5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
07-26-2011, 04:57 AM
#5206
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Have you driven an SC10 4x4 with 50k front diff oil? ThunderbirdJunkie's truck will NOT steer AT ALL with 50k. The truck drives like a stock Stampede.
ThunderbirdJunkie is talking about hex drivers. The screws are 3mm OD thread, but they're 2.5mm drivers that put them in, unless they're buttonheads or 2mm/2.5mm screws which take 2mm drivers, or setscrews that take 1.5 mm drivers.
ThunderbirdJunkie is talking about hex drivers. The screws are 3mm OD thread, but they're 2.5mm drivers that put them in, unless they're buttonheads or 2mm/2.5mm screws which take 2mm drivers, or setscrews that take 1.5 mm drivers.
07-26-2011, 05:30 AM
#5207
Don't Bother, it has been asked him before, and that people find it anoying. Doesnt seem to bother him to..
07-26-2011, 06:41 AM
#5208
Tech Master
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I don't find it annoying. Its just that I have only known 2 people in my life that talked about themselves in the 3rd person and they both turned out to be pedo's or "kiddie touchers" as we refer to them back home. Nothing against him and I'm not saying that he is but I just had to ask. He can get butt-hurt if he wants but I'm curious.
07-26-2011, 07:31 AM
#5209
How much torque for steering servo
Is 139 oz/in going to be enough torque for the steering servo? I plan on using the Futaba S9350 servo, shouldn't that be more than strong enough?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXA7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXA7
07-26-2011, 07:36 AM
#5210
Is 139 oz/in going to be enough torque for the steering servo? I plan on using the Futaba S9350 servo, shouldn't that be more than strong enough?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXA7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXA7
07-26-2011, 08:34 AM
#5212
It will work....and if your track is mostly higher speed corners, might not be too bad. My track is lots of sharp 180s under heavy braking, so higher torque with the 4wd seems to help....plus more power should mean that your servo will last longer without needing replacement.... the servo is the last thing I want to maintain/replace on this truck....
07-26-2011, 08:44 AM
#5213
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Dude... why does everybody make such a big deal about the whole servo thing? Its a total of 10the screws and its out! It took me 10I minute to take the truck apart, put the servo horn back on because I forgot to put loctite on the screw and put the truck back together... BY HAND. No power tools needed or required.
07-26-2011, 08:47 AM
#5214
Dude... why does everybody make such a big deal about the whole servo thing? Its a total of 10the screws and its out! It took me 10I minute to take the truck apart, put the servo horn back on because I forgot to put loctite on the screw and put the truck back together... BY HAND. No power tools needed or required.
07-26-2011, 08:48 AM
#5215
how long does it take to get to the diffs? really the servo horn shouldnt take you that long to do... it took me only 15 minutes to assemble it. 
07-26-2011, 09:07 AM
#5216
Dude... why does everybody make such a big deal about the whole servo thing? Its a total of 10the screws and its out! It took me 10I minute to take the truck apart, put the servo horn back on because I forgot to put loctite on the screw and put the truck back together... BY HAND. No power tools needed or required.
It kind of reminds me of when I rebuilt a Sector 7 6th scale Toyota Tundra... the servo wasn't actually screwed into anything, but it was 15+ screws to dismantle the truck and get the casing apart that held the servo in place...
07-26-2011, 09:24 AM
#5217
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I did my diffs at the track in between rounds of heats this weekend and only took me 510I minute to pull them both out and put them back in.
07-26-2011, 09:26 AM
#5218
Have you driven an SC10 4x4 with 50k front diff oil? ThunderbirdJunkie's truck will NOT steer AT ALL with 50k. The truck drives like a stock Stampede.
ThunderbirdJunkie is talking about hex drivers. The screws are 3mm OD thread, but they're 2.5mm drivers that put them in, unless they're buttonheads or 2mm/2.5mm screws which take 2mm drivers, or setscrews that take 1.5 mm drivers.
ThunderbirdJunkie is talking about hex drivers. The screws are 3mm OD thread, but they're 2.5mm drivers that put them in, unless they're buttonheads or 2mm/2.5mm screws which take 2mm drivers, or setscrews that take 1.5 mm drivers.
07-26-2011, 09:26 AM
#5219
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I think the reason that everyone makes a big deal of it is because many other vehicles can get the servo out by popping off one ball cup and undoing 2 screws. Spoiled is what we are....
It kind of reminds me of when I rebuilt a Sector 7 6th scale Toyota Tundra... the servo wasn't actually screwed into anything, but it was 15+ screws to dismantle the truck and get the casing apart that held the servo in place...
It kind of reminds me of when I rebuilt a Sector 7 6th scale Toyota Tundra... the servo wasn't actually screwed into anything, but it was 15+ screws to dismantle the truck and get the casing apart that held the servo in place...
07-26-2011, 09:56 AM
#5220
I'm going to be using my LRP with a thunderpower 7.5 with a high torque rotor in the 4x4. From reading a million pages I got the idea to start at a 16/93 the question I have is that a 48pitch or 32 I should use. Its a 540 can btw thanks.
