Wild Cherry

Not bad , brace looks good ....

kevink123

iTrader: (16)

ok so I searched the thread and couldn't find a good answer, what is the correct tension on the belt supposed to be. I have it at 4 and 4 and when I push the truck with the pinion off it rolls about 5 feet. I tightened it because when I braked hard it would skip. So is it time for a new belt? this issue comes from having heat issues and I think this could be the cause of it because i've checked everything else. Also is it bad to run the front and back the same hole or should I move the back to number 3 hole and try that. How much slip is to much it made a pretty harsh noise. I run the clicker open btw.

Djioul

Hi gents,

What type of battery are you using, 2S or 3S?

I've been told that the weigth of this car request very strong 2S pack, at least 40C if not more, any feedbacks from you, users/racers?

twigman08

2S. Though I do always suggest a high c rated battery, it is the Losi that relies on a high c rated battery the most due to its weight.

Djioul

What's the weigth difference with the Losi?
Around 300g no?

Scottmisfits

iTrader: (7)

The manual says to set it with about 1/8" deflection in the belts. It also says, right in the manual, that clicking under braking is normal. It is the belt skipping. If you have it rolling 5' without power, it's pretty free so if you're having heat issues, play with motor timing and ESC settings.

The Rev

iTrader: (3)

I put a 2650 tekin in mine. had to dremel the rear pod. the motor can only move a few mm due to the size so you will be severely limited in gear choices.
i'm running a 58/20 if i remember right, and it is fast on 2s on large tracks. gearing up is not an option, but i could gear down for smaller tracks if needed.

motor is not stressed so stays very cool.

1Fastpede

iTrader: (53)

4/4 is fine as long as you are talking about the correct spot (see picture)

also lower your brake percentage. even though your lowering your brake if you lower it enough to where it wont skip you'll stop faster. mine wants to endo at times. with brake at 35%

Other areas that drag are wheel hexes.( you can tell by looking at outer bearing seal)

GuiltyByAssoc

iTrader: (6)

Got my rear at 3 and front at 4. No skipping after 2 track days.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

my version of a brace....two middle holes are stock with a slightly longer screw, the two outer where just made with a body reamer, and a "flat" washer was put on the inside of the tunnel to hold the screw tight. eliminates alot of the flex, but still leaves alittle due to the carbon strip not being as wide and is only 1.5mm thick.

nice thing is with 8 screws the whole battery side tunnel comes off in one piece

i think if associated made the tunnel on battery side one piece it would fix alot of these "issues"

Farmer_John

iTrader: (3)

I know this may cause disagreement, but these chassis are supposed to have flex and not just torsional. It improves traction...traction is good.

BLbound

iTrader: (27)

I just might have to make one like this...thanks for the pic!

kevink123

iTrader: (16)

ok I had it backwards going by that diagram i'm on 2 and 2. I have my brake at full, so back it down to 50 and try it? will this reduce heat as well. I already replaced all the hexes with the FT aluminum ones because it was dragging there but I thought I read somewhere in here you want it to coast about 15' and if i'm gonna try it a touch looser I should move the back one up to the 3 hole then first correct.

Thanks for the help. I'm using a lrp tc v2 and a lrp x12 6.5 540 can with a HT 13mm rotor. using the 4dot so no timing in the motor and no timing in the esc and it is getting super hot like 200.. and I know people have run these cooler so its gotta be something binding causing more friction and I have checked just about everything else. Also with the pinion off you should be able to turn the spur pretty easily correct like verrry verry little resistance like a 2wd? I am running the clutch basket as well.

BLbound

iTrader: (27)

Very true to a point. It depends on the track that your running on. As for me I mainly run on high bite clay indoor tracks. Running a stiffer chassis on these tracks will be more beneficial than to have the chassis flexing & giving me more traction than needed. In a earlier post I said I thought it would be cool if someone made an aluminum center section chassis piece...giving a little more weight to the truck & a little more rigidity to the overall chassis. For now I have spare graphite lying around & I will make a belt tunnel brace to give it a try. The good thing is that it's easy enough to take if off if needed.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

soooo true, 4 screws to take it off, then just put the 2 center factory screws back in , only downside with my design is you have two 4-40 holes to let dirt in the tunnel if you remove it :P....but can easily use something every rc'er has in their toolbox.... SHOEGOO...to cover the holes