5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-29-2011, 05:12 PM
#3886
The problem for me is price. Since I'm not in the US, Tower offer some big discounts, basically It would work out free shipping which will be about US$60. Thats a pretty decent savings and I'm guessing I'm not in too much of a hurry as the Tekin Pro4 motors are awhile away.
06-29-2011, 05:49 PM
#3888
The problem for me is price. Since I'm not in the US, Tower offer some big discounts, basically It would work out free shipping which will be about US$60. Thats a pretty decent savings and I'm guessing I'm not in too much of a hurry as the Tekin Pro4 motors are awhile away.
Good luck with your buy.
06-29-2011, 07:15 PM
#3889
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Where is everyone measuring ride height from? Where the center chassis intersects the front and rear segments, or under the ends of the car? With the the way the bottom slopes it makes a big differece. Thanks guys.
I'm pretty happy with the way my truck handles on the ground, I just need the truck to land smoother. I am thinking about trying reducing the pack(larger holes in the pistons). Has anyone tried that yet? Results?
I'm pretty happy with the way my truck handles on the ground, I just need the truck to land smoother. I am thinking about trying reducing the pack(larger holes in the pistons). Has anyone tried that yet? Results?
06-29-2011, 09:10 PM
#3894
Fill the diff to the top of the planetary gears (the 4 gears that are not attached to your outdrives
Work the gears back and forth, tilt the diff slightly to one side or the other so that the air bubbles work their way to the surface
re-fill the diff to about the top of the planetary gears again, now that the air bubbles are worked out.
Press the other diff half into the diff case, making sure that the gears line up properly. There should be a small amount of diff fluid squeeze out of the diff at the seal. Work the gears back and forth a little and screw it together.
If you are using light fluid, you are pretty much done...if you are using thicker fluid, I suggest also:
orient the diff so that it is laying the same way it would in the truck, with the two outdrives to the sides. This will allow the oil to work it's way in behind both of the Sun gears, and any remaining air will work it's way to the top. Work the outdrives back and forth to loosen the surface tension of the oil/air.
Let it set overnight, then take the diff appart, and stand the two halves on the outdrives. The oil should stay in behind the sun gear on the smaller half, and the air bubbles will work their way to the surface of the larger half.
Let it sit for a bit while you work on something else, then after about a half hour, pour a little bit of oil onto the sun gear on the smaller diff half, then flip it over into the larger casing. again, you should have a little bit of oil squeeze out, and hopefully you will not have any huge air bubbles in the diff casing.
Some air is inevitable, but you want to get as much out as possible.... 60k diff oil that fills the diff will provide different diff action than a diff that is half oil and half air, which will still be different than a diff who's oil barely coats the gears....
06-29-2011, 09:27 PM
#3895
Guys is this motor legal and a good choice for this truck..?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....d=244709666884
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....d=244709666884
b) I know someone managed to shoehorn either a Tekin or a Novak 1/8th scale motor into the motor bay on this truck, but you would have almost no room to play with moving the motor back and forth for gear mesh.... You would have to find the ONE pinion/spur combination that fit the best and stick with it
c) These trucks weigh half as much as an 8th scale buggy/truggy....the vehicles that motor was designed for... you planning on launching that truck into the next state?
Get a motor that was designed for 4x4 SC trucks. I know Hobbywing makes a few that are on the cheaper side...they even have ESCs aimed at SC trucks...
http://www.hobbywing.com/english/Pro...ruck BL System
though for the price, the castle stuff is looking pretty good. I always used to have a prejudice against Castle just because Slaxxas uses them....but the 1410 4 pole is beginning to make me reconsider.... That being said, Tekin will be coming out with their own 4pole soon....
06-29-2011, 09:44 PM
#3896
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,507
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
06-29-2011, 10:12 PM
#3898
You need these diffs FULL of fluid
http://www.teamassociated.com/multim...tial_Assembly/
Last edited by PanicRev; 06-29-2011 at 11:07 PM. Reason: sp.
06-29-2011, 11:35 PM
#3899
Fill the diff to the top of the planetary gears (the 4 gears that are not attached to your outdrives
Work the gears back and forth, tilt the diff slightly to one side or the other so that the air bubbles work their way to the surface
re-fill the diff to about the top of the planetary gears again, now that the air bubbles are worked out.
Press the other diff half into the diff case, making sure that the gears line up properly. There should be a small amount of diff fluid squeeze out of the diff at the seal. Work the gears back and forth a little and screw it together.
If you are using light fluid, you are pretty much done...if you are using thicker fluid, I suggest also:
orient the diff so that it is laying the same way it would in the truck, with the two outdrives to the sides. This will allow the oil to work it's way in behind both of the Sun gears, and any remaining air will work it's way to the top. Work the outdrives back and forth to loosen the surface tension of the oil/air.
Let it set overnight, then take the diff appart, and stand the two halves on the outdrives. The oil should stay in behind the sun gear on the smaller half, and the air bubbles will work their way to the surface of the larger half.
Let it sit for a bit while you work on something else, then after about a half hour, pour a little bit of oil onto the sun gear on the smaller diff half, then flip it over into the larger casing. again, you should have a little bit of oil squeeze out, and hopefully you will not have any huge air bubbles in the diff casing.
Some air is inevitable, but you want to get as much out as possible.... 60k diff oil that fills the diff will provide different diff action than a diff that is half oil and half air, which will still be different than a diff who's oil barely coats the gears....
Work the gears back and forth, tilt the diff slightly to one side or the other so that the air bubbles work their way to the surface
re-fill the diff to about the top of the planetary gears again, now that the air bubbles are worked out.
Press the other diff half into the diff case, making sure that the gears line up properly. There should be a small amount of diff fluid squeeze out of the diff at the seal. Work the gears back and forth a little and screw it together.
If you are using light fluid, you are pretty much done...if you are using thicker fluid, I suggest also:
orient the diff so that it is laying the same way it would in the truck, with the two outdrives to the sides. This will allow the oil to work it's way in behind both of the Sun gears, and any remaining air will work it's way to the top. Work the outdrives back and forth to loosen the surface tension of the oil/air.
Let it set overnight, then take the diff appart, and stand the two halves on the outdrives. The oil should stay in behind the sun gear on the smaller half, and the air bubbles will work their way to the surface of the larger half.
Let it sit for a bit while you work on something else, then after about a half hour, pour a little bit of oil onto the sun gear on the smaller diff half, then flip it over into the larger casing. again, you should have a little bit of oil squeeze out, and hopefully you will not have any huge air bubbles in the diff casing.
Some air is inevitable, but you want to get as much out as possible.... 60k diff oil that fills the diff will provide different diff action than a diff that is half oil and half air, which will still be different than a diff who's oil barely coats the gears....
..Go straight to 4:36..
Good knowledge here, especially how the steering assembly makes the most out of the speed your particular servo has..Servos seem and perform faster on this truck than in others b/c of the steering assembly's inherent mechanical gain..
Cool engineering Team Ae..Just a pain in the but to get to the servo if need be, but no biggie imo..So go for a good torc servo with decent speed and loosen up that servo saver spring from whats recomended on the manual...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6h7MYxPywk
06-30-2011, 02:33 AM
#3900
hot motor
Guys, I'm running the mmp w/Orion Race v2 6.5T geared at 16/93 on a tight indoor med grip track. After about 7-8 mins the motor is coming off at around 195. The esc is barely warm enough for the fan to kick on. A 16 tooth pinion is what was suggested in the manual. Which direction should I go to bring temps down a little?
