5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
07-10-2011, 01:21 PM
#4426
Big Chris,
I too run a 1410/MMP combo. You should try 50k in the front diff and 7k in the rear. Also try out 20/93 gearing with +15deg timing. I love it on both med/small tracks that I've run on. I have an Integy dual fan/heatsink custom mounted that keeps my temps around 115deg after a 8min main.
I too run a 1410/MMP combo. You should try 50k in the front diff and 7k in the rear. Also try out 20/93 gearing with +15deg timing. I love it on both med/small tracks that I've run on. I have an Integy dual fan/heatsink custom mounted that keeps my temps around 115deg after a 8min main.
07-10-2011, 01:50 PM
#4427
Wondering if the vented slipper helps or hurts? Is it removing material from the pad? This is after one run...
07-10-2011, 02:19 PM
#4429
Tech Rookie
Last nights club race didn't go as smoothly as the past week's. I had some belt issues and had a motor mount screw strip out. 
As to my question, as I drive this more and get away from my past 2wd mentality I have noticed more of a solid push on the on/off power steering. Anyone else notice this on wet/loamy tracks? I am using the underdrive pulley on the front and 4x4 locked. We Have a big triple that I use the 4x4 to steady the flight of the truck, but thinking about using the clicker to get around the corners better and figuring a smooth way over the triple. This could very well just be my driving style but I still need to figure out a tighter turning radius at low speeds.
I use 7k front, 3k rear.....Could a easy fix be thicker fluid in the front?
Also, I think I want to find bearings with a lip to replace the plastic belt tensioner....Mine had black junk on it from the belt and did not spin freely.
As to my question, as I drive this more and get away from my past 2wd mentality I have noticed more of a solid push on the on/off power steering. Anyone else notice this on wet/loamy tracks? I am using the underdrive pulley on the front and 4x4 locked. We Have a big triple that I use the 4x4 to steady the flight of the truck, but thinking about using the clicker to get around the corners better and figuring a smooth way over the triple. This could very well just be my driving style but I still need to figure out a tighter turning radius at low speeds.
I use 7k front, 3k rear.....Could a easy fix be thicker fluid in the front?
Also, I think I want to find bearings with a lip to replace the plastic belt tensioner....Mine had black junk on it from the belt and did not spin freely.
07-10-2011, 02:21 PM
#4430
The material in the holes looks white. If you have white pads they're old ones. The high torque pads are a must with the stock slipper. You'll also need to run the stock slipper really tight especially on high bite tracks.
07-10-2011, 02:26 PM
#4431
Vented Slipper
Rather than vented I think I would rather have a Slipper hub that has some heatsink material and a swirl shape in it so that it would act more like a fan and move air rather than the vented. But with the clutch basket it is a mute point as my slipper issues are completely solved.
07-10-2011, 03:02 PM
#4432
I, too, am waiting anxiously on the clutch basket. It should be here in the next few days.
07-10-2011, 04:51 PM
#4434
Qualified and finished second today. Tracks wasn't very forgiving to 4x4 SCTs, more of an 1/8th scale/truggy track. Spent the day experimenting with the setup and getting the Serpent BB 1/8th scale shocks that I installed dialed in. Final setup today was 6 hole pistons drilled out 55, 30 wt AE oil and Orange Serpent springs (4.4 rate) on front, 6 hole 55 pistons, 25 wt AE oil, and Serpent pink rear springs (2.8 rate). Shocks mounted middle upper holes and lower outer holes front and rear. The Serpent upper shock standoffs and shock bushings are a perfect fit on this truck. Used the stock AE lower shock ball end. Suspension was plush and it went through the rutted/bumpy areas way better than with the stock shocks. Didn't bottom out and bounce around as much on hard landings either. Front and rear shocks have 5mm internal limiting, but I need more limiting in the rears, truck has too much rear droop. Another 2mm needed probably. The truck now feels like it has real, high end suspension, instead of creaky, sticky, spring rubbing the shock body Tyco suspension.
07-10-2011, 05:19 PM
#4435
What slipper pads were you running?
