macke

+1. I have also put about 20 packs through mine with no problems at all. Run on large 1/8 scale track with the fan on the ESC, geared 15/62 and 16/62. 40-45C 5000 mAh batteries.

northkona

iTrader: (15)

30-14 what a massacre!

barry1me

iTrader: (9)

I just picked up a factory team rear upper shaft....my stock one was wobbling so Im curious to see how the FT model holds up.

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

Isn't the gear on the top shaft the only difference? After 20 yrs. I'm not a fan of any aluminum gears. I would think the shaft itself would be the same. Crank the slipper nut too tight and you will bend the top shaft...

Side note~ if you've had slipper issues and have installed the clutch basket I would replace the slipper spring as well. Not 100% sure if high temps caused it (180+ on the slipper hubs) but my spring was sagged out about a 1/4+ inch from a new one....

1fastslash

iTrader: (7)

mines been really good as well i only use 2s and ive ut about 50 packs thru it and its running strong ..i too have the fan on the esc

kromesoldier

iTrader: (5)

I see alot of people are running indoor on small tracks. Seems you guys are pushing alot more heat than I do. I see guys at our track running the sidewinders on the huge 1/8 scale track and barely going over 100 degrees. I run the mmp with the 1415. And a few times I put in the 1410 and have had no troubles. Gearing at 17/62 and running smooth.

Keeferton

iTrader: (13)

Im pretty sure the lightweight top shafts are the same material just with the center of the shaft drilled out. Only way to save your top shaft from bending when cranking on the slipper is to not crank of the slipper nut or just get the clutch basket and never worry about it again.

jeb4

iTrader: (6)

Quick question: I just got my SC10 4x4 put together and drove it around a bit. The rear diff housing gets so hot that you can't touch it. Possible causes? I haven't torn it down yet, but everything seems "smooth".....

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

That's not good at all. I would disassemble and see if something is binding/rubbing etc.

BlueGlowBoy

iTrader: (2)

the whole diff housing? or the pinion/spur gear cover?

Your motor AND your slipper will generate a lot of heat...if your motor is getting too hot, or your slipper is slipping too much, that could be the cause too.

Check the binding first (take the pinion off and give the truck a push)

If there isn't any real binding, your slipper is probably slipping too much AND you might be overgeared...

what gearing are you running, and did you put 1-2 extra 1/4" washers between your spring and the slipper plate?

CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

I haven't done any of these "fixes" you guys are talking about and I don't have any heat issues. I would tear it down first and make sure there's no binding.

MarqueeRc

I think those having slipper issues will have hvae better success by adding the washers or extra washer behind the slipper thrust spacer rather than between the spring and slipper plate...In essence your adding one or two more slipper thrust washers instead of the one supplied and recommended for use on the kit (as described per manual instructions)..This has been the only remedy I have needed for my slipper in the truck...No slipper clutch basket needed??

Also if you have so much heat being produced in the rear area I would check and make sure you installed the slipper thrust spacer in correctly (Its behind the spur and rear pulley)..To get to it you have to dissesemble the rear and slide the motor out..Check to make sure its in right side up as the manual shows..This has caused many (that I have read and seen) to overheat the rear housing while also melting there slipper pads, spur gear, and there slipper spring...This can cause alot of damage in the slipper assembly while subsequently destroying the slipper thrust bearing.. Hope this adds some insight to those running into slipper issues..

jeb4

iTrader: (6)

Good question. I only touched the cover....

Motor (Tekin SC4X 4.5T) is staying around 155. Slipper was/is tightened nearly all the way in.

I'll do that. I was just out "poking" at it again and noticed that if I pick up the truck and spin the rear wheels everything is fine. Same for the front. When I set the truck down and roll it, it is very loud.....??


Looks like gearing is 13/62 - 32p. Put the slipper together as per the instructions. Is there a "trick" that I need to know about here?

Thank you for your post!

jeb4

iTrader: (6)

Not to clog up the thread but...the noise I was hearing was nothing more than the large 32p gears of the pinion against the spur (I'm an on-road guy and used to 64p!). Just didn't notice this before I guess. The motor had moved a touch too, creating a little "slop". 2 minute fix on that one.

Diffs are silky smooth and nothing seems to be binding. Still worried about the heat, but now thinking things may be slipping. Is there a way to "bench test" this?

Thank you for your help!

Opps! Didn't see the new posts....need to read 'em.

jeb4

iTrader: (6)

I figure I'd better check this, but I'm not 100% following you.

Which number are we talking about in this pic? Again, thank you for the help!