5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
09-11-2011, 08:49 PM
#7456
Hey I'm new to the thread, anyone use 1/8th scale motors in these?
09-11-2011, 08:59 PM
#7457
the adjustments you are trying will do very little to help control roll.
Next time ?
Try lowering the rear ride height when the traction comes up ....
how much ?
about 2 m
09-11-2011, 09:23 PM
#7458
Hey everyone, been searching on this thread for a few days now and haven't found an answer to an issue I've been having, I don't know a lot about tuning, etc so I figured I'd ask on here and maybe get an answer or some suggestions on what to try... the track is just a small backyard dirt track, mostly dry and loose/dusty, the issue I'm having is the rear of the truck constantly wants to spinout, it doesn't matter if it's on a corner, straight away or start, the rear just wants to come around.
My SC10 4x4 has 5000wt diff oil f/r, high torque slipper pad, slipper tightened, 30wt front, 25wt rear, rest basically stock.. running an rx8 w/ a sc4x 5.5, gearing is 15/62, temps only about 110-120, running snipers all around and tried calibers all around, along with mixing/matching them etc..
So far I've tried sway-bars, different springs, overdrive front gear, etc.. I know I can go up on pinion but going faster just makes this worse so I was hoping to fix the issue before trying to go faster, and I am hoping to try a thicker diff oil in the front next week but 5k is the highest I have on hand.
Soo yeah.. if anyone has any ideas, suggestions or anything about why the rear wants to come around it'd be greatly appreciated.
My SC10 4x4 has 5000wt diff oil f/r, high torque slipper pad, slipper tightened, 30wt front, 25wt rear, rest basically stock.. running an rx8 w/ a sc4x 5.5, gearing is 15/62, temps only about 110-120, running snipers all around and tried calibers all around, along with mixing/matching them etc..
So far I've tried sway-bars, different springs, overdrive front gear, etc.. I know I can go up on pinion but going faster just makes this worse so I was hoping to fix the issue before trying to go faster, and I am hoping to try a thicker diff oil in the front next week but 5k is the highest I have on hand.
Soo yeah.. if anyone has any ideas, suggestions or anything about why the rear wants to come around it'd be greatly appreciated.
09-11-2011, 09:39 PM
#7459
For some reason the Ryan Cavalieri setup will not load for westcoast rc and ocrc, so does anybody know what oils he was running in his diffs? And what swaybar was he using? And i know people are adding weight to their trucks, where are you guys putting the weights at?
09-11-2011, 09:47 PM
#7460
I double checked that and every other part, nothing on the truck binds as far as I can tell, I followed the instructions closely along with reading every tip on here while building, the whole truck itself is butter smooth and has no binding anywhere.
09-11-2011, 10:43 PM
#7461
I'm glad someone actually did go to this effort...now all you have to do is find the stock wheels for your truck, then match the "backspace" (as they like to call it) or if you want to go 1-2mm wider, you can find a rim with less backspace, or if you want to go 1-2mm more narrow (to fit under a different body, I guess) you could use a rim with more backspace...
Keeping this related to the SC104x4, the stock wheels apparently have a backspacing of 32mm.... with the truck already being 293mm wide (according to RC10.com), and ROAR (and therefore any track/event that would actually tech width) limits you to 296mm, there isn't any wheel that you can run right at the legal limit with. (Jconcepts Hazards are not listed yet.)
If you want to go WAY wider than the legal limits, and probably help your truck feel more planted around the corners, there are wheels with 22mm backspacing, which would make the truck 313mm wide! Just bear in mind that will put the tire partway outside the fender, and landing off a big jump, you run the risk of cutting your tire with your body....
Keeping this related to the SC104x4, the stock wheels apparently have a backspacing of 32mm.... with the truck already being 293mm wide (according to RC10.com), and ROAR (and therefore any track/event that would actually tech width) limits you to 296mm, there isn't any wheel that you can run right at the legal limit with. (Jconcepts Hazards are not listed yet.)
If you want to go WAY wider than the legal limits, and probably help your truck feel more planted around the corners, there are wheels with 22mm backspacing, which would make the truck 313mm wide! Just bear in mind that will put the tire partway outside the fender, and landing off a big jump, you run the risk of cutting your tire with your body....
Its about time someone got smart about it. This should be in the main off road section for everyone to use. You know in 48 hours it will be buried 25 pages back.
09-11-2011, 10:46 PM
#7462
For some reason the Ryan Cavalieri setup will not load for westcoast rc and ocrc, so does anybody know what oils he was running in his diffs? And what swaybar was he using? And i know people are adding weight to their trucks, where are you guys putting the weights at?
