Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree5Likes

SC10 4x4 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-01-2013, 02:41 PM
  #34321  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Alabama
Posts: 255
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I'm trying to run the +3 mm wheels and the lug nuts are not tighting up witch lugs nuts do I need I am just useing the ones that came in the kit?
jrk078 is offline  
Old 06-01-2013, 02:47 PM
  #34322  
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Traxxas
4mm serrated wheel nut
TRA 2747R
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 06-01-2013, 05:27 PM
  #34323  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
 
sugs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 795
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by cantrell8
I am running the viper vxt10r and a viper 5.5
What kind of temps are you seeing? Fan on the motor?
sugs is offline  
Old 06-01-2013, 05:55 PM
  #34324  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
cantrell8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: tacoma
Posts: 1,343
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sugs
What kind of temps are you seeing? Fan on the motor?
About 180 after 8 min. With a fan between the esc and motor. I'm geared at 93/15 48p
cantrell8 is offline  
Old 06-01-2013, 06:26 PM
  #34325  
Tech Master
iTrader: (64)
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,422
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
Default

Im getting a striping noise towards the rear of my SC104x4 pinion gear side. Its light at full throttle going straight but when i make hard left turns with throttle it's aggressive. It sounds like pinion and spur gear or belt but checked both off those and they look fine. Do you think i have to go into the tranny? I am the origanl owner of this truck and i only had it 2 Months now with not alot of run time.
wileycat is offline  
Old 06-01-2013, 06:57 PM
  #34326  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
cantrell8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: tacoma
Posts: 1,343
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Geo's gettin it handed to him tonight!
cantrell8 is offline  
Old 06-01-2013, 11:17 PM
  #34327  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Northern Arizona
Posts: 92
Default

Originally Posted by TomErickson
Thanks for your insights. Wow...2608gms is really good. The ROAR specs are 2505gm. Did you add any weight? What is your weight balance?

For Shorty packs I noticed most are locating them transverse and forward. Any chance that a central mounting works even better? I have the my ESC on the right side so the center chassis area is free for whatever I want to do. Placing in along the center line would reduce chassis role but may require more added weight to balance out the chassis.

Once I get a chance I plan to get 4 scales so I can see what added weight I will need to add to get a 25/25/25/25 weight balance.
No weight added, I have had great luck keeping it light and do not have larger jumps that most seem to find the added weight beneficial for.

My battery is mounted as far forward and right as possible. I did that to get as much weight forward as well as help to balance things left to right. I have tried a full stick down the middle as well as the shorty but found that the best balance and handling for me is the current setup. Once you get the scales try not to go nuts balancing the thing, you may be able to get it perfect but as soon as you take it off and put it back out the weight will be different

As of tonight I have the following:
Front left - 600.1g Front right - 596g Rear left - 695.7g Rear right - 717.2g. Tonight it weights 2609 ... no clue why but it pretty much changes every time I weight it like I mentioned before.

All the fancy math tells me that I have 45.8% front , 54.2% rear, 49.7% left with 50.3% right giving a cross wedge of 49.5%.

The biggest gains for me have been Marcus' pistons and v2 center diff. They work wonders for loose rough tracks.
AzFittin is offline  
Old 06-01-2013, 11:28 PM
  #34328  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
 
fq06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,646
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by AzFittin
No weight added, I have had great luck keeping it light and do not have larger jumps that most seem to find the added weight beneficial for.

My battery is mounted as far forward and right as possible. I did that to get as much weight forward as well as help to balance things left to right. I have tried a full stick down the middle as well as the shorty but found that the best balance and handling for me is the current setup. Once you get the scales try not to go nuts balancing the thing, you may be able to get it perfect but as soon as you take it off and put it back out the weight will be different

As of tonight I have the following:
Front left - 600.1g Front right - 596g Rear left - 695.7g Rear right - 717.2g. Tonight it weights 2609 ... no clue why but it pretty much changes every time I weight it like I mentioned before.

All the fancy math tells me that I have 45.8% front , 54.2% rear, 49.7% left with 50.3% right giving a cross wedge of 49.5%.

The biggest gains for me have been Marcus' pistons and v2 center diff. They work wonders for loose rough tracks.
If you had fixed rods as opposed to shocks, you would get the same readings. Using scales with rods gives you chassis weight bias f/r & l/r. Use shocks and your spring collar height is changing the corner balance. How the spring settles when you place it on the scales, too many variables.
fq06 is offline  
Old 06-01-2013, 11:31 PM
  #34329  
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Originally Posted by cantrell8
Geo's gettin it handed to him tonight!
Tq tonight and from the back ...


