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Old 08-19-2011, 09:35 PM
  #6601  
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
I have the clutch basket installed...... I might go ahead and buy better hexes as well as the DE wheels......
Ft hexes solved that exact problem on my truck!
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Old 08-19-2011, 10:51 PM
  #6602  
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I'm excited to run my clutch basket tomorrow @ sdrc. It will also be my first time to sdrc. Does anyone know what tires are preferred? I know not everyone who posts here is not a social resident but I just thought I'd ask.
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Old 08-19-2011, 10:55 PM
  #6603  
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Originally Posted by BLbound
I'm excited to run my clutch basket tomorrow @ sdrc. It will also be my first time to sdrc. Does anyone know what tires are preferred? I know not everyone who posts here is not a social resident but I just thought I'd ask.
I like Barcodes there, just the right amount of grip it seems. Suburbs work but can have almost too much grip and the foam wears down fast. I want to try rebars but havent had a chance yet.
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:02 PM
  #6604  
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Originally Posted by Eli
I like Barcodes there, just the right amount of grip it seems. Suburbs work but can have almost too much grip and the foam wears down fast. I want to try rebars but havent had a chance yet.
Cool, thanks Eli! Lucky me I have some barcodes! Do you happen to know if there is usually a 4x4 class?
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:06 PM
  #6605  
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Originally Posted by BLbound
Cool, thanks Eli! Lucky me I have some barcodes! Do you happen to know if there is usually a 4x4 class?
Oh ya there is usually an A and B main in 4x4 sc. Register at socal-rc (bottom of my sig has a short cut) If you want to keep in better touch of what goes on at sdrc.
I should be there tomorrow kinda late tho.
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:10 PM
  #6606  
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Originally Posted by Eli
Oh ya there is usually an A and B main in 4x4 sc. Register at socal-rc (bottom of my sig has a short cut) If you want to keep in better touch of what goes on at sdrc.
I should be there tomorrow kinda late tho.
Thanks Eli, I will see you tomorrow. I will be the guy with the black, white, & fl yellow sc10 4x4.
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:55 PM
  #6607  
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Need help gearing 550 lrp x12l 5.5 motor is running extremely hot
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Old 08-20-2011, 12:05 AM
  #6608  
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Originally Posted by itr
Need help gearing 550 lrp x12l 5.5 motor is running extremely hot
what are u at right now? I had a 4.5 x12l in mine, trying to remember how it was geared. BUt they do run on the hotter side. Fan may be needed?
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:35 AM
  #6609  
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SC104x4 is getting better. It's ALMOST dialed. It's fast through the fast corners, but the ass end washes out too easily in the technical stuff. Drove a buddy's SC10 4x4 tonight to see where the truck was stock, and it's SO much better than it was stock it's not even funny. This truck is going to be money once it's dialed in. So money. Right now it'd tear shit up indoors on high grip...just need to get the outdoor setup finalized so ThunderbirdJunkie can kick everybody's ass all year next year.

Everywhere but tight corners the truck works well. It's stable (as long as you're on the throttle) in the longer sweepers, but it tends to step out and get touchy in tighter stuff. Everybody says "unscrew the rear shock rod ends", but there's got to be another way. Not putting swaybars on it until it's dialed, either. Period. They're in the box...not gonna happen. ThunderbirdJunkie also thinks it needs 40 or 42.5wt oil in the shocks. Saddle packs are *almost* all the way back, with the RX8 and Futaba Rx mounted up front.

Anyway...the truck is stupid fast, and it steers like an MFer. Just need to get the rear settled down. Maybe a longer rear camber link? Change the roll center in the rear? ThunderbirdJunkie's so close. The truck is going to kick ass next week. He can feel it.

Here's the setup sheet.

