SC10 4x4 Thread
#7081
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
and i bought the ae truck to see whats better.
#7082
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![weird](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/weird.gif)
#7083
Tech Regular
iTrader: (33)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think it's still split on who actually races with saddle. It's been said the truck is better with saddle but I think people are waiting for an actual conversion from AE. If I had the patience I would switch to saddle just to get that much better of a handling truck. What ever I can do to be faster without practice. LOL.
#7084
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I made the switch to saddles. I was winning at the club level w/o them, so it surely can be done w/ the stick.
With the stick pack the truck is pretty heavy on the battery side, to get it balanced, depending on what motor and esc you run, you'll need to ad close to 5oz to the motor side. Don't quote me on the 5oz, my bud added around that.
My truck, w/ the esc opposite the radio box and a 540 motor, is almost balanced w/o any extra weight. I think that's the advantage to the saddles, less dead weight, plus you can shift the weight forward a ton.
I had to move my packs back because it gained a ton of steering and got lite on traction. I probably could have fixed that w/ other things, but it's easier to mount them the way I have them now.
I'm running my saddles side x side and as far back as the center brace will let me.
Raced it last night, tq'ed and won, got passed by a Durango, but he broke.
Still looking to add the MTK clutch basket and the rcshox shock pistons, after that I should be set.........
With the stick pack the truck is pretty heavy on the battery side, to get it balanced, depending on what motor and esc you run, you'll need to ad close to 5oz to the motor side. Don't quote me on the 5oz, my bud added around that.
My truck, w/ the esc opposite the radio box and a 540 motor, is almost balanced w/o any extra weight. I think that's the advantage to the saddles, less dead weight, plus you can shift the weight forward a ton.
I had to move my packs back because it gained a ton of steering and got lite on traction. I probably could have fixed that w/ other things, but it's easier to mount them the way I have them now.
I'm running my saddles side x side and as far back as the center brace will let me.
Raced it last night, tq'ed and won, got passed by a Durango, but he broke.
Still looking to add the MTK clutch basket and the rcshox shock pistons, after that I should be set.........
Last edited by Vegatron75; 09-01-2011 at 05:20 PM.
#7086
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am going to be a rebel and stick with the regular pack set up. I have balance checked my truck and with 1oz on the outer nerf bar I have a balanced chassis. The farther out the weight the less you need to off-set the battery. I am also running a 540 motor and RS Pro speedo. I did add a fan and move the receiver box foward and the speed control back but it drives good for me.
#7087
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i have a durango with a rx8 and castle 4 pole 3800 in it.
what ever one liking for the sc10?
what ever one liking for the sc10?
#7088
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am going to be a rebel and stick with the regular pack set up. I have balance checked my truck and with 1oz on the outer nerf bar I have a balanced chassis. The farther out the weight the less you need to off-set the battery. I am also running a 540 motor and RS Pro speedo. I did add a fan and move the receiver box foward and the speed control back but it drives good for me.
#7090
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am going to be a rebel and stick with the regular pack set up. I have balance checked my truck and with 1oz on the outer nerf bar I have a balanced chassis. The farther out the weight the less you need to off-set the battery. I am also running a 540 motor and RS Pro speedo. I did add a fan and move the receiver box foward and the speed control back but it drives good for me.
#7093
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Any of you guys that have bought the spring packs.....
Do the springs fit the shocks better than the stock ones?
Mine rub the shock bodies quite a bit, more so on the rears.
I'll spend the money on the packs if the 'blues' will work as they should and try the yellow fronts. If the blues are the same as the stockers, then I'll just buy the yellow fronts.
Seems like the spring supplier dropped the ball on this truck. slipper spring,servo saver spring and the shock springs.
Do the springs fit the shocks better than the stock ones?
Mine rub the shock bodies quite a bit, more so on the rears.
I'll spend the money on the packs if the 'blues' will work as they should and try the yellow fronts. If the blues are the same as the stockers, then I'll just buy the yellow fronts.
Seems like the spring supplier dropped the ball on this truck. slipper spring,servo saver spring and the shock springs.
#7095
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Any of you guys that have bought the spring packs.....
Do the springs fit the shocks better than the stock ones?
Mine rub the shock bodies quite a bit, more so on the rears.
Seems like the spring supplier dropped the ball on this truck. slipper spring,servo saver spring and the shock springs.
Do the springs fit the shocks better than the stock ones?
Mine rub the shock bodies quite a bit, more so on the rears.
Seems like the spring supplier dropped the ball on this truck. slipper spring,servo saver spring and the shock springs.
I took a dremel to the shock body and left about 1/4" of flat to cure this.