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Old 01-20-2013, 11:53 AM
  #32266  
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Originally Posted by AE SC10 4X4
well figured out why my pinion came off friday because it did today again, the grub screw threads are shot, it will tighten up but won't stay tight even with locktite. Finally got my truck handling nicely and the pinion comes off and in the process it shredded the teeth of my only center diff v.2 spur gear. Bought a new pinion and I have 2 new rc shox v.1 diff spurs can I get away running the the v.1 diff spur gear just swap out the v.2 and minus the loss of the pins everything else is the same?
Yes, v1 will work. Will lose performance though so order up a couple v2 spurs asap. Grab some extra pins too while your paying to ship the spurs so it doesn't cost $5 just to ship the pins later.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Ae

Don't advise to use thread lock on the grub screw, only will make removing more difficult or even impossible...
I've used a slight dab of thread lock on all of my pinions on all of my cars for years. Never had a pinion come loose during a race and NEVER had a hard time removing one. If any of you feel safer doing this, no fear. Of course be sure to use blue thread lock and not red.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by King DORK
I've used a slight dab of thread lock on all of my pinions on all of my cars for years. Never had a pinion come loose during a race and NEVER had a hard time removing one. If any of you feel safer doing this, no fear. Of course be sure to use blue thread lock and not red.
+1 on slight dab on the set screw. The time when it becomes hard to remove usually is when you get threadlock all over the pinion and motor shaft.

it actually can make it hard to get the pinion to stay on If you have too much thread lock as it doesn't set correctly in the timeframe when you need it.

You definitely don't want RED unless you are using the pinion in some condition where heat can factor in to keep the pinion on, like metal to metal setups, spur gear to pinion. I have seen that happen all of 1 time, and the motor shaft being slick had a lot to do with that.

Definitely order spares of the spurs, at least 2 in addition to your replacement one.
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:53 PM
  #32269  
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Is it normal to have shock collar heights (left to right) be at significantly different settings in order to get ride height set equally from side to side? I am wondering if this is just due to L/R weight distribution (ie RX8 and motor on same side vs only receiver on the other.... running front saddle pack exotek setup). Want to make sure there ismt some other issue causing the big difference in shock collar adjustment from left to right (mainly in rear, but some difference in front too)
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:40 PM
  #32270  
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I have a new FT SC10 4x4 listed in the for sale section. If anyone is interested please search for it in there. I had hoped to race this truck but work has prevented me from even putting it together. Thanks again for all of the info in this thread.
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:11 PM
  #32271  
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Originally Posted by Ty
I have a new FT SC10 4x4 listed in the for sale section. If anyone is interested please search for it in there. I had hoped to race this truck but work has prevented me from even putting it together. Thanks again for all of the info in this thread.
Putting a link up might help..
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:18 PM
  #32272  
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Anytime I use RED locktite, I plan for it to come apart never. You have to use heat to break it down and get it apart.

In the shop, it's not a big deal on something like farm equipment. I can just use a torch.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:15 PM
  #32273  
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Ae

More important to use a decent 2.0 mm driver then using lock tight..

a tip....

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 01-20-2013 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:17 PM
  #32274  
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Originally Posted by Bbradyc5
Is it normal to have shock collar heights (left to right) be at significantly different settings in order to get ride height set equally from side to side? I am wondering if this is just due to L/R weight distribution (ie RX8 and motor on same side vs only receiver on the other.... running front saddle pack exotek setup). Want to make sure there ismt some other issue causing the big difference in shock collar adjustment from left to right (mainly in rear, but some difference in front too)
I would say what you state in theory makes sense ... Do you have any scales you can throw it on?
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
I would say what you state in theory makes sense ... Do you have any scales you can throw it on?
Unfortunately not so I figured I would ask those on the forum here to see what there experience is with this. I was thinking that many just check ride height at a single point for front and rear measurements and not actually check left and right sides of both front and rear to verify lean based on uneven weight distribution. I would think iris important to not only have it set correctly at the center point of the chassis but also equalized towards edges but thisis only my guess and was hoping someone with good setup experience would set me straight.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bbradyc5
Unfortunately not so I figured I would ask those on the forum here to see what there experience is with this. I was thinking that many just check ride height at a single point for front and rear measurements and not actually check left and right sides of both front and rear to verify lean based on uneven weight distribution. I would think iris important to not only have it set correctly at the center point of the chassis but also equalized towards edges but thisis only my guess and was hoping someone with good setup experience would set me straight.
Your on the right track.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Your on the right track.
Ok thanks, not going to concern myself so much then with and differences between left and right side shock collar positions and as long as my ride height setting is where I want it to be at F/L, F/R, R/L, and R/R positions then I should be good. Gonna buy some cheap scales online to see what my current weight distribution is and how set up cannot cannot affect this. Any recommendations on the whole process of weighing for weight distribution and what to watch out for?
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:20 PM
  #32278  
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Buy 1000 gram capacity scales.
Find an online cross weight calculator. I have a corner weight app in my phone.
Having 50/50 left to right is a plus, but not absolutely necessary. In fact, you can make an argument you don't want it.
Check the scales once per use to make sure they are still accurate. I have a tape measure that's 475 grams that I use.
Have fun!
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:24 AM
  #32279  
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Smokin' deal on a NIB Rcshox Center Ball Diff V2 here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post11706231
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:38 AM
  #32280  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Buy 1000 gram capacity scales.
Find an online cross weight calculator. I have a corner weight app in my phone.
Having 50/50 left to right is a plus, but not absolutely necessary. In fact, you can make an argument you don't want it.
Check the scales once per use to make sure they are still accurate. I have a tape measure that's 475 grams that I use.
Have fun!
Ordered up some 1000g scales and will check out the iPhone app too (gotta love apps!). If I am reading you right, 50/50 front to back is critical, but 50/50 side to side not so much. I am running the exotek chassis so I already have additional weight in my set-up....is it worth it to add additional for 50/50 front to back or does the additional weight hurt more than it helps?

Originally Posted by Maddog94
Smokin' deal on a NIB Rcshox Center Ball Diff V2 here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post11706231
Will take it. Will save it for my next diff rebuild and curious to try it with an open mind and see how I like it.
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