SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
yes. I ran an sc10 4x4 with the following aftermarket parts:
- Exotek Chassis with inline saddle conversion
- RC Shox Ball diff
- RC Shox 2 stage pistons
- M2C Rear toe in block
The rapid action of the 2 stage pistons I really liked on any rumble (indoor carpet) or rutted section of the track. smooth surfaces they performed pretty much like the stock pistons which makes sense as the benefit to them is on rough surfaces.
as a side note, I didn't run any additional weight on my sc10 4x4, and I was running a Pro4 4000Kv Tekin motor, before that a Tekin 5.5 SCX 550 2 Pole motor.
Found the setup sheet, for swaybars outdoors loose setup I was running 1.8mm up front, and 1.5mm in the rear.
- Exotek Chassis with inline saddle conversion
- RC Shox Ball diff
- RC Shox 2 stage pistons
- M2C Rear toe in block
The rapid action of the 2 stage pistons I really liked on any rumble (indoor carpet) or rutted section of the track. smooth surfaces they performed pretty much like the stock pistons which makes sense as the benefit to them is on rough surfaces.
as a side note, I didn't run any additional weight on my sc10 4x4, and I was running a Pro4 4000Kv Tekin motor, before that a Tekin 5.5 SCX 550 2 Pole motor.
Found the setup sheet, for swaybars outdoors loose setup I was running 1.8mm up front, and 1.5mm in the rear.
^ I drove his truck. Other than some fine tuning and some practice, it'll be fast against two other guys that are crazy fast with a Tekno and an SCTE.
Stiffening the rear springs and getting the roll center correct seems to be the biggest things.
Stiffening the rear springs and getting the roll center correct seems to be the biggest things.
TY
racing at trcr is legit.
Had a big B main as well.
Sc4x4 is very popular here & still growing.
racing at trcr is legit.
Had a big B main as well.
Sc4x4 is very popular here & still growing.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
My new layout and body I jus got done painting. Ready for more racing on Wednesday. Going to do a few more mods... Dye the clicker gears black, cut more of the belt protection off to clean it up, and probably play with the wiring a bit to make it clean.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Anybody have any info on Max Flurer's winning Associated at the Psycho Nitro Blast? Can't find anything.
Chop Chop Chop
kool to hear Max got her done ...
That was a big Moto cross style track layout with big -O-jumps ...
That was a big Moto cross style track layout with big -O-jumps ...
Yellow rear springs feel pretty darn good at my track. Going to a blue front on the rear seems like a drastic change. Yellow is 3.10 lbs vs the blue 4.30. That's more than a pound!
Even the lightest front spring 3.5 green is a bit stiff.
Even the lightest front spring 3.5 green is a bit stiff.
If you test with a stop watch ?
The blue ft on the rear is very stiff , on the 180 they will steal to much roll and the truck will not steer as well .....Laps times slow down ...
Makes the truck looser and can step out unexpected .
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
Those look like AE bronze fronts to me. That's a 4.74 rate - almost as stiff as a yellow front at 4.8.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
I like that splattered paint job! Truck looks good!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Aren't the bronze springs the stiffest rc8 springs you can get. It's funny I run silvers all the way around on my Rc8Be and it's way heavier than a sc10 4x4. I also run silvers all the way around on my sc8be. I just don't get the stiffer springs certain people keep pushing, every time I've tried it turns my cars/trucks into drift kings. Different strokes I guess. I like a little chassis lean and some weight transfer. I usually go with a little softer springs and a little bit heavier oil. Then again im not the fastest driver but last week my fastest lap was 3 tenths slower than the fastest racers lap the night before so I must be doing something right. Weird. I'm still running blue fronts on the front and blue rears on the rear. My advise, tune your suspension for what feels good to you, there are just to many variables to say run this and it will be better. Know what I'm sayin player's. ..
Tech Rookie
I built an sc10 4x4. when It was completed I went to test drive it and the front wheels wont turn. Any help would greatly be appreciated. I wanted to get so info before i took it apart. Thanks
If you used a longer 14 mm it will lock the steering ..
Also check if you aline the servo correctly, the servo horn can bump into the chassis if not correct..
If the wheels will not turn ?
Check if the screws mounting the front transmission onto the chassis, if too long can lock transmission .
Also the ck the top screws use to mount the shock tower to the transmission if they are correct lenght.
last , check the transmission screws for the transmission case to the motor plate , if screwed in too much can stick though and bind the front pulley..
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 03-26-2013 at 08:04 AM.
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
by turn do you mean from left to right, or, do you mean rotate?
So as I update my SC10 4x4 I am planning to remove the belt tunnel. Is there any reason to keep it? I am a racer and will be racing on all types of tracks from hard packed clay to soft loamy dirt. Should I be concerned?