CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

Buy the rtr 4x4. Those electronics could easily be sold for the difference.

CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

I think if you took the weight difference of the Losi, and bolted a thin steel plate of that weight to the bottom of the sc10 chassis, you'd be there.

But there may be more to it than that. The chassis of the Losi is what puts the weight low, so does replacing that with a CF chassis make it drive like ass? Probably not.

CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

Is anyone running a 1406 4600kv in these? I have one in my 2w, not sure if it'd be too hot for 4x4.

Check it out next to the 1410:

Artikbot

My exact thoughts.

The chassis of the AE is incredibly lightweight, so that adds to the issue of having the CG too high.

If you think about it, other than lowering the bumpers' position, there's no other viable solution to the CG issue.

Maybe using saddles making a 2S1P configuration instead of the classical 2S2P/2S3P? That would obviously need very high tech silicon molecular packs, which have nearly 2x the power density of regular LiPo packs... But they are expensive as hell.

Or probably using a 2S1P, ultra-thin pack with carbon fiber maiden case to make it as thinner as possible, to have a very very very flat pack that sits as lower in the chassis as possible.

But as I said, other than the bumpers, nothing that's viable on the short run can be done.


Regarding the 1406... Maybe with a very very short gearing (14/93) it can survive a full qualifier/main.

Not situable for this car. I tried a 2 pole, 14T Orion and the thing was scorching hot (enough to burn my fingers) after 4-5 minutes. I ran a 18/93 ratio, the same I run on the 1410. And the 1410 is simply cool.

CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

Thanks.. i may try it just for shits n grins. Sometimes a smaller rotor can actually make it faster out of the hole because getting traction is easier.



Next question... If I start shimming the inner ballstuds, how far can I go before needing longer ballstuds? 5mm? These things have a metal plate they thread into, so if they are too far out they fall out.

I also noticed they tend to work loose. I'll use locktite next time.

Artikbot

Yeah, just pop it in and do some laps.

It might surprise you! Castle motors behave in a very unusual manner sometimes

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Make sure your tension pulleys are on right. I can almost be certain that this is your case. They may look like they go in one way, but they actually go in place kind of reversed from conventional designs, at least for me. If that's not it, check it again and again, just to make sure they are not the culprits.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

the belt can't be too tight cause it will tighten under acceleration, you need some flex.

It does depend if you are running the smaller pulley up front.

I had belt coming off problems on the front, it might be tensioner or belt cover, it used to slip a lot, so annoying but i haven't run my truck in a while. I replaced the belt put back the 20 tooth pulleyand it seems to be ok.

Artikbot

And this is why I won't lawn dart mine until I don't get the links to finish the stiffener.

ITS ME DAVID

iTrader: (5)

Lucy dog can't wait for the 4000kv to come.

Artikbot

4-pole sensored...


For quals and mains... Do like

For practising... Do not like

kdub

Here ya go!

ilanstylz

iTrader: (142)

I don't know if this is an issue or not, hopefully someone can help out..... I noticed today at the track when i was doing some testing on my car stand that when I would give the car throttle the right rear would stop alot faster then the rest of the wheels, basically the other tires keep spinning and the right rear stops????? Is this an issue with my diff. or something else binding?

pink_sleeve

iTrader: (221)

Thanks

Mac The Knife

iTrader: (33)

Are you using the stock hexes, or the FT aluminum hexes?