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Old 08-17-2011, 08:25 PM
  #6436  
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Originally Posted by GuiltyByAssoc
^^ Wait for Pro4? or upgrade to the 13mm rotor on the sc4x 550...
That high torque rotor created so much drag I hated it. Something to keep in mind, it was like a drag brake for me, I tried gearing really tall also and it didn't help much so I pulled it. Also lowers the kv so you have to gear high to get the same speed, it didn't add as much torque as I had hoped either. Alot of people have good luck with them but not me, if you run on a tight track with a lot of medium speed 180's then it might work good, for me if I let off the throttle at all the back end would come around so fast it was hard to pull out of it. I also turned push control on to 65% it didn't help. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:30 PM
  #6437  
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Originally Posted by Artikbot
I wonder why do people add weight to the car

Actually, what's good about it in racing terms, is that it is LIGHT!

Myself being a 1/10 4WD buggy guy since I started RC at the age of 12, I'm used to drive critical stuff, to be light on the brakes, to have a smooth throttle, and above all, to have a properly adjusted suspension setup.

You can't drive this truck like an 1/8, because IT IS NOT. If adding weight to the car (for the sole purpose of making it heavier, not to balance it out) works for you, then the problem is not the car, but your driving style.

1/8 cars like to be treated rough on the gas, and firm on the brakes, because they are heavy, wide, and ride low; and the can transfer the horsepower to the ground. But this truck is probably the one out there liking the smoothest possible driving style.


You cannot attempt to drive this as an 1/8, despite the actual dimensions of the truck.

The Losi? It's another world. That is a highroller 1/8 with a big body.
Have you tried adding weight to the truck? By Me adding weight to my truck, I was able to go about 12 seconds faster over 5 minutes. It was easier to drive, more consistent and yielded faster lap times.

I am sorry, but saying driving style is what is wrong, is a wrong approach at tuning a chassis. A good set-up person looks for a set-up that suits him, a lousy set-up person tries "to get used to it'. I am not a compliant and mediocre person though. If something drives lousy, it drives lousy. At our track, without extra weight, the truck drove lousy and I got killed by drivers with similar skill levels driving other trucks. By adding weight the truck was better in EVERY ASPECT, and it was not a driving style thing either, anyone who drove it and saw it could not believe how much more stuck and predictable the Truck was. For the first time ever, after winning the main by 2 laps (each being about 40 seconds in length), people actually came out of their way to comment and ask what kind of truck it was, which tires I was running and to comment on how stuck the truck was.

Bottom line is the clock does not lie. If a lighter truck gives you faster, more consistent laps, then that's what needs to be done. In my case, it is the opposite.
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:53 PM
  #6438  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
Nothing. The fact that he acted like he was a superior human being because he ran some slow-moving machinery that works in ten-thousandths of an inch and had a Mustang was what ThunderbirdJunkie pointed out. His T-birds have all been Fox bodies :P

Anybody used OG RC8 springs on their trucks? ThunderbirdJunkie feels the need for a stiffer front spring come indoor season.
Haha, gotcha man.
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Old 08-17-2011, 09:02 PM
  #6439  
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
Have you tried adding weight to the truck? By Me adding weight to my truck, I was able to go about 12 seconds faster over 5 minutes. It was easier to drive, more consistent and yielded faster lap times.

I am sorry, but saying driving style is what is wrong, is a wrong approach at tuning a chassis. A good set-up person looks for a set-up that suits him, a lousy set-up person tries "to get used to it'. I am not a compliant and mediocre person though. If something drives lousy, it drives lousy. At our track, without extra weight, the truck drove lousy and I got killed by drivers with similar skill levels driving other trucks. By adding weight the truck was better in EVERY ASPECT, and it was not a driving style thing either, anyone who drove it and saw it could not believe how much more stuck and predictable the Truck was. For the first time ever, after winning the main by 2 laps (each being about 40 seconds in length), people actually came out of their way to comment and ask what kind of truck it was, which tires I was running and to comment on how stuck the truck was.

Bottom line is the clock does not lie. If a lighter truck gives you faster, more consistent laps, then that's what needs to be done. In my case, it is the opposite.
+1...sounds good! When you get a second could you please post your set up? Thanks!
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Old 08-17-2011, 09:08 PM
  #6440  
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I am debating going from the current - LRP 5.5t 550 to a Tekin 8.5t 540. Any thoughts?
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Old 08-17-2011, 10:53 PM
  #6441  
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Tekin pro4 4000kv ftw
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ITS ME DAVID
Tekin pro4 4000kv ftw
Thats what i was thinking as well
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:34 PM
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Hey guys, having a bit of trouble with my SC10 4x4. After FINALLY getting my shock cartridge cap, (waited over 3 months) I am able to drive the truck now. I am having problems though. When I roll the truck, it's kinda hard to roll. It's not normal, definitely different from any 4x4 i've had. It's not the motor, that is fine. Any suggestions to trying to get it to roll better? This is really hurting me, my little 540 motor hits over 200 after a main, and I think it's because of the drag. Not to mention, it's SO slow. Any help? Thanks!
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Grand National
Hey guys, having a bit of trouble with my SC10 4x4. After FINALLY getting my shock cartridge cap, (waited over 3 months) I am able to drive the truck now. I am having problems though. When I roll the truck, it's kinda hard to roll. It's not normal, definitely different from any 4x4 i've had. It's not the motor, that is fine. Any suggestions to trying to get it to roll better? This is really hurting me, my little 540 motor hits over 200 after a main, and I think it's because of the drag. Not to mention, it's SO slow. Any help? Thanks!
Take the whole belt cover off and check that the belt is aligned properly.

This resistance is with the pinion on the motor taken off, right?
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:00 AM
  #6445  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
Take the whole belt cover off and check that the belt is aligned properly.

This resistance is with the pinion on the motor taken off, right?
Correct... I will check that, but I don't think that is the problem... any more suggestions?
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:01 AM
  #6446  
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Also go back to page 1 on this thread make sure you installed the 3 ball stud washers when putting together the tranny halves otherwise they bind and could be causing your problem.
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:10 AM
  #6447  
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Originally Posted by ITS ME DAVID
Also go back to page 1 on this thread make sure you installed the 3 ball stud washers when putting together the tranny halves otherwise they bind and could be causing your problem.
Sounds great I didn't know the first page kept updating. Thank you I will check now.
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:12 AM
  #6448  
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anyone get pics of the factory sc10 4x4 cars? any setup sheets?
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:27 AM
  #6449  
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Originally Posted by Arigato
A friend of mine is making chassis braces just like that and selling them through:

www.702RcRaceway.com
+1000
After the slipper fix (thanks Mac) this is the number... Actually, i guess this is the best because i would have the belt come off like 2 or 3 times a night because of so much flex. Now even with the O pully on i am in the middle of the tensioner on both the front and the back with no skipping at all. Basket does no good at all if the belt aint on! Thanks Billy G.
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:38 AM
  #6450  
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Originally Posted by bajabro
i just rebuilt my shocks with the trackstar o-rings... They leak worse then they did with the stock rings... Any suggestions of what i may have done wrong?
Are you using both o-rings? Did you tighten the cartridge enough? I used 2 o-rings in all the shocks & I used a 15mm socket to tighten the cartridge because the plastic shock tool slips. I just looked at my shocks & I have no leaking what so ever. Good luck!
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