SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)
great race, you can see CB bump and wait during the race, which is great track/race etiquette not seen very much at a lot of tracks anymore. The car that was leading at first had to be thinking "Chad Bradley is reeling me in!!!" A lot of pressure .
Shark were you in this race? BTW, Chad Bradley is a great guy. I met him at a Nitro Challenge race a few years back. He was with Jay Halsey and Gary Guest. Very nice guys and were helpful to a newb like me, at the time...
Also, I see you are hard at it again with the SC104x4. Nice setup you have on the "Shark Ultralite". nice work Bro. You should be sponsored dude! Do me a favor? Come visit RCTEN.com, (the ADMIN's is a great guy) it's a nice forum and your know-how would help a lot of racers on that forum. Lemme know, thanks.
Shark were you in this race? BTW, Chad Bradley is a great guy. I met him at a Nitro Challenge race a few years back. He was with Jay Halsey and Gary Guest. Very nice guys and were helpful to a newb like me, at the time...
Also, I see you are hard at it again with the SC104x4. Nice setup you have on the "Shark Ultralite". nice work Bro. You should be sponsored dude! Do me a favor? Come visit RCTEN.com, (the ADMIN's is a great guy) it's a nice forum and your know-how would help a lot of racers on that forum. Lemme know, thanks.
ABN Hoosier, I am usually there every weekend but the week I miss Chad shows up. He is a cool guy, I raced with him a few times over at Hot Rod Hobbies (another local track). You notice how he did not flip (crash) at all, even with some hacking going on. And I think he is still running Ofna when he races SC. But I do race with all the other guys in the video.
I will definitely check out RCTEN.com.
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Reedy announced details on their SQ packs (shaped like a square & supposedly same dimensions as saddle pack w/o the jumper so should fit perfect) Looks like it weighs 40g more than 5700 65c saddles
Reedy LiPo 5800mAh 65C 7.4V SQ
UPC: 784695 003149
Available: Nov. 2013
#314 Specifications:
Capacity 5800mAh
Voltage 7.4V (2S)
Dimensions (mm) 93 x 68.5 x 25.1
Max. Charge Current 11.6 (2C)
Discharge 65C cont., 120C burst
Weight (g) 318
http://teamassociated.com/news/lates...n_LiPo_Battery
Reedy LiPo 5800mAh 65C 7.4V SQ
UPC: 784695 003149
Available: Nov. 2013
#314 Specifications:
Capacity 5800mAh
Voltage 7.4V (2S)
Dimensions (mm) 93 x 68.5 x 25.1
Max. Charge Current 11.6 (2C)
Discharge 65C cont., 120C burst
Weight (g) 318
http://teamassociated.com/news/lates...n_LiPo_Battery
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Is it worth getting a chassis brace or you don't really need it.
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
ABN Hoosier, I am usually there every weekend but the week I miss Chad shows up. He is a cool guy, I raced with him a few times over at Hot Rod Hobbies (another local track). You notice how he did not flip (crash) at all, even with some hacking going on. And I think he is still running Ofna when he races SC. But I do race with all the other guys in the video.
I will definitely check out RCTEN.com.
I will definitely check out RCTEN.com.
Shark, glad to hear from you again, hope to see you over there!
Yes it is but you can also make one out of a hollow carbon fiber rod with a fully threaded 440 rod and use any shock ends to mount onto the chassis. Just use the existing hole on the front body mount and drill a hole on top of the motor housing. This reduces the amount of chassis flex during nose dives and will also prevent the belt from skipping on the drive pulley.
Tech Apprentice
I would consider this one of the "must haves" for the truck. If you are running an Exotek chassis you may be good without but I cannot say for certain as I have not tried.
You can make one as gtfour mentioned (really very easy to make) or you can buy the parts from the FT kit and convert it.
It really is worth having.
You can make one as gtfour mentioned (really very easy to make) or you can buy the parts from the FT kit and convert it.
It really is worth having.
Tech Apprentice
go over on RC short course.com and find my post on the custom brace mob modhttp://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...sis-brace.htmlstill the last post
Tech Apprentice
Diff Compare-O-
Our clubs results are finally posted so I can show my results. The timing could not be better with all of the recent posts on this but to be honest this debate has been going on for 2000+ pages so I wanted to see if what I feel translated into actual times.
To start I want to say this comparison is over a month and a half on an outdoor track so the conditions obviously change from race to race. I am not lucky enough to have access to a facility where I can run laps on a timing system for testing. Instead this is 3 different race days. What I can tell you is that I ran the same setup other than changing the rear camber from -2 to -3 on the 2nd race day and back to -2 on the 3rd ... otherwise all other settings stayed the same.