The Ae VTS quad pad slipper & my Ae Sc10 4x4 1.2 contoured shock pistons made it all possible ..
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 06-02-2013, 12:03 AM
  #34330  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Northern Arizona
Posts: 92
Default

Originally Posted by fq06
If you had fixed rods as opposed to shocks, you would get the same readings. Using scales with rods gives you chassis weight bias f/r & l/r. Use shocks and your spring collar height is changing the corner balance. How the spring settles when you place it on the scales, too many variables.
Yup. Have balanced it with rims (no tires) and turnbuckles instead of shocks but noticed that the ceiling fan running could add several tenths of a gram ... at that point I figured it was silly for me to worry as much as I was. Always room for me to improve my driving and getting it perfect does not exist in my opinion as dirt will change it all
AzFittin is offline  
Old 06-02-2013, 12:18 AM
  #34331  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Northern Arizona
Posts: 92
Default

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Tq tonight and from the back ...


The Ae VTS quad pad slipper & my Ae Sc10 4x4 1.2 contoured shock pistons made it all possible ..
Nice that those are working for you in those conditions.. next time I race indoor glass smooth clay I will make sure change my setup accordingly. Tho I will probably start with the vts and a pair of garos as they worked great when I was pavement racing.
AzFittin is offline  
Old 06-02-2013, 12:22 AM
  #34332  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
cantrell8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: tacoma
Posts: 1,343
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Tq tonight and from the back ...


The Ae VTS quad pad slipper & my Ae Sc10 4x4 1.2 contoured shock pistons made it all possible ..
and you blew it in the main!!
cantrell8 is offline  
Old 06-02-2013, 08:49 AM
  #34333  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
BlueGlowBoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 1,676
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys,
Trying to get my SC104x4 ready for the track now that it is finally almost open (yay long winters followed by lots of rain!!)

Any suggestions to help with the issue described below will be greatly appreciated!

Current layout is the same as the end of last year, and I loved my truck through 90% of the track, but the middle rhythm section was killing me. Coming into the first jump, you could hear my truck slap the face of the jump and then again on the landing. which would cause me to lose a ton of speed, and the truck just would not fly consistently.

I currently have (Front/rear):
blue front spring/blue rear spring,
30/25 AE oils, emulsion with almost zero rebound (I see bladders with no bleed screw is recommended....may have to order some new bladders....)
24/23mm ride height

I'm running almost everything else stock (no added weight, no exotek chassis, just garodiscs and dual-stage pistons bought in 2011), but I do have a 550, RX8, and heavy Reedy batteries. Total truck weight, ready to race, is 2870g, and from a crude measurement, I've got about a 44/56 front/rear weight distribution....(that seems excessive, even for this truck, yes?)

Here's our track, and I've got the video set up to start right when the lead truggy comes into the rhythm section....it's kind of a double double double, but it's the first double that kills me. I don't seem to have trouble on any of the other jumps that seem just as steep....

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Sorry I don't have any video of me on the track....we've been rained out since the snow left.... If we get a practice night this week, I'll get someone to record my truck....
BlueGlowBoy is offline  
Old 06-02-2013, 09:05 AM
  #34334  
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Originally Posted by AzFittin
Nice that those are working for you in those conditions.. next time I race indoor glass smooth clay I will make sure change my setup accordingly. Tho I will probably start with the vts and a pair of garos as they worked great when I was pavement racing.


Only thing I would change if running out doors would be switching the yellow rear spring for the blue & the tires ...

Lite setup will kick azz ...

BTW
Good luck with those garos ........


candrell

Good times yesterday, was a little burnt out for the main from hanging out at the track all day long ...

Blue BOY !!!
Sorry Bro Ham , would of watched the video but its too early in the morning for stinky trucks ....
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 06-02-2013, 11:04 AM
  #34335  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: T4.1
Posts: 3
Default

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Jeff welcome to the thread



Don't lock the Servo saver !!!!
adjust so 1 to 2 mm of threads show above the lock nut

Servo for RTR is a low cost servo , not very strong .
Can replace the gears for any servo easy and they are inexpensive.
I opened the servo and confirmed a stripped gear. While playing with the movement I notice the entire circumference of the gear doesn't get used. I pulled the gear off, rotated the gear so that the stripped part is on the other end. I put the servo back together, installed it in the SC10 4x4 and it is working great. I'll have to see how long it will hold up now.

Also, can anyone suggest the optimal servo for SC10 4x4?

Thanks!
Bler702 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.