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Old 06-19-2011, 07:37 PM
  #3421  
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Originally Posted by Matt Howard
More antisquat generally lets the rear rotate more off power, I haven't heard of one person that needs more off power steering with this truck
Nope I'm good there.

What has everyone done to improve rear traction?

I shifted the battery all the way to the rear so far with good results.

I can't wait to run this thing again. The only other mod I'm going to do is go up in pinion gear to get the motor temp down.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:39 PM
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unscrewing the rear shock eyelet really locked my rear end down, if you haven't tried it, you're missing out

and swaybars front and rear helped alot to

Last edited by Matt Howard; 06-19-2011 at 07:40 PM. Reason: added stuff
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:40 PM
  #3423  
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I bet the ass sags real low.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:42 PM
  #3424  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
try a 15/16 , go up not down.
OK ill try going up .I'm running indoor and i don't need much top speed so i thought going up might be bad ? I'm usually just punching it to get over jumps then slow down fast and do it all over ..o and I'm running full packs like 15-20 Min's i guess i check temps like 3 times and 1ST 6 mins is cool like 145 but towards end of pack it heats up to like 190 Ive hit 215 before..
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:43 PM
  #3425  
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if its that tight you may go up even higher , the higher the pinion the less load is put on the motor.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:44 PM
  #3426  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Nope I'm good there.

What has everyone done to improve rear traction?

I shifted the battery all the way to the rear so far with good results.

I can't wait to run this thing again. The only other mod I'm going to do is go up in pinion gear to get the motor temp down.
I am going to try this setup:

5k rear diff, 7 or 10k front diff.
Losi 8ight front/rear sways
16/62 gearing with mmp/sc4x (will trying diff. gearing if nec.)
Barcodes or suburbs all around (I run on hard packed clay track)
30 or 32.5w rear shocks, 35w front
And mess around with ride height after a few runs on the track.....

I hope to have my sc10 pretty much dialed before the big race the end of july at my local track.....
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:49 PM
  #3427  
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oh yea I want to run 10k front diff wt.

Is it a giant p.i.t.a? to take it out? I'm getting lazier in my older years.

I really like the soft shock oil on my truck, soaks up the bumps. I think I might go with softer oil on my 2wd now

There is a hardpacked clay around here that is kinda blue groove let me know what you come up with for a good combo.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:01 PM
  #3428  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
if its that tight you may go up even higher , the higher the pinion the less load is put on the motor.
ok cool
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:02 PM
  #3429  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
oh yea I want to run 10k front diff wt.

Is it a giant p.i.t.a? to take it out? I'm getting lazier in my older years.

I really like the soft shock oil on my truck, soaks up the bumps. I think I might go with softer oil on my 2wd now

There is a hardpacked clay around here that is kinda blue groove let me know what you come up with for a good combo.
It gets easier as you get used to taking it apart.......
I wouldn't go to soft on the shock oil though, the lowest I'd go on the rear is 25wt.....

I also like to run it with clicker on for now because it seems to me it handles better for my style of driving, and iono if its just me but my motor seems to run cooler with clicker on as opposed to off.......
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:03 PM
  #3430  
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Funny how we almost wrote the same exact thing word for word.

Im wanting the lightweight topshaft and the lightweight outdrives. I hope the outdrives will be out soon.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:09 PM
  #3431  
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Originally posted by JEFFs SC10: "the higher the pinion the less load is put on the motor."

What? Just the opposite is true. Bigger pinion = more top speed, less acceleration , more amp draw, more heat! Smaller pinion = more acceleration, less top speed, less heat. The only exception to that would be if you are WAY undergeared (pinion too small), the motor is screaming at high RPM's and can run hot.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:15 PM
  #3432  
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We're thinking opposite LOL
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:18 PM
  #3433  
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Originally Posted by TheBackmarker
Originally posted by JEFFs SC10: "the higher the pinion the less load is put on the motor."

What? Just the opposite is true. Bigger pinion = more top speed, less acceleration , more amp draw, more heat! Smaller pinion = more acceleration, less top speed, less heat. The only exception to that would be if you are WAY undergeared (pinion too small), the motor is screaming at high RPM's and can run hot.
ya thats what i was thinking originally ,,im buying a few it looks like
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:18 PM
  #3434  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
oh yea I want to run 10k front diff wt.

Is it a giant p.i.t.a? to take it out? I'm getting lazier in my older years.

I really like the soft shock oil on my truck, soaks up the bumps. I think I might go with softer oil on my 2wd now

There is a hardpacked clay around here that is kinda blue groove let me know what you come up with for a good combo.
ThunderbirdJunkie can R&R his front diff in under 20 minutes now. It's cake
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:28 PM
  #3435  
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This notice is posted on Novak's website and it applies to all brands of motors.

http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/infor..._motor_doc.pdf

Hope you find it useful.
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