5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
12-23-2012, 06:54 PM
+1 . Didn't notice freewheeling like shaft based vehicles, maybe that is why one setting on the tekin RX8s is popular?
12-23-2012, 09:26 PM
Cain , reviewed your set-up ..
Too bad ....
If your running on carpet ?
try 19mm ride height
less then whats there now or 1m on rear camber stud
try moving rear hub all the way back on arm
Did you veiw last nights race at Trcr ?
Too bad ....
If your running on carpet ?
try 19mm ride height
less then whats there now or 1m on rear camber stud
try moving rear hub all the way back on arm
Did you veiw last nights race at Trcr ?
12-23-2012, 09:32 PM
When you have a chance... thx
12-23-2012, 10:18 PM
Maddog
Yes I just read your pm ..
Question
"Do the wider .3mm rims reduce the trucks stability on the jumps ?"
Wider rims add stability on the turns & sweepers mainly, performance on jumps is affected by correct driving technique & set-up usually ...
Yes I just read your pm ..
Question
"Do the wider .3mm rims reduce the trucks stability on the jumps ?"
Wider rims add stability on the turns & sweepers mainly, performance on jumps is affected by correct driving technique & set-up usually ...
12-24-2012, 01:41 AM
New SC10B
Got a new SC10 B and took it out along with my sons. After about 15 min the both would studder. Mainly as we slowed down before a jump to set up then we would hit the throttle and nothing, then eased into it and it would go. Real glitchy on the inclines before a jump, any ideas?
12-24-2012, 05:05 AM
Hi guys getting my truck set up during christmas break 
I've been reading this thread from start to finish for a month now and am on page 1860 so almost caught up
So happy I missed the whole exotek clutch debate, it was no fun reading thru it.
I have installed
Exotek LCG V.2 Chassis
RC SHOX V.2 Center Diff
Castle 3800 1410 SCT ESC
Savox 1258
Spectrum DX3S with cap on receiver/ so no glitching or brown outs.
RPM arms front and rear
Sway Bars White Front, Blue Rear
Shocks 32wt front 27wt rear
Yellow springs on front, Blue Front springs on rear
12mm Aluminum Hexs
Proline Flo Tek
I am about to tear apart my front and rear diffs and rebuild and replace paper seals and diff fluid.
I will be changing diff fluid to 7000wt Front 5000wt rear for center diff. My LHS had no Team associated 7000 wt diff fluid so I purchased Losi 7000wt diff fluid. Will this be a issue? It costs $3 more than Team Associated Fluid so hope it works
I believe wild cherry posted to use 2 paper diff seals on each diff and it will eliminate leaky diffs otherwise theres the kyosho grease I believe Mantis posted using.
Can I get away with reusing my installed diff paper seal if it isn't torn or damaged and just installing one additional paper seal?
I will be running on a indoor hard packed clay track that is damp, the tire of choice is Barcodes super soft. Can I get away with Barcodes in any other hardness.
Anyone have a set up they recommend for this type of track? Would the 8mm mod be useful to me?
I've used search, but found nothing on these 2 specific questions.
Will the paper diff seals from a sc10 fit a sc104x4
and
I want to shim up the diff gears to eliminate outdrive wobble.
I'm not sure if I should use the .5 washer some people have been using and team associated is sending out if you call them? or the xray .3 I've read people are using?
Can someone please tell me the dimensions/part#/link/ or easy way to find the xray .3 washers that people are using because when I asked for them at the LHS nobody there had no clue but tried to sell me 4 different kits because one of them had to have what I needed
I don't know which one is preferable to use xray.3 or .5 washer?
Also if I use the .3 washer its one .3 washer under sun gear on each side of diff remove stock shim?
I also read somewhere one .3 shim and leave .2 stock shim on other side?
I also read that putting 2oz/3oz of weight in front and sides of servo will help truck handling even with the exotek.
I am running a regular stick pack .
I've been reading this thread from start to finish for a month now and am on page 1860 so almost caught up
So happy I missed the whole exotek clutch debate, it was no fun reading thru it.
I have installed
Exotek LCG V.2 Chassis
RC SHOX V.2 Center Diff
Castle 3800 1410 SCT ESC
Savox 1258
Spectrum DX3S with cap on receiver/ so no glitching or brown outs.
RPM arms front and rear
Sway Bars White Front, Blue Rear
Shocks 32wt front 27wt rear
Yellow springs on front, Blue Front springs on rear
12mm Aluminum Hexs
Proline Flo Tek
I am about to tear apart my front and rear diffs and rebuild and replace paper seals and diff fluid.
I will be changing diff fluid to 7000wt Front 5000wt rear for center diff. My LHS had no Team associated 7000 wt diff fluid so I purchased Losi 7000wt diff fluid. Will this be a issue? It costs $3 more than Team Associated Fluid so hope it works
I believe wild cherry posted to use 2 paper diff seals on each diff and it will eliminate leaky diffs otherwise theres the kyosho grease I believe Mantis posted using.
Can I get away with reusing my installed diff paper seal if it isn't torn or damaged and just installing one additional paper seal?