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Old 08-20-2011, 02:07 AM
  #6610  
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[QUOTE=T-BirdJunkie;9549345]SC104x4 is getting better. It's ALMOST dialed. It's fast through the fast corners, but the ass end washes out too easily in the technical stuff. Drove a buddy's SC10 4x4 tonight to see where the truck was stock, and it's SO much better than it was stock it's not even funny. This truck is going to be money once it's dialed in. So money. Right now it'd tear shit up indoors on high grip...just need to get the outdoor setup finalized so ThunderbirdJunkie can kick everybody's ass all year next year.

Everywhere but tight corners the truck works well. It's stable (as long as you're on the throttle) in the longer sweepers, but it tends to step out and get touchy in tighter stuff. Everybody says "unscrew the rear shock rod ends", but there's got to be another way. Not putting swaybars on it until it's dialed, either. Period. They're in the box...not gonna happen. ThunderbirdJunkie also thinks it needs 40 or 42.5wt oil in the shocks. Saddle packs are *almost* all the way back, with the RX8 and Futaba Rx mounted up front.

Anyway...the truck is stupid fast, and it steers like an MFer. Just need to get the rear settled down. Maybe a longer rear camber link? Change the roll center in the rear? ThunderbirdJunkie's so close. The truck is going to kick ass next week. He can feel it.

Here's the setup sheet.

Where are you going the heavier shock oil ? Front or rear ? I have my shocks apart at the moment and am willing to try something else , 27.5 to 40 seems pretty drastic so I am guessing its just rear ?
cheers.
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Old 08-20-2011, 02:07 AM
  #6611  
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hey T-bird.
if you find your trucks rear end a little loose in the techincal parts of your track.
try a lower wt oil in the rear end ( front and rear stock pistons ) and put a swaybar upfront
and keep the yellow spring
when you go higher up in wt for your shock oil, you tend to lose grip

no need to bring down the roll center

on what surface do you ride your truck and with which tyres ?

I see you drive the clicker. I also use the clicker and my truck is dialed. sometimes the rear gets a little loose but that is due to track-conditions changeing during the day and tyre wear
my rear slides 9 out of 10 times 100% controlable
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Old 08-20-2011, 02:11 AM
  #6612  
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Originally Posted by northkona
Where are you going the heavier shock oil ? Front or rear ? I have my shocks apart at the moment and am willing to try something else , 27.5 to 40 seems pretty drastic so I am guessing its just rear ?
cheers.
1.3 pistons with 37.5 in the rear, not 27.5...1.1s in the front with 22.5wt
Originally Posted by murky123
hey T-bird.
if you find your trucks rear end a little loose in the techincal parts of your track.
try a lower wt oil in the rear end ( front and rear stock pistons ) and put a swaybar upfront
and keep the yellow spring

no need to bring down the roll center

on what surface do you ride your truck and with which tyres ?
AKA Supersoft Enduros...it's a hardpack surface with quite a bit of dust by the time the mains roll around, and when the 8th scales are running it tends to get rutted.

May try 35wt in the rear. Gotta rebuild the shocks anyhow

The truck is dialed until the back end comes around...when the back end comes around it's never recoverable.
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Old 08-20-2011, 02:17 AM
  #6613  
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I have a yellow spring + 30wt oil and stock pistons + 2mm swaybar upfront
I have a blue spring + 20wt oil + no swaybar in the rear.
I have 7k diff front
I have 5k diff rear
20T pully front and rear

our track conditions do seem to be the same, my track is also somewhat blown out.

I suggest you get a swaybar for the front before you change to much in your setup.
the swaybar might do the trick for you
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Old 08-20-2011, 02:20 AM
  #6614  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie

The truck is dialed until the back end comes around...when the back end comes around it's never recoverable.
I know what you mean. at that point you have to let go of the throttle and start accelerating all over again to keep control of your truck.

where I race we have a off camber left turn just before the straightaway. So it is very hard to go full throttle when coming up the straightaway
otherwise you suffer from a unstable car the whole straightaway
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Old 08-20-2011, 03:50 AM
  #6615  
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T-bird junkie reading that setup sheet made me Lol from the funny comments on there.
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