics should explain. Used a pretty beefy pin from my
rc
8, had to trim it down it fit within the square in the pulley.

We'll see how it works
wednesday
. Also a pic of my bent a-arms.
So with this set up you have eliminated the un-coupled slipper right?
I thought you just wanted to lock up the front drive? If this is the intention just pin the spur to the inboard hub.....

Last edited by Slotmachine; 10-10-2011 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cjtamu
The more things change, the more they stay the same LOL. Don't remember who said it, but that "pinned" slipper looks just like the assembly on the 2's, 3's, and RC10GT. Truck got here today. Looking forward to trying out this ORCA speedo, first time I've ever seen one in person.

On the A-arms, is it just the fronts that warp? Got gift certificates for my bday that I didnt' use buying the truck, so looks like some wheels, tires, and spare parts are in order.
From what I have seen on my truck the stock arms do get bent quickly. I would try the RPM. arms as a replacement.
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...c/SC_Prts3.htm
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:57 PM
  #8361  
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
So with this set up you have eliminated the
un
-coupled slipper right?
I thought you just wanted to lock up the front drive? If this is the intention just pin the spur to the
inboard
hub.....
The modification recouples the decoupled slipper, ergo whatever slip you have in the rear will be the exact same in the front.
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Old 10-10-2011, 02:30 PM
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If you want to lock up the diff just replace the pads with rubber...
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Old 10-10-2011, 02:42 PM
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I put one regular yellow slipper pad on the inside and two ht pads in the basket and my truck is twitchy as hell like its a nervous wreck lol super darty, can anyone explain it, i'm going to change it but just wondering so I can understand it more. Also would bent front arms make it darty or nervous also?
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Old 10-10-2011, 02:45 PM
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anyone tried one-way bearings instead of the clicker?
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Old 10-10-2011, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
If you want to lock up the diff just replace the pads with rubber...
I don't want to lock up the diff. I don't want to lock up the slipper either.

The way the decoupled slipper works, it puts more power to the axle that has the most load on it (the rear under power and the front under braking), and it makes that end slip the most. In theory it would allow for better grip,
but in reality I want the truck to stop pulling wheelies when I gas it. And I want it to stop getting nervous and wanting to swap ends when I hit the brakes.

That requires that you un-decouple the slipper, so you get two (or if your are using the basket, three) discs dedicated to slipping the whole drive train as a unit rather than some unknown random percentage being split between the front and rear that you can't control. This fixes the wheelie problem, and makes the truck more stable when you get off the power.

It's your truck, do what you want with it. Just because you don't perceive that the problem exists, or you perceive that you aren't effected by that problem, does not mean you don't have it and it's not real.

It's not like if you don't like it coupled you can't pull out the roll pin and go back to the way it was before....
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Old 10-10-2011, 03:00 PM
  #8366  
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Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
I'm going to post a step by step later today.

Also another modification courtesy of kinwald.

A couple of must do's that change the truck into a beast

If i could just buy some more skill and an anti losi rear bumper i'd be great
Are the directions up yet?
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Old 10-10-2011, 03:07 PM
  #8367  
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Originally Posted by Er8sr
Are the directions up yet?
1. Remove shaft from transmission.
2. Reassemble shaft with slipper so you can locate the roll pin.
3. Drill hole through slipper back plate and shaft.
4. Disassemble and debur.
5. Reassamble transmission.
6. ??????
7. Profit!
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Old 10-10-2011, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
1. Remove shaft from transmission.
2. Reassemble shaft with slipper so you can locate the roll pin.
3. Drill hole through slipper back plate and shaft.
4. Disassemble and debur.
5. Reassamble transmission.
6. ??????
7. Profit!
Shoe on head!
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Old 10-10-2011, 03:19 PM
  #8369  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
1. Remove shaft from transmission.
2. Reassemble shaft with slipper so you can locate the roll pin.
3. Drill hole through slipper back plate and shaft.
4. Disassemble and debur.
5. Reassamble transmission.
6. ??????
7. Profit!
What is good to use for a pin?
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Old 10-10-2011, 04:13 PM
  #8370  
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so if you want the slipper to only work on the rear you must pin the rear housing to the spur gear right?
and Craig you are right, the wheelies get old!
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