liquid g

iTrader: (46)

I had that problem take apart the steering rack and make sure the sleeves that the rack pivots on is not bound up

socal23

iTrader: (112)

Nope.not rubbing at all. Noizy and hell tho

socal23

iTrader: (112)

I understand what your saying here but why would it only turn one way freely when and not turn back the other way but when its moving it works freely? And if I we were talking about pulling the losi apart is have no problem. This thing looks like a nightmare to get aprt and if I have to do that I'll just replace it all with the strc stuff. Isn't that the way to go? Or should I just clean it real good or replace it with the stock stuff? I have the steering upgrade that came with the upgrade kit but that was just something I dissent want to tackle lol

Speedracer19

iTrader: (2)

I bet the steering rack is on backwards & the ball end is catching on the rack arm and binding, make sure that the notch/fork on the rack is facing to the rear of the car.

socal23

iTrader: (112)

Can you elaborate or maby show a pic? Because it has been working fine for the last 3 race nights until yesterday. So I.can't even fathom what would be backwards. I played with it again about 10min ago watching everything move around and nothing looked binding or loose

Speedracer19

iTrader: (2)

The notch/forks are at the top of the part

rippen

iTrader: (11)

Looks to me like your servo is toast, so why your at it put in the STRC bellcrank.

The reason I know is my B44 did the exact same thing after clipping a tube.

socal23

iTrader: (112)

Guess I'll have to get a radio post green servo. And the strc bellcrank as well. Anything else need upgraded whale I've got it all apart?

rippen

iTrader: (11)

Do you already have bearings in your original bellcrank or brass bushings. if so get the bearings.

socal23

iTrader: (112)

I'm. Not sure. I bought.it uses on.here. it was the kit version. Not the ft tho.

sonnyn

iTrader: (9)

a few months back, i was running my sc10 4x4 around the yard. when the steering locked up. the servo was shot rtr version.

Jstall7543

iTrader: (2)

Did your servo saver back off?

Jstall7543

iTrader: (2)

Do you guys like my wiring? Spent all weekend building my new truck.

Wild Cherry

Jstall


first class

Titian2010

iTrader: (73)

Hey guys
I was always curious on the belt drive of the sc10. I wanted to build a good basher/track truck. reading that this is a pure racer. Had a Scte last year and since it was identical to my Losi 8ight it was fairly easy to tune. With the sc10 I'm kinda lost with a few things but I'm researching through the 1000s of threads for common issues. But I need help on a few things.
Since I'm on a 8 scale nitro track mostly I will need the clicker fully tighten correct? Manual says 3.5 mm if I'm correct but I still hear it clicking so do I tighten Til it stops?
How will I know when things needs to be replace such as the belt, tensioners, and gear parts for the belt?
The belt box seems to be touching the belt where you connect the middle parts. When I tighten it more to the chassis plates or motor plate it seems the belt won't move without force. New belt box needed or is installed it wrong?
Also seem the truck has drag. When i give it a push, the truck stops with no roll or slowing stop. With motor on and I give it throttle it stops right away. Front rolls a little better and esc has no drag break. I read the first page if the thread and it said check the motor plate tightness. Any thing else to look for?
Also the ballistic 4.5 pushed my scrt pretty well. In my sc10 it seems really under power. I did use a 15t so I know that plays a roll and will try a 12-13t nxt time out but I wanted to know if this truck was too heavy for the motor on a 8th scale track with big jumps?
Other than that, on the first day with no setup and thrown out to test it handle really really well. I was shocked. I have it for sale because I don't need another racer but I'm thinking about tinkering with it a little more. I really want a basher i can flip and jump but man this handles good. I did a few batteries and the truck didnt flip over once or blow backwards ar all. perfect nose down every jump. Any tips for it while I'm testing would be appreciated.
Also I read somewhere in the manual it came with 3k diff oils. I redid mine to 7k front and 5 rear. Then saw later it said 30k front. Why soo I high? Doesn't that effect the rotation while turning? I've never gone pass 15k in my nitro truggy.

Thanks in advance
Dang last question- what does the truck need to be a FT? I see the kit on amain for the saddle, belt cover and slipper. What about the blue turn buckles and carbon chassis brace?