5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
12-22-2014, 06:14 PM
I need gearing help. Here is the situation:
Need: I need more top end speed.
Setup: Tekin Pro4 3300kv (540 can), Tekin RX8 (using 20/30 timing). I'm running a 63 tooth spur and have tried a 15 tooth pinion (not enough top end) and have tried a 18 tooth (Decent top end, could use more, having major heat issue though). Running 2s 7.4v lipo
Track: Medium size indoor, large straight away, some small hairpins. Any car can blow by me on the straight.
My question is, where am i going wrong? What can i do to get some more speed. Before I buy spend another $10 on a pinion, i want to get another opinion.
My suspension is perfect and i like where it is.
Thanks Guys
Need: I need more top end speed.
Setup: Tekin Pro4 3300kv (540 can), Tekin RX8 (using 20/30 timing). I'm running a 63 tooth spur and have tried a 15 tooth pinion (not enough top end) and have tried a 18 tooth (Decent top end, could use more, having major heat issue though). Running 2s 7.4v lipo
Track: Medium size indoor, large straight away, some small hairpins. Any car can blow by me on the straight.
My question is, where am i going wrong? What can i do to get some more speed. Before I buy spend another $10 on a pinion, i want to get another opinion.
My suspension is perfect and i like where it is.
Thanks Guys
Or you can take most of the timing out (maybe 10*max) but gear way up higher than that. you can run 16t with a 4k motor so a 3300 should be able to take at least 20t pinion with no timing
12-23-2014, 06:51 AM
Your best bet on 2S may be to get a different motor.
12-23-2014, 08:31 AM
You have too much static timing, gear back up but use boost for timing. your gonna have to play with the start RPM to get it where you want and you may even be able to gear higher than 18. its running hot because of too much timing in the lower rpms. Boost fixes that
Or you can take most of the timing out (maybe 10*max) but gear way up higher than that. you can run 16t with a 4k motor so a 3300 should be able to take at least 20t pinion with no timing
Or you can take most of the timing out (maybe 10*max) but gear way up higher than that. you can run 16t with a 4k motor so a 3300 should be able to take at least 20t pinion with no timing
1. Increase start RPM (I am currently at 850 start and 20k end). How do you figure your start and end times? What's the advantages of starting it sooner/later and ending it sooner/later. I would guess starting it later reduces heat. So maybe crank up the start RPM higher so it only kicks on on the straight?
2. Reduce timing, increase pinion.
12-31-2014, 02:03 PM
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (20)
Does anyone make extended body mounts for these things?
I just got mine put together and would REALLY like to run the Proline Ford Focus rally body I got, but the rear sits WAY too low.
I tried the Proline extended body mounts from my 2wd and they will work with a lot of shaving, but then they won't work on my 2wd...
I just got mine put together and would REALLY like to run the Proline Ford Focus rally body I got, but the rear sits WAY too low.
I tried the Proline extended body mounts from my 2wd and they will work with a lot of shaving, but then they won't work on my 2wd...
01-05-2015, 11:02 AM
Front diff oil / grease for the front and rear on indoor? clay, medium bite.
Still running mine, love it, i went heavy with a Kinwald style brace i made, with dual shorty's. AE 8th scale shocks.
Thinking about, either making a graphite 3mm chassis, or retro fitting it to a RC8 Chassis. Then new shock towers, with better ball stud mounting options, will post when i get them done.
Currently looking for better shock caps for the AE 16 MMs, the mounts suck.
Anyone ever try to offset the motor more to the center? if i do it right, i think it would be shifted 4 mm to the center without to much dremeling. just wondering if it would help?
Still running mine, love it, i went heavy with a Kinwald style brace i made, with dual shorty's. AE 8th scale shocks.
Thinking about, either making a graphite 3mm chassis, or retro fitting it to a RC8 Chassis. Then new shock towers, with better ball stud mounting options, will post when i get them done.
Currently looking for better shock caps for the AE 16 MMs, the mounts suck.
Anyone ever try to offset the motor more to the center? if i do it right, i think it would be shifted 4 mm to the center without to much dremeling. just wondering if it would help?