09-12-2011, 06:43 AM
#7463
HELP MY REAR TRANNY HAS ISSUES
Ok so I was getting a skipping sound and of course thought it was the belt skipping and apon inspection I noticed my tensioner pulleys were really loose on the bearings so i replaced them with aluminum ones and new bearings and a new belt and its still skipping . so ive removed the belt again and put it back together with out front wheel drive hooked up to isolate where the noise is coming from . and of course It still makes the noise in rear wheel drive only . So I took the tranny out again and looked it over and I just cant figure out what could be causing the skipping i dont see any teeth ruined on any of the gears .I noticed the idler shaft moves ever so slightly on the bearings and the top shaft also moves ever so slightly on the bearings . it doesnt look like its too much play but I dont know what else to look at . Im almost tempted to buy the HOTRACING.COM aluminum diff and idler gear and new tranny bearings but im not sure if its a good idea to have all that aluminum in the tranny like that . PLEASE HELP ME OUT WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK
09-12-2011, 07:31 AM
#7464
Ok so I was getting a skipping sound and of course thought it was the belt skipping and apon inspection I noticed my tensioner pulleys were really loose on the bearings so i replaced them with aluminum ones and new bearings and a new belt and its still skipping . so ive removed the belt again and put it back together with out front wheel drive hooked up to isolate where the noise is coming from . and of course It still makes the noise in rear wheel drive only . So I took the tranny out again and looked it over and I just cant figure out what could be causing the skipping i dont see any teeth ruined on any of the gears .I noticed the idler shaft moves ever so slightly on the bearings and the top shaft also moves ever so slightly on the bearings . it doesnt look like its too much play but I dont know what else to look at . Im almost tempted to buy the HOTRACING.COM aluminum diff and idler gear and new tranny bearings but im not sure if its a good idea to have all that aluminum in the tranny like that . PLEASE HELP ME OUT WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK
To help fix this I have found that the shimming of the outdrive in the diff case to be slightly loose, meaning an extra washer can be added to the inside of the diff which reduces the outdrive wobble. The washer can be added without any extra bind like in the old sc10 diffs.
Also it should be noted that uptravel needs to be set on this car also. Especially if your running without shock boots. What you will notice is that if you fully compress your shocks the CVA's with hit the outdrive before the suspension is fully compressed. This puts added strain on the diff outdrives wearing the inner washer in the diff out quicker.
09-12-2011, 07:34 AM
#7465
I have been asking around for a month now trying to find out what the backspacing of the rs/4x4 wheels for a month now. No matter where i ask it just gets ignored.
Almost 20 pages and almost 300 posts after and not a single comment, let alone answer. Its time for some sub forums around here.
Its about time someone got smart about it. This should be in the main off road section for everyone to use. You know in 48 hours it will be buried 25 pages back.
Almost 20 pages and almost 300 posts after and not a single comment, let alone answer. Its time for some sub forums around here.
Its about time someone got smart about it. This should be in the main off road section for everyone to use. You know in 48 hours it will be buried 25 pages back.
B: the stock RS/4x4 rims are on nitrohouse's website. There is your answer.
09-12-2011, 07:36 AM
#7466
Seen some pics of someone throwing one in there back around page 20 or 25 of this thread. Don't bother....you only get to pick one gear ratio as there is no room to slide the motor back and forth to mesh.
If you really feel the need for ballistic power, get a 4-pole 550... just know that it will be too much power for most tracks. Hella fun for bashing though.
If you really feel the need for ballistic power, get a 4-pole 550... just know that it will be too much power for most tracks. Hella fun for bashing though.
09-12-2011, 08:07 AM
#7467
Seen some pics of someone throwing one in there back around page 20 or 25 of this thread. Don't bother....you only get to pick one gear ratio as there is no room to slide the motor back and forth to mesh.
If you really feel the need for ballistic power, get a 4-pole 550... just know that it will be too much power for most tracks. Hella fun for bashing though.
If you really feel the need for ballistic power, get a 4-pole 550... just know that it will be too much power for most tracks. Hella fun for bashing though.
09-12-2011, 08:23 AM
#7468
Hey everyone, been searching on this thread for a few days now and haven't found an answer to an issue I've been having, I don't know a lot about tuning, etc so I figured I'd ask on here and maybe get an answer or some suggestions on what to try... the track is just a small backyard dirt track, mostly dry and loose/dusty, the issue I'm having is the rear of the truck constantly wants to spinout, it doesn't matter if it's on a corner, straight away or start, the rear just wants to come around.
My SC10 4x4 has 5000wt diff oil f/r, high torque slipper pad, slipper tightened, 30wt front, 25wt rear, rest basically stock.. running an rx8 w/ a sc4x 5.5, gearing is 15/62, temps only about 110-120, running snipers all around and tried calibers all around, along with mixing/matching them etc..
So far I've tried swaybars, different springs, overdrive front gear, etc.. I know I can go up on pinion but going faster just makes this worse so I was hoping to fix the issue before trying to go faster, and I am hoping to try a thicker diff oil in the front next week but 5k is the highest I have on hand.
Soo yeah.. if anyone has any ideas, suggestions or anything about why the rear wants to come around it'd be greatly appreciated.
My SC10 4x4 has 5000wt diff oil f/r, high torque slipper pad, slipper tightened, 30wt front, 25wt rear, rest basically stock.. running an rx8 w/ a sc4x 5.5, gearing is 15/62, temps only about 110-120, running snipers all around and tried calibers all around, along with mixing/matching them etc..
So far I've tried swaybars, different springs, overdrive front gear, etc.. I know I can go up on pinion but going faster just makes this worse so I was hoping to fix the issue before trying to go faster, and I am hoping to try a thicker diff oil in the front next week but 5k is the highest I have on hand.
Soo yeah.. if anyone has any ideas, suggestions or anything about why the rear wants to come around it'd be greatly appreciated.
rear end comes around because the truck turn too much. put 30,000 to 60,000 in front. even 2.2 sway bar.
