5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
07-20-2011, 04:38 AM
#4876
Tech Apprentice
07-20-2011, 04:59 AM
#4877
I've been saying that for months too. I've put well over 50 battery packs on the truck (5 races and the rest practice) for the last two months, this is my first issue! I had my belt loose at first too. Then after 6-10 packs I was hearing the skipping when breaking. Then on the weekend after about 45 packs now, the belt slipped off and took out the plastic pulley adjuster piece on the front. And only one store seems to have the part online. I ordered it and now i'm waiting. Picked up a new bearing for the pulley too since the original bearing seems to have some slop in it.
Learning from this... I would suggest you check your belt tension more often so this doesn't happen to you!
Learning from this... I would suggest you check your belt tension more often so this doesn't happen to you!
07-20-2011, 05:11 AM
#4878
OK, my truck should be here by the end of the month(I hope). I plan on running the castle 1410 motor and MMP speed control. My problem is I don't know which one to get, Tower shows 2 Castle 1410 3800 Kv motors.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBKDV&P=SM
and
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBKDW&P=SM
How much torque should my steering servo have? I want plenty of power to get fast steering response, but not so powerfull it draws too much power.
What else will I need to have a good race truck, and what spair parts should I keep on hand, because we don't have a hobby shop at the track.
Thanks Charlie
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBKDV&P=SM
and
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBKDW&P=SM
How much torque should my steering servo have? I want plenty of power to get fast steering response, but not so powerfull it draws too much power.
What else will I need to have a good race truck, and what spair parts should I keep on hand, because we don't have a hobby shop at the track.
Thanks Charlie
Last edited by upDUHcreek; 07-20-2011 at 06:04 AM.
07-20-2011, 06:20 AM
#4880
hi all just got my truck and i wanted to know
what pinion should i uesd i am running the small spur gear on what came with the truck and a trackstar 60amp esc and a hobbyking 4000 kv motor
so would above 16 pinion do or higher
what pinion should i uesd i am running the small spur gear on what came with the truck and a trackstar 60amp esc and a hobbyking 4000 kv motor
so would above 16 pinion do or higher
07-20-2011, 06:26 AM
#4882
I would think not tight enough. Or maybe you put the belt tensioner puley backwards on the front of the truck like I did and it caused the belt to fall off? Installed the puley the right way and all is good now.
07-20-2011, 07:44 AM
#4885
A sure test is to go full throttle forwards and hit the brakes... if it skips allot, tighten the belt one notch at the time until you’re happy with it.
Also the book says to always tighten the front before the rear... or if you need to tighten it again after, you tighten the rear so the front and rear are even on the notches. Then the next time it needs tightening you tighten the front first again and so on.
I wouldn't think you need a new belt till you’re at the maximum that you can tighten the belt down or if the belt is damaged.
07-20-2011, 07:45 AM
#4886
Yes and the book said you might need to tighten the belt after the first run. You have to continue to tighten the belt when it gets loose... so don't go by the settings in the book. Go by how tight it is due to the wear of you using the truck.
A sure test is to go full throttle forwards and hit the brakes... if it skips allot, tighten the belt one notch at the time until you’re happy with it.
Also the book says to always tighten the front before the rear... or if you need to tighten it again after, you tighten the rear so the front and rear are even on the notches. Then the next time it needs tightening you tighten the front first again and so on.
I wouldn't think you need a new belt till you’re at the maximum that you can tighten the belt down or if the belt is damaged.
A sure test is to go full throttle forwards and hit the brakes... if it skips allot, tighten the belt one notch at the time until you’re happy with it.
Also the book says to always tighten the front before the rear... or if you need to tighten it again after, you tighten the rear so the front and rear are even on the notches. Then the next time it needs tightening you tighten the front first again and so on.
I wouldn't think you need a new belt till you’re at the maximum that you can tighten the belt down or if the belt is damaged.
07-20-2011, 07:53 AM
#4887
From page 41 of the book:
The SC10 4x4 belt is 5mm wide neoprene canvas backed. It will stretch slightly over its life, so the belt tensioners will need to be adjusted from the initial settings after about 20-30 minutes of running. By touch, the belt should feel tight when pressing on top surface between the pulleys, and you should only be able to depress the belt about 3mm or 1/8”.
After an initial run-in on the truck and setting the belt tension, you can verify that there is not excessive belt drag.
With the motor pinion removed, the truck should roll 10-15 feet with a slight push on level, smooth ground.
On the setup sheet, the tension slots are broken into 5 tension locations, with 3 being the middle. Since the rear pulley is the drive, we will start with tension setting 3 in rear, and 4 in front. As the belt breaks-in, adjust the front tensioner tighter until you are at the mid 3 setting. After that, any future tension adjustments to tighten the belt should be made
equally front and rear.
The SC10 4x4 belt is 5mm wide neoprene canvas backed. It will stretch slightly over its life, so the belt tensioners will need to be adjusted from the initial settings after about 20-30 minutes of running. By touch, the belt should feel tight when pressing on top surface between the pulleys, and you should only be able to depress the belt about 3mm or 1/8”.
After an initial run-in on the truck and setting the belt tension, you can verify that there is not excessive belt drag.
With the motor pinion removed, the truck should roll 10-15 feet with a slight push on level, smooth ground.
On the setup sheet, the tension slots are broken into 5 tension locations, with 3 being the middle. Since the rear pulley is the drive, we will start with tension setting 3 in rear, and 4 in front. As the belt breaks-in, adjust the front tensioner tighter until you are at the mid 3 setting. After that, any future tension adjustments to tighten the belt should be made
equally front and rear.
07-20-2011, 07:54 AM
#4888
Check your belt alignment. i can almost gaurantee that if you look down the center of the belt housing from the front of the truck that the rear belt cover, center belt cover and front belt cover are bent to the right from drivers perspective if it were a 1:1 car. Ive noticed that this can happen with a lot of lawn darts/ landing nose first into the backside of a lander. And maybe over time it starts having an effect on the belt staying on the pulley.
07-20-2011, 07:59 AM
#4889
I hear there's going to be FT chassis braces coming soon, to help with the pulley alignment issues caused by lawn darting. Tranny to center spine holes, front and rear... 
07-20-2011, 08:04 AM
#4890
Do you know where I can get the heatsink and fan for the LRP. I've searched around a little, and can't seem to find one that's not for the motor.