01-05-2015, 01:33 PM
Front diff oil / grease for the front and rear on indoor? clay, medium bite.
Still running mine, love it, i went heavy with a Kinwald style brace i made, with dual shorty's. AE 8th scale shocks.
Thinking about, either making a graphite 3mm chassis, or retro fitting it to a RC8 Chassis. Then new shock towers, with better ball stud mounting options, will post when i get them done.
Currently looking for better shock caps for the AE 16 MMs, the mounts suck.
Anyone ever try to offset the motor more to the center? if i do it right, i think it would be shifted 4 mm to the center without to much dremeling. just wondering if it would help?
Still running mine, love it, i went heavy with a Kinwald style brace i made, with dual shorty's. AE 8th scale shocks.
Thinking about, either making a graphite 3mm chassis, or retro fitting it to a RC8 Chassis. Then new shock towers, with better ball stud mounting options, will post when i get them done.
Currently looking for better shock caps for the AE 16 MMs, the mounts suck.
Anyone ever try to offset the motor more to the center? if i do it right, i think it would be shifted 4 mm to the center without to much dremeling. just wondering if it would help?
For a center diff, 7-10K with 5K in the rear. 5K in the rear seemed popular all the time lol.
01-05-2015, 04:24 PM
Tech Addict
Shock caps
Try the on your shock bodies
But don't force the fit
I am not sure about the threads
01-06-2015, 07:02 AM
Ok, i know GHEA makes a set for $50 some, buts thats a bit much. I thought i read somewhere that the Kyosho ones and the HB fit but not sure.
I seen an add in the classifieds for an RC8 that had HB caps on it. So i will give em a try i guess, just hate returning crap.
I seen an add in the classifieds for an RC8 that had HB caps on it. So i will give em a try i guess, just hate returning crap.
01-15-2015, 07:47 AM
Tech Rookie
iTrader: (4)
Wow, there is a lot of helpful info on this thread. Surprising to see less activity and a generally low vibe towards the SC10 4x4. After enjoying the 2wd and reviewing 4x4 options on a cost-value-fun ratio analysis we landed on the FT sc10 4x4. I picked up a slightly used one with a mm max pro esc, castle 1410, and a new set of badlands for $180. Over the past two months I have had a great time with it.
I will report in as I progress as a complete newb to this hobby. Our local track is out door and it is the northwest so an initial question I have is what over tray or cover people like if any? Thanks.
I will report in as I progress as a complete newb to this hobby. Our local track is out door and it is the northwest so an initial question I have is what over tray or cover people like if any? Thanks.
01-15-2015, 10:13 AM
for overtray I personally liked the outerwears setup as it allows stuff underneath to breath but does a great job keeping crap out.
01-15-2015, 10:21 AM
A while back I let my kid race my SC10 4x4. I turned on drag brake up to 20% so he doesn't crash into things. For myself I have always used 0% in all my 4wd cars. After I took the truck back this week I forgot to turn off drag brake. Truck drove better then it ever has, I was surprised. Those of you not running any might want to try it.
01-15-2015, 10:25 AM
I think I ran alittle on mine back in the day. But I was on a very very tight track too.
01-16-2015, 08:32 AM
Tech Rookie
Fun
I would like to mount a Tekno truggy body or Stadium truck body on my sc10 4x4. I like to create my own concoctions. Just throwing ideas out there. Anyone else have some ideas?
01-16-2015, 08:35 AM
could see stadium body as a possiblity, or do a 1/8 buggy body too.
01-17-2015, 10:32 PM
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (20)
Here is my latest concoction.
It is a pro-line Ford Focus Rallye body.
Since no one makes extended body mounts for the 4x4, I rigged up the body mounts from the AE Pro Rally car. It looks great, but I will find out tomorrow how well it races.
It is a pro-line Ford Focus Rallye body.
Since no one makes extended body mounts for the 4x4, I rigged up the body mounts from the AE Pro Rally car. It looks great, but I will find out tomorrow how well it races.
