CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

If you touched the slipper cover and it was smokin' hot, the slipper is slipin' no mater how many washers you put in it. Welcome to 550 motors!

I read the thread (all of it!), used the two extra washers, and the HD pads, and STILL couldn't lock it down where it wouldn't slip without the the Mac the Knife clutch basket.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ch-basket.html

Mac The Knife

iTrader: (33)

Thanks Craig.

jeb4

iTrader: (6)

Well, I learned a lesson today. Like I said, I figured things were slipping, so I looked at the spring and you could see that it had gotten hot and the slipper pads were brown too.

Instead of leaving the nut at "3.5 mm" per the manual, I cranked it all the way in (thought it was cranked in at the 3.5mm setting - boy was I wrong). With the nut cranked all the way in, I just ran the thing up and down the street 20 times at full throttle, and the heat issues appear to be gone.

I guess the moral of the story is to ignore the manual? Thanks to all of you for your help. I'll be back for help once I break it or catch it on fire

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

what happened to the other sc10 4x4 thread? (build,race, modify, etc)

MarqueeRc

Its 91090, the first part in that image is the slipper thrust spacer, then the slipper thrust bearing, and then the slipper thrust washer.. The manual as that image shows has just one slipper thrust washer, put one or two more of those washers there if you are slipping excessively, its better to put the washers there than putting them between the slipper plate and spring imo..

Some put that slipper thrust spacer in backwards causing a heap of more issues, like melting your slipper assembly and spur...


Me and my buddy have run 550 motors with no issues and no need for the basket.....Maybe its b/c we run on a big, low bite track, or just have not encountered that problem of excessive slipping?Not even using hd pads which I have on the ready if need be..

Glad you got it figured out brosef!! My sc10 4wd will remain a non "basket case" until she starts acting funny..Dont see that happening though..

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

Welcome to Team Associated cars

ThunderbirdJunkie has avoided following the settings in the book ever since his first AE car 15 years ago

turbowop

iTrader: (33)

Wouldn't adding washers in that location push the belt pulley farther out, creating an alignment issue with the belt?

Bottom line, if you have the spring bottomed out and the nut cranked down and you're still slipping, you need the clutch basket. Just like a 1:1 car that puts down lots of HP, single disk clutches get overpowered and twin and triple disks come into play. More surface area = more friction = less slippage. More clamping force via springs and washers or other jerry-rigging just make for problems in other areas.

That said, I haven't had a single issue with my slipper built to factory specs. I'm using a Castle 1410 3800kv motor. I have a clutch basket and an extra set of pads in my toolbox ready to go if I have any issues in the future, but at the moment, I don't need them...

BLbound

iTrader: (27)

Ok I have stopped lying to myself thinking my slipper was fine & have finally ordered a clutch basket!

On another note, today I'm at the track & was reading the back of the instruction guide & noticed in the REAR CAMBER section that it mentions a "camber gauge included"...I didn't get a camber gauge with my kit? Did anyone else?

MarqueeRc

I put them there b/c the team guys told me that would be the ideal place(not to mention in page one of this thread), and have not had any issues with the belt coming off or any alignment issues..Its been flawless this way with both 540 and 550's...I have no excessive slippage with this setup recommended by the team tech support..

No they dont come with a gauge, but the 2wd did?

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

Wouldn't work even if it was in there. The AE gauge (included in the 2wd kit) is too short to work correctly with a SC tire. RPM has one that works well, and is adjustable....

BLbound

iTrader: (27)

Ah, I'm not familiar with the AE gauge, but I've had my trusty rpm gauge since they came out. Seems like they did some cut & paste in the instructions I guess.

BulldogSRT

iTrader: (1)

With the insight of one of the guys at WCRC I think he found what might be a fundamental manufacturing problem with the stock slipper assembly. The two flat areas on top shaft are not machined enough to allow the outer slipper plate to tighten down the assembly enough. I tried adding a washer between the spring and outer plate (to increases the springs pressure), I cranked the slipper as tight as possible and would after about 4 packs have both nicely glazed pads, HT on outer and Std on the inner. I measured the distance from the end of the shaft to the surface of the washer where the springs sits. Here is the interesting part........I removed the spur gear and pads and just installed the outer plate and it bottoms out (plate rests on the bottom of the machined flats) at the same measurement. So no matter how many washers you add or how tight you make the spring it does not get any tighter.

This does explain why those that have added a shim under the thrust bearing are having good results since it basically pushes the spur / pads toward the outer plate. The down side is how many shims are needed which then starts messing with the drive belt alignment.

If the plate did not bottom out on the shaft, the slipper could be then tighten enough not to slip

The ironic part is that I finally sorted these details out as I was installing the MTK clutch basket. I have been running the MTK clutch basket and love it and the ability that I can now adjust the slipper to the track conditions.

So to those not sure about the MTK basket, check out your outer plate to see if it even has room to tighten down before bottoming out. Taking a dremel to the flats of the shaft could be a cheap and easy fix. It really should be something that AE should correct.

BulldogSRT

MarqueeRc

Yes sir..Thats why i thought and recomended for those to add the extra washer/s ( i used just one extra slipper thrust washer making it a total of two washers/shims) there on top the slipper thrust bearing rather than between the slipper plate and spring..

I have had no issues with the belt alignment or belt skipping, and I have lawn darted it pretty bad in my local 1/8 scale outdoor rough track..Maybe the added shim pushes the alignment out just a bit enough to help counter the flex of the belt assembly causing the belts to come off, that some have reported? I am going on a limb with that assertion/assumption() but have had no issues with this setup, eliminating the need for any real bandaid imho..

For those having slipper issues give this a shot, experiment with this remedy, you have nothing to loose?

mrjeremyaaron

iTrader: (9)

Is this the one that you are meaning?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Camber-Gauge

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

The RPM one is good, get it!