Qualified and finished second today. Tracks wasn't very forgiving to 4x4 SCTs, more of an 1/8th scale/truggy track. Spent the day experimenting with the setup and getting the Serpent BB 1/8th scale shocks that I installed dialed in. Final setup today was 6 hole pistons drilled out 55, 30 wt AE oil and Orange Serpent springs (4.4 rate) on front, 6 hole 55 pistons, 25 wt AE oil, and Serpent pink rear springs (2.8 rate). Shocks mounted middle upper holes and lower outer holes front and rear. The Serpent upper shock standoffs and shock bushings are a perfect fit on this truck. Used the stock AE lower shock ball end. Suspension was plush and it went through the rutted/bumpy areas way better than with the stock shocks. Didn't bottom out and bounce around as much on hard landings either. Front and rear shocks have 5mm internal limiting, but I need more limiting in the rears, truck has too much rear droop. Another 2mm needed probably. The truck now feels like it has real, high end suspension, instead of creaky, sticky, spring rubbing the shock body Tyco suspension.
07-10-2011, 05:34 PM
#4436
Chassis nut...
dont know if anyone else has run into this issue... too many pages to sift thru.
basically i pulled one of the bottom captured nuts thru the chassis a lil while back. i first passed it off as being 'heavy handed' with the wrench, which isnt unusual for myself.. sat down to replace the pieces today and as usual i investigated a possible way to prevent this from happening. but, i come to find out it was not entirely my heavy hands to blame. but i do think i figured out a solution.
basically in pic one you will a center chassis piece.. right (front) bottom of chassis has a nice 'boss' molded in to prevent pull-thru... left (rear) bottom of chassis simply shows the pass thru hole for the screw, but no 'boss'... all other chassis pieces in kit has the boss to prevent an 'air gap/void' between interlocking pieces which could lead to a collapse then fastener is tightened.. probably just a simple oops in the mold..
basically, i just need to fill the gap..
i think just a simple spacer could do the trick when assembling the chassis again, or maybe go a step further and shape an insert to put more material in the gap... shaped spacer pic shows just the beginning of shaping.. finished shaped would closely match contour of chassis interface.
basically i pulled one of the bottom captured nuts thru the chassis a lil while back. i first passed it off as being 'heavy handed' with the wrench, which isnt unusual for myself.. sat down to replace the pieces today and as usual i investigated a possible way to prevent this from happening. but, i come to find out it was not entirely my heavy hands to blame. but i do think i figured out a solution.
basically in pic one you will a center chassis piece.. right (front) bottom of chassis has a nice 'boss' molded in to prevent pull-thru... left (rear) bottom of chassis simply shows the pass thru hole for the screw, but no 'boss'... all other chassis pieces in kit has the boss to prevent an 'air gap/void' between interlocking pieces which could lead to a collapse then fastener is tightened.. probably just a simple oops in the mold..
basically, i just need to fill the gap..
i think just a simple spacer could do the trick when assembling the chassis again, or maybe go a step further and shape an insert to put more material in the gap... shaped spacer pic shows just the beginning of shaping.. finished shaped would closely match contour of chassis interface.
07-10-2011, 06:05 PM
#4438
07-10-2011, 06:08 PM
#4439
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Kudos for this Stephen and shame on AE for not making this stock to begin with
Simple and brilliant.
Btw, I am using the 2 stock pads on the inside and HT on the outside but thinking I could easily do without the HT slippers from here on.
Last edited by bohdi; 07-11-2011 at 05:14 AM.
07-10-2011, 06:29 PM
#4440
Guys, I highly recommend this slipper mod. Night and day difference with my 4x4. Motor was about 20 degrees cooler (Tekin 5.5 with RX8) and had plenty of bottom end too .
Kudos for this Stephen and shame on AE for not making this stock to begin with
Simple and brilliant.
Btw, I am using the 2 stock pads on the inside an HT on the outside but thinking I could easily do without the HT slippers from here on.
Kudos for this Stephen and shame on AE for not making this stock to begin with
Simple and brilliant.
Btw, I am using the 2 stock pads on the inside an HT on the outside but thinking I could easily do without the HT slippers from here on.
I think this issue is due to a couple things, possibly a tolerancing issue on the spring, spring washer, thread depth on the upper diff shaft, etc. I think the stock locknut bottoms out on the threads of the upper diff shaft before the spring reaches coil bind. I could play around with it and measure, etc, but my time is more valuable than that - the clutch basket is on order. Looking forward to trying it, and interested to see what AE comes up with to fix this, it definitely is an issue I'd like to see fixed.
