SC10 4x4 Thread
#6601
#6607
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Need help gearing 550 lrp x12l 5.5 motor is running extremely hot
#6609
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SC104x4 is getting better. It's ALMOST dialed. It's fast through the fast corners, but the ass end washes out too easily in the technical stuff. Drove a buddy's SC10 4x4 tonight to see where the truck was stock, and it's SO much better than it was stock it's not even funny. This truck is going to be money once it's dialed in. So money. Right now it'd tear shit up indoors on high grip...just need to get the outdoor setup finalized so ThunderbirdJunkie can kick everybody's ass all year next year.
Everywhere but tight corners the truck works well. It's stable (as long as you're on the throttle) in the longer sweepers, but it tends to step out and get touchy in tighter stuff. Everybody says "unscrew the rear shock rod ends", but there's got to be another way. Not putting swaybars on it until it's dialed, either. Period. They're in the box...not gonna happen. ThunderbirdJunkie also thinks it needs 40 or 42.5wt oil in the shocks. Saddle packs are *almost* all the way back, with the RX8 and Futaba Rx mounted up front.
Anyway...the truck is stupid fast, and it steers like an MFer. Just need to get the rear settled down. Maybe a longer rear camber link? Change the roll center in the rear? ThunderbirdJunkie's so close. The truck is going to kick ass next week. He can feel it.
Here's the setup sheet.
Everywhere but tight corners the truck works well. It's stable (as long as you're on the throttle) in the longer sweepers, but it tends to step out and get touchy in tighter stuff. Everybody says "unscrew the rear shock rod ends", but there's got to be another way. Not putting swaybars on it until it's dialed, either. Period. They're in the box...not gonna happen. ThunderbirdJunkie also thinks it needs 40 or 42.5wt oil in the shocks. Saddle packs are *almost* all the way back, with the RX8 and Futaba Rx mounted up front.
Anyway...the truck is stupid fast, and it steers like an MFer. Just need to get the rear settled down. Maybe a longer rear camber link? Change the roll center in the rear? ThunderbirdJunkie's so close. The truck is going to kick ass next week. He can feel it.
Here's the setup sheet.
![](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b391/ThunderbirdJunkie/SC10%204x4/SC104X4EditableSetupSheet8102011.jpg)
#6610
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[QUOTE=T-BirdJunkie;9549345]SC104x4 is getting better. It's ALMOST dialed. It's fast through the fast corners, but the ass end washes out too easily in the technical stuff. Drove a buddy's SC10 4x4 tonight to see where the truck was stock, and it's SO much better than it was stock it's not even funny. This truck is going to be money once it's dialed in. So money. Right now it'd tear shit up indoors on high grip...just need to get the outdoor setup finalized so ThunderbirdJunkie can kick everybody's ass all year next year.
Everywhere but tight corners the truck works well. It's stable (as long as you're on the throttle) in the longer sweepers, but it tends to step out and get touchy in tighter stuff. Everybody says "unscrew the rear shock rod ends", but there's got to be another way. Not putting swaybars on it until it's dialed, either. Period. They're in the box...not gonna happen. ThunderbirdJunkie also thinks it needs 40 or 42.5wt oil in the shocks. Saddle packs are *almost* all the way back, with the RX8 and Futaba Rx mounted up front.
Anyway...the truck is stupid fast, and it steers like an MFer. Just need to get the rear settled down. Maybe a longer rear camber link? Change the roll center in the rear? ThunderbirdJunkie's so close. The truck is going to kick ass next week. He can feel it.
Here's the setup sheet.
Where are you going the heavier shock oil ? Front or rear ? I have my shocks apart at the moment and am willing to try something else , 27.5 to 40 seems pretty drastic so I am guessing its just rear ?
cheers.
Everywhere but tight corners the truck works well. It's stable (as long as you're on the throttle) in the longer sweepers, but it tends to step out and get touchy in tighter stuff. Everybody says "unscrew the rear shock rod ends", but there's got to be another way. Not putting swaybars on it until it's dialed, either. Period. They're in the box...not gonna happen. ThunderbirdJunkie also thinks it needs 40 or 42.5wt oil in the shocks. Saddle packs are *almost* all the way back, with the RX8 and Futaba Rx mounted up front.
Anyway...the truck is stupid fast, and it steers like an MFer. Just need to get the rear settled down. Maybe a longer rear camber link? Change the roll center in the rear? ThunderbirdJunkie's so close. The truck is going to kick ass next week. He can feel it.
Here's the setup sheet.
Where are you going the heavier shock oil ? Front or rear ? I have my shocks apart at the moment and am willing to try something else , 27.5 to 40 seems pretty drastic so I am guessing its just rear ?
cheers.
#6611
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hey T-bird.
if you find your trucks rear end a little loose in the techincal parts of your track.
try a lower wt oil in the rear end ( front and rear stock pistons ) and put a swaybar upfront
and keep the yellow spring
when you go higher up in wt for your shock oil, you tend to lose grip
no need to bring down the roll center
on what surface do you ride your truck and with which tyres ?
I see you drive the clicker. I also use the clicker and my truck is dialed. sometimes the rear gets a little loose but that is due to track-conditions changeing during the day and tyre wear
my rear slides 9 out of 10 times 100% controlable
if you find your trucks rear end a little loose in the techincal parts of your track.
try a lower wt oil in the rear end ( front and rear stock pistons ) and put a swaybar upfront
and keep the yellow spring
when you go higher up in wt for your shock oil, you tend to lose grip
no need to bring down the roll center
on what surface do you ride your truck and with which tyres ?
I see you drive the clicker. I also use the clicker and my truck is dialed. sometimes the rear gets a little loose but that is due to track-conditions changeing during the day and tyre wear
my rear slides 9 out of 10 times 100% controlable
#6612
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hey T-bird.
if you find your trucks rear end a little loose in the techincal parts of your track.
try a lower wt oil in the rear end ( front and rear stock pistons ) and put a swaybar upfront
and keep the yellow spring
no need to bring down the roll center
on what surface do you ride your truck and with which tyres ?
if you find your trucks rear end a little loose in the techincal parts of your track.
try a lower wt oil in the rear end ( front and rear stock pistons ) and put a swaybar upfront
and keep the yellow spring
no need to bring down the roll center
on what surface do you ride your truck and with which tyres ?
May try 35wt in the rear. Gotta rebuild the shocks anyhow
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The truck is dialed until the back end comes around...when the back end comes around it's never recoverable.
#6613
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I have a yellow spring + 30wt oil and stock pistons + 2mm swaybar upfront
I have a blue spring + 20wt oil + no swaybar in the rear.
I have 7k diff front
I have 5k diff rear
20T pully front and rear
our track conditions do seem to be the same, my track is also somewhat blown out.
I suggest you get a swaybar for the front before you change to much in your setup.
the swaybar might do the trick for you
I have a blue spring + 20wt oil + no swaybar in the rear.
I have 7k diff front
I have 5k diff rear
20T pully front and rear
our track conditions do seem to be the same, my track is also somewhat blown out.
I suggest you get a swaybar for the front before you change to much in your setup.
the swaybar might do the trick for you
#6614
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where I race we have a off camber left turn just before the straightaway. So it is very hard to go full throttle when coming up the straightaway
otherwise you suffer from a unstable car the whole straightaway