I have been using the c-diff for quite some time and prefer it for my conditions which are dry'ish, loose and rough so I may be a bit biased but hopefully this did not reflect in my driving.
My thoughts on the diffs that I have tried on my truck:
First came the stock slipper and it was junk in my opinion. I ended up getting some Garos after reading good about them and noticed a huge difference.
The VTS came out so got that. With HD pads it is okay. I am not one for controlling wheel spin with a slipper, rather I like to use throttle control. My main issue with this setup is that I am not able to get rid of the slipping no matter how tight I make the nut and due to glazing it only gets worse.
The VTS with Garos is good for me as I am able to tighten it to the point where it does not slip (or at least not that I notice). I found this very helpful last year when I was racing on pavement with the truck. A real bonus to the Garos is that they did not glaze which, if you want a slipper to slip, would lead to a very consistent feel.
The c-diff ... my favorite. I started with the v1 when it came out and really did like it on loose dirt. I got the v2 conversion when it was introduced and found the adjustability via pin count to be great for settling down the rear end on heavy acceleration out of the corners. I will warn anyone thinking about this unit that it does require some maintenance. I end up with dust inside my covers which cakes on the diff lube. My worry is that it will cause accelerated wear to the pins so I tend to clean and re-lube after each race day. It may not be needed but it is what I do.
So, you know my reasons for liking or not liking the various diffs that I have tried. Now for the numbers. I have covered the names of the innocent but left mine so you know which times are mine.
Any chance that anyone else has done this? If not I would be interested in seeing someone who has access to a timed facility for testing try this out. Perhaps WC or someone else with access to clay could try it as well. It would be interesting to see the results as I am sure they may change depending upon surfaces.
Not shooting for a sales pitch here, just hoping my thoughts as well as results may help someone if they are leaning one way or another.
To start I want to say this comparison is over a month and a half on an outdoor track so the conditions obviously change from race to race. I am not lucky enough to have access to a facility where I can run laps on a timing system for testing. Instead this is 3 different race days. What I can tell you is that I ran the same setup other than changing the rear camber from -2 to -3 on the 2nd race day and back to -2 on the 3rd ... otherwise all other settings stayed the same.
I have been using the c-diff for quite some time and prefer it for my conditions which are dry'ish, loose and rough so I may be a bit biased but hopefully this did not reflect in my driving.
My thoughts on the diffs that I have tried on my truck:
First came the stock slipper and it was junk in my opinion. I ended up getting some Garos after reading good about them and noticed a huge difference.
The VTS came out so got that. With HD pads it is okay. I am not one for controlling wheel spin with a slipper, rather I like to use throttle control. My main issue with this setup is that I am not able to get rid of the slipping no matter how tight I make the nut and due to glazing it only gets worse.
The VTS with Garos is good for me as I am able to tighten it to the point where it does not slip (or at least not that I notice). I found this very helpful last year when I was racing on pavement with the truck. A real bonus to the Garos is that they did not glaze which, if you want a slipper to slip, would lead to a very consistent feel.
The c-diff ... my favorite. I started with the v1 when it came out and really did like it on loose dirt. I got the v2 conversion when it was introduced and found the adjustability via pin count to be great for settling down the rear end on heavy acceleration out of the corners. I will warn anyone thinking about this unit that it does require some maintenance. I end up with dust inside my covers which cakes on the diff lube. My worry is that it will cause accelerated wear to the pins so I tend to clean and re-lube after each race day. It may not be needed but it is what I do.
So, you know my reasons for liking or not liking the various diffs that I have tried. Now for the numbers. I have covered the names of the innocent but left mine so you know which times are mine.
Any chance that anyone else has done this? If not I would be interested in seeing someone who has access to a timed facility for testing try this out. Perhaps WC or someone else with access to clay could try it as well. It would be interesting to see the results as I am sure they may change depending upon surfaces.
Not shooting for a sales pitch here, just hoping my thoughts as well as results may help someone if they are leaning one way or another.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)
Would you guys suggest running the center saddle pack setup over the side stick pack setup? Thnx
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
I would definitely recommend it. Or u might buy a shortie lipo and run it sideways. I have the original sc10 4x4 and a Ft truck and its night and day over the original truck. The saddle pack setup is definitely better imo. There are several options for this truck at this point you should try them all but I'm very happy with saddle packs myself.
