SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Master
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I need to know where to put some stick on weights if your running the stock chassis.
Id like to have my chassis as balanced with the lipo as possible.
Id like to have my chassis as balanced with the lipo as possible.
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dup
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Start with no weight first , adjust the ride height to 24mm
Then if you want to add weight to see if it improves the handling ?
add 1 1/2 oz on each side of the servo , can also try adding 1oz right behind the battery against the rear chassis wall ..
No weight
Improves performance on jumps , landings & bumps....
Adding weight
improves traction and adds stability..
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 02-17-2013 at 10:21 AM.
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2650 castle with mamba monster, i'm running stick saddle packs I modded the chassis..... two orion 5000 90c :-) i made my own mounting plates for the receiver box which is now above the front diff and the esc is above the rear diff ( temp mounting plate getting thicker abs plastic)... everything fits perfectly.. i had to do some creative dremeling but other than that it was easy(dremeling did not seem to weaking the rear bulk head but if it did i do have extra :-) ). i have a new set of slipper pads i will be picking up on monday made out of a material ceramic similar to brake pads but closer to zr1 pads. i started out with a SCT system and became quickly tired of it. i then went to a MMP and a tekin sc4x 4.5 , but like i always say GO BIG OR GO HOME. im not a racer but i do like pushing the limits
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Last edited by khshapiro; 02-16-2013 at 12:46 PM. Reason: correction
Tech Fanatic
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Also overall chassis tuning has alot to do with performance e.i. suspension.
Tech Master
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Was looking through the manual...are the gear diffs the same size as the 2wd models? Was curious to know if it's possible to convert the gear diff to ball diffs.
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The exo front clutch locker is awesome for acceleration, and I liked it right off the bat. You can nail the throttle anywhere and it pulls where you point it. I did not like it under low speed tight turns though. All the drag of the 550 tied straight to the front wheels made for poor slow turning. Yes, it had crazy brakes that way, but I couldn't get comfy in the tight stuff. Set the clicker to clicking, and that solved it. It doesn't drive like other sc10s this way, as it doesn't need to be finessed, it can be chucked. My buddy has a regular SC10 4x4, no locker and not clicking, and we can pretty much cut and weave all over the track dead even. Mine's just more sideways. He can brake harder and later, but I'm pitched sideways and stuck down low in front of him already due to my acceleration into the turn (sometimes....when it goes well....). Regardless, I have fun with the truck when it's working, and it can battle tooth and nail as is, so I'm fine with it.
But as they said, it is what you like. I love the way it pulls out with the lockout.
Snapped a CVA pin right before the first qualifier Saturday and of course - shop didn't have parts so no racing for me.
Tech Master
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Tech Master
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Making the switch to ball diffs. Would they be a direct drop in?
Thanks for the info about the weights, I dont think id need them
right away. Im running a Trakpower 6800mah 70c stick pack lipo,
with a 4500kv copperhead system. I have not bought the brushless system
or the Lipos yet, but im buying them both one at a time.
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none available
After the race today my teammates & myself ran the Sc4x4 with buggy wheels .
Put the rears up front & fronts in back .
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Idea was to make it pull like a front wheel drive & drift the corner's ..
kinda did a good drift, kool !
hard to drive though..LoL
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-15-2013 at 12:50 PM.
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I once saw a post where someone was using the old LRP Sphere ''competition'' ecs (pre-SXX) on their sc104x4. Has anyone tried it here ? And would that set up work with a 550 can Tekin 5.5 motor ? I am also gonna give my center diff another go....I had originally only four of the pins in it along with all the balls ....but up front I had 30.000 diff oil.This time around I did not have seven to go down to but found 5000 for front and 10.000 for rear. I am going to try again cause the first time out with center diff....I almost saw no true difference.After reading many of the posts regarding the center diff....I realized I needed to go down in diff oil. The track I run at is a medium size indoor clay track with tons of traction.
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Do you race with the belt exposed like that ? I once did not have the time to put everything back together and ran it like that ......nothing catastrophic happened so .....what you think?