5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-15-2011, 07:23 PM
#3271
Heres your problem with your slipper.
#1 you put the washer under the wrong end of the spring.
Take your slipper spring off and look at the shaft. You will see the shaft
has a cone tapper just before the threads. Looking at this you will see the
spring retainer bottoms out against the cone before you can get max
tension against the slipper. So putting it at the wrong end as you did makes
the problem worse. The washer needs to be on the aluminum slipper plate
not the nut end.
So what I did was go to Ace Hardware in their nut and bolt department
they have a chrome & black chrome nut/bolt/washer section. There is a
chrome & black chrome washer there that fits the outer slipper hub
perfectly for shimming the spring. Take your outer slipper hub with you
because thanks to the chroming prosess some fit better then others.
Now you will keep your slipper spring free to put max tension against the
slipper pads instead of making the problem worse like you did by putting
the washer under the nut.
This works great, I have fixed many SC10 4x4 slippers at the tracks I race
at this way. At the track I don't have these washers with me but a quick
fix at the track is to take the blue aluminum servo arm retainer that most
people have laying around in their tool box and use that till you can get to
Ace Hardware to get the correct fitting washer.
Good luck, I hope this helps till AE gets this fixed along with everything else
they need to fix on the SC10 4x4....
BTW: AE if your listening, you need to make a longer & stronger slipper
spring for the SC10 4x4 (I'm sure you know this already though")
#1 you put the washer under the wrong end of the spring.
Take your slipper spring off and look at the shaft. You will see the shaft
has a cone tapper just before the threads. Looking at this you will see the
spring retainer bottoms out against the cone before you can get max
tension against the slipper. So putting it at the wrong end as you did makes
the problem worse. The washer needs to be on the aluminum slipper plate
not the nut end.
So what I did was go to Ace Hardware in their nut and bolt department
they have a chrome & black chrome nut/bolt/washer section. There is a
chrome & black chrome washer there that fits the outer slipper hub
perfectly for shimming the spring. Take your outer slipper hub with you
because thanks to the chroming prosess some fit better then others.
Now you will keep your slipper spring free to put max tension against the
slipper pads instead of making the problem worse like you did by putting
the washer under the nut.
This works great, I have fixed many SC10 4x4 slippers at the tracks I race
at this way. At the track I don't have these washers with me but a quick
fix at the track is to take the blue aluminum servo arm retainer that most
people have laying around in their tool box and use that till you can get to
Ace Hardware to get the correct fitting washer.
Good luck, I hope this helps till AE gets this fixed along with everything else
they need to fix on the SC10 4x4....
BTW: AE if your listening, you need to make a longer & stronger slipper
spring for the SC10 4x4 (I'm sure you know this already though")
06-15-2011, 07:26 PM
#3272
i am having a problem with it nose diving on small jumps and it jumps great on big jumps anyone have any hints on why its doing this
06-15-2011, 08:17 PM
#3273
I love this truck and i love how it handels, but does any one have an idea why would they design the gear diffs. where you have to open it to take out the outside bearings to clean them?
06-15-2011, 08:34 PM
#3274
Question to the peeps who are stripping out their servo horns: Are you using the nifty little blue ano servo horn ring?
06-15-2011, 09:16 PM
#3275
hey guy i just brought a venom brushless combo its a 120 amp esc and a 3.5t motor what spure gear and pinion should i uesed on it
my track pretty big so yeah
my track pretty big so yeah
06-15-2011, 09:48 PM
#3277
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Posts: 2,974
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
06-15-2011, 10:08 PM
#3278
Heres your problem with your slipper.
#1 you put the washer under the wrong end of the spring.
Take your slipper spring off and look at the shaft. You will see the shaft
has a cone tapper just before the threads. Looking at this you will see the
spring retainer bottoms out against the cone before you can get max
tension against the slipper. So putting it at the wrong end as you did makes
the problem worse. The washer needs to be on the aluminum slipper plate
not the nut end.
So what I did was go to Ace Hardware in their nut and bolt department
they have a chrome & black chrome nut/bolt/washer section. There is a
chrome & black chrome washer there that fits the outer slipper hub
perfectly for shimming the spring. Take your outer slipper hub with you
because thanks to the chroming prosess some fit better then others.