Our clubs results are finally posted so I can show my results. The timing could not be better with all of the recent posts on this but to be honest this debate has been going on for 2000+ pages so I wanted to see if what I feel translated into actual times.
To start I want to say this comparison is over a month and a half on an outdoor track so the conditions obviously change from race to race. I am not lucky enough to have access to a facility where I can run laps on a timing system for testing. Instead this is 3 different race days. What I can tell you is that I ran the same setup other than changing the rear camber from -2 to -3 on the 2nd race day and back to -2 on the 3rd ... otherwise all other settings stayed the same.
I have been using the c-diff for quite some time and prefer it for my conditions which are dry'ish, loose and rough so I may be a bit biased but hopefully this did not reflect in my driving.
My thoughts on the diffs that I have tried on my truck:
First came the stock slipper and it was junk in my opinion. I ended up getting some Garos after reading good about them and noticed a huge difference.
The VTS came out so got that. With HD pads it is okay. I am not one for controlling wheel spin with a slipper, rather I like to use throttle control. My main issue with this setup is that I am not able to get rid of the slipping no matter how tight I make the nut and due to glazing it only gets worse.
The VTS with Garos is good for me as I am able to tighten it to the point where it does not slip (or at least not that I notice). I found this very helpful last year when I was racing on pavement with the truck. A real bonus to the Garos is that they did not glaze which, if you want a slipper to slip, would lead to a very consistent feel.
The c-diff ... my favorite. I started with the v1 when it came out and really did like it on loose dirt. I got the v2 conversion when it was introduced and found the adjustability via pin count to be great for settling down the rear end on heavy acceleration out of the corners. I will warn anyone thinking about this unit that it does require some maintenance. I end up with dust inside my covers which cakes on the diff lube. My worry is that it will cause accelerated wear to the pins so I tend to clean and re-lube after each race day. It may not be needed but it is what I do.
So, you know my reasons for liking or not liking the various diffs that I have tried. Now for the numbers. I have covered the names of the innocent but left mine so you know which times are mine.
Any chance that anyone else has done this? If not I would be interested in seeing someone who has access to a timed facility for testing try this out. Perhaps WC or someone else with access to clay could try it as well. It would be interesting to see the results as I am sure they may change depending upon surfaces.
Not shooting for a sales pitch here, just hoping my thoughts as well as results may help someone if they are leaning one way or another.
To start I want to say this comparison is over a month and a half on an outdoor track so the conditions obviously change from race to race. I am not lucky enough to have access to a facility where I can run laps on a timing system for testing. Instead this is 3 different race days. What I can tell you is that I ran the same setup other than changing the rear camber from -2 to -3 on the 2nd race day and back to -2 on the 3rd ... otherwise all other settings stayed the same.
I have been using the c-diff for quite some time and prefer it for my conditions which are dry'ish, loose and rough so I may be a bit biased but hopefully this did not reflect in my driving.
My thoughts on the diffs that I have tried on my truck:
First came the stock slipper and it was junk in my opinion. I ended up getting some Garos after reading good about them and noticed a huge difference.
The VTS came out so got that. With HD pads it is okay. I am not one for controlling wheel spin with a slipper, rather I like to use throttle control. My main issue with this setup is that I am not able to get rid of the slipping no matter how tight I make the nut and due to glazing it only gets worse.
The VTS with Garos is good for me as I am able to tighten it to the point where it does not slip (or at least not that I notice). I found this very helpful last year when I was racing on pavement with the truck. A real bonus to the Garos is that they did not glaze which, if you want a slipper to slip, would lead to a very consistent feel.
The c-diff ... my favorite. I started with the v1 when it came out and really did like it on loose dirt. I got the v2 conversion when it was introduced and found the adjustability via pin count to be great for settling down the rear end on heavy acceleration out of the corners. I will warn anyone thinking about this unit that it does require some maintenance. I end up with dust inside my covers which cakes on the diff lube. My worry is that it will cause accelerated wear to the pins so I tend to clean and re-lube after each race day. It may not be needed but it is what I do.
So, you know my reasons for liking or not liking the various diffs that I have tried. Now for the numbers. I have covered the names of the innocent but left mine so you know which times are mine.
Any chance that anyone else has done this? If not I would be interested in seeing someone who has access to a timed facility for testing try this out. Perhaps WC or someone else with access to clay could try it as well. It would be interesting to see the results as I am sure they may change depending upon surfaces.
Not shooting for a sales pitch here, just hoping my thoughts as well as results may help someone if they are leaning one way or another.
The only supporter on here for the slipper is that his WC