SC10 4x4 Thread
#6556
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
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The pinions should not be wearing very fast. If installed properly, they should last you years.
Attached is the set-up. Sorry it took so long but the set-up sheet can't be saved, so I had to print-fill out-scan-up load which always sounds like it's more work than what it really is :P
Attached is the set-up. Sorry it took so long but the set-up sheet can't be saved, so I had to print-fill out-scan-up load which always sounds like it's more work than what it really is :P
The only thing that differs is the shock position, rear hub and rear bar.
I'm curious why you use the 2.2 in the rear?
#6557
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
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The pinions should not be wearing very fast. If installed properly, they should last you years.
Attached is the set-up. Sorry it took so long but the set-up sheet can't be saved, so I had to print-fill out-scan-up load which always sounds like it's more work than what it really is :P
Attached is the set-up. Sorry it took so long but the set-up sheet can't be saved, so I had to print-fill out-scan-up load which always sounds like it's more work than what it really is :P
#6558
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I use the 2.2 bar because it generates more traction on power. I am even thinking about making a thicker one to keep the rear flatter under power.
What are you doing with the hubs? Are you running the C plate? I am thinking of adding it and raising the inner stud about 5mm in the rear. Doing this to TC's usually generates more traction at the rear end. How about your shocks, where do they differ?
T-Bird, I guess they are CVJ's, they are the stock units. :S
What are you doing with the hubs? Are you running the C plate? I am thinking of adding it and raising the inner stud about 5mm in the rear. Doing this to TC's usually generates more traction at the rear end. How about your shocks, where do they differ?
T-Bird, I guess they are CVJ's, they are the stock units. :S
#6559
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The pinions should not be wearing very fast. If installed properly, they should last you years.
Attached is the set-up. Sorry it took so long but the set-up sheet can't be saved, so I had to print-fill out-scan-up load which always sounds like it's more work than what it really is :P
Attached is the set-up. Sorry it took so long but the set-up sheet can't be saved, so I had to print-fill out-scan-up load which always sounds like it's more work than what it really is :P
#6560
Tech Elite
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iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Posts: 2,974
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
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Crap, ThunderbirdJunkie got all excited hoping he was going to be able to snag some actual universals for the rear of the truck![Ha!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/ha.gif)
Sidenote...do not EVER, under ANY circumstances, google image search XXX-T universal![weird](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/weird.gif)
![Ha!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/ha.gif)
Sidenote...do not EVER, under ANY circumstances, google image search XXX-T universal
![weird](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/weird.gif)
![](http://site.ehobbies.com/googleimages/losa3027.jpg)
#6561
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PUTTING THESE IN RIGHT
NOW
![](http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr158/xxxtruck/motor006.jpg)
#6565
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Just ran my 4600 for the frist time. much smoother brakes and acceleration plus truck is now 2ozs lighter. headed to the track to race mine tonight.
#6567
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
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I found some Losi 48P ones that are full width, use the larger set screw, etc.
I have stripped out one 48P spur with my 1410 castle, but got some good use out of it. I'm not convinced enough yet to switch to 32P. I like having only one stash of pinions to share with my 2w stuff.
#6568
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
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Also I was very careful about the front-to-rear location of the holes so it would fit both and fit the bumpers perfectly and also not rub the front tires. Too much hanging out in back just busts the body up worse.
#6569
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
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he guy i have lawn darted my truck a few times and i think the chassis isnt as flat as it was new so i made a link to stiffin it up and then readjusted my pulleys but in order to keep the belt from skipping under hard acceleration i have to set it too tight which causes it to bind up in reverse and its got way too much resistance to the point that motor gets hot really fast . so i loosened it up and when doing so i noticed the pulleys were wobbling around so I ordered a new belt and the STRC aluminum tensioner pulleys and new bearings for the new pulleys . I may have jumped the gun but the pulleys are both real wobbly and im thinking this might be part of the problem . What are you fine folks doing to keep this from happening . and what suggestions do you have to remedy this . Thanks