Now you will keep your slipper spring free to put max tension against the
slipper pads instead of making the problem worse like you did by putting
the washer under the nut.
This works great, I have fixed many SC10 4x4 slippers at the tracks I race
at this way. At the track I don't have these washers with me but a quick
fix at the track is to take the blue aluminum servo arm retainer that most
people have laying around in their tool box and use that till you can get to
Ace Hardware to get the correct fitting washer.
Good luck, I hope this helps till AE gets this fixed along with everything else
they need to fix on the SC10 4x4....
BTW: AE if your listening, you need to make a longer & stronger slipper
spring for the SC10 4x4 (I'm sure you know this already though")
#1 you put the washer under the wrong end of the spring.
Take your slipper spring off and look at the shaft. You will see the shaft
has a cone tapper just before the threads. Looking at this you will see the
spring retainer bottoms out against the cone before you can get max
tension against the slipper. So putting it at the wrong end as you did makes
the problem worse. The washer needs to be on the aluminum slipper plate
not the nut end.
So what I did was go to Ace Hardware in their nut and bolt department
they have a chrome & black chrome nut/bolt/washer section. There is a
chrome & black chrome washer there that fits the outer slipper hub
perfectly for shimming the spring. Take your outer slipper hub with you
because thanks to the chroming prosess some fit better then others.
Now you will keep your slipper spring free to put max tension against the
slipper pads instead of making the problem worse like you did by putting
the washer under the nut.
This works great, I have fixed many SC10 4x4 slippers at the tracks I race
at this way. At the track I don't have these washers with me but a quick
fix at the track is to take the blue aluminum servo arm retainer that most
people have laying around in their tool box and use that till you can get to
Ace Hardware to get the correct fitting washer.
Good luck, I hope this helps till AE gets this fixed along with everything else
they need to fix on the SC10 4x4....
BTW: AE if your listening, you need to make a longer & stronger slipper
spring for the SC10 4x4 (I'm sure you know this already though")
06-15-2011, 10:44 PM
#3279
why not? why do they all drive fulltime 4x4 ??
I just love the clicker
06-16-2011, 12:29 AM
#3281
I realy like how the loose clicker helps me in the quick cornering.
at the end at our straight we have a 180 turn. it is point and shoot at the apex, and just a quik little tap at the brakes and off-power turn in.
The rear swings ( controlable ) around. and I am the fastest coming out of the 180 turn.
at our track nobody can turn faster and tighter than my sc10 4x4 with the clicker loose
we have a lot of tight 120 or 180 turns
at the end at our straight we have a 180 turn. it is point and shoot at the apex, and just a quik little tap at the brakes and off-power turn in.
The rear swings ( controlable ) around. and I am the fastest coming out of the 180 turn.
at our track nobody can turn faster and tighter than my sc10 4x4 with the clicker loose
we have a lot of tight 120 or 180 turns
06-16-2011, 12:33 AM
#3282
i believe it is braking consistincy is why they lock it down i ran with jr mitch this pastweekend and he locked it i believe for braking i locked mine after he told me he ran his locked i it was more predictable under braking but we were also on a sandy track not a hole lot of traction
06-16-2011, 12:37 AM
#3283
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Posts: 2,974
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
B: it looks like they're running on high traction stuff? That really wouldn't make much sense, but, hey, again, they are far, far better drivers than any of us.
06-16-2011, 01:09 AM
#3285
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
You must have read my post but didn't bother to comprehend.
The spacers were machined wrong. so spacing it out just puts the belt alignment where AE intended it to be. Per Don @ AE.
And i never had a problem with my spring retainer hitting on the top shaft. my problem was my fully compressed spring isn't enough to keep it from slipping too much, even with ht pads and vented disc.
The spacers were machined wrong. so spacing it out just puts the belt alignment where AE intended it to be. Per Don @ AE.
And i never had a problem with my spring retainer hitting on the top shaft. my problem was my fully compressed spring isn't enough to keep it from slipping too much, even with ht pads and vented disc.
Okay" I give" lol
Enjoy...