I will be running on a indoor hard packed clay track that is damp, the tire of choice is Barcodes super soft. Can I get away with Barcodes in any other hardness.
Anyone have a set up they recommend for this type of track? Would the 8mm mod be useful to me?
I've used search, but found nothing on these 2 specific questions.
Will the paper diff seals from a sc10 fit a sc104x4
and
I want to shim up the diff gears to eliminate outdrive wobble.
I'm not sure if I should use the .5 washer some people have been using and team associated is sending out if you call them? or the xray .3 I've read people are using?
Can someone please tell me the dimensions/part#/link/ or easy way to find the xray .3 washers that people are using because when I asked for them at the LHS nobody there had no clue but tried to sell me 4 different kits because one of them had to have what I needed
I don't know which one is preferable to use xray.3 or .5 washer?
Also if I use the .3 washer its one .3 washer under sun gear on each side of diff remove stock shim?
I also read somewhere one .3 shim and leave .2 stock shim on other side?
I also read that putting 2oz/3oz of weight in front and sides of servo will help truck handling even with the exotek.
I am running a regular stick pack .
If you purchase a "fresh" diff rebuild kit you will find that the thicker shims are now included in the parts content. If your rebuild kit is "old" stock all you have to do is call associated and they will mail you the correct new shims free of charge.
If you have run the car a while with leaking diffs it is also likely you will have worn the sun and spider gears enough that they will slip and "click" under load, even with the new thicker shims installed. To visually verify the condition of you existing diff gears clean off all the remaining fluid and place the old gear face up next to the new rebuild kit gear. The new gear teeth appear sharp/tall/pointed while worn gear teeth will look fat/short/wide where they should be pointed.
I doubt the paper gasket is the reason your diffs are leaking, and will be confirmed when you open the diff up and find coned washers/shims under your sun gears. I have reused my paper gaskets many times when changing the thickness of diff fluids and never had them leak.
Don
12-24-2012, 05:11 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
What size limiter did you use to limit the up travel.
12-24-2012, 06:14 AM
The amount of limiting required will vary depending on if you are running your shocks all the way "in" on arms and tower, or all the way "out". (All the way in will require less limiting, but then if you make a change in shock location at the track you may forget to check that the new location now allows your limited shock travel to contact the drive cup under full suspension travel.)
So I limit my travel with the shocks all the way out. If I make a change in location during a race night and go in on tower or arm then I have slightly more limiters than if really need. But that just means on landing a "big air" jump the chassis may only slightly slap the track surface, and that only after compressing the tire foams.
To answer your question my "stack" of limiters (rubber bumper plus two 2wd shock pistons) equals about 7.45 mm. To that amount is added whatever fractional amount is contributed by the shock dust boots. You will be safe at 8mm total or slightly less, but the only way to make sure is to work the suspension travel and visually verify that the dog bone is not touching the edge of the drive cups.
Remember, one hard landing can easily cone both of your brand new washers/shims under the sun gears. Also, a hard hit on the pipes marking the edge of the track can compress one side of the suspension bending the washer/shim on just that side.
Keep in mind the amount of time it will take you to dismantle your car to get at the diffs to replace a coned washer/shim. If that's a task you enjoy then don't bother to limit travel. In my case I prefer that my bones will never touch the drive cups, no matter where my shock locations are.
Once again the kit comes with a selection of limiters that clip on the shock shaft. I had misplaced my clip on limiters, and that is why I made limiters by recycling surplus shock pistons from my 2wd.
Finally it is pointless to limit up travel if you have already coned your washer/shims. Limiting doesn't fix a diff that is already leaking, it just prevents a new or rebuilt diff from ever leaking.
Don
So I limit my travel with the shocks all the way out. If I make a change in location during a race night and go in on tower or arm then I have slightly more limiters than if really need. But that just means on landing a "big air" jump the chassis may only slightly slap the track surface, and that only after compressing the tire foams.
To answer your question my "stack" of limiters (rubber bumper plus two 2wd shock pistons) equals about 7.45 mm. To that amount is added whatever fractional amount is contributed by the shock dust boots. You will be safe at 8mm total or slightly less, but the only way to make sure is to work the suspension travel and visually verify that the dog bone is not touching the edge of the drive cups.
Remember, one hard landing can easily cone both of your brand new washers/shims under the sun gears. Also, a hard hit on the pipes marking the edge of the track can compress one side of the suspension bending the washer/shim on just that side.
Keep in mind the amount of time it will take you to dismantle your car to get at the diffs to replace a coned washer/shim. If that's a task you enjoy then don't bother to limit travel. In my case I prefer that my bones will never touch the drive cups, no matter where my shock locations are.
Once again the kit comes with a selection of limiters that clip on the shock shaft. I had misplaced my clip on limiters, and that is why I made limiters by recycling surplus shock pistons from my 2wd.
Finally it is pointless to limit up travel if you have already coned your washer/shims. Limiting doesn't fix a diff that is already leaking, it just prevents a new or rebuilt diff from ever leaking.
Don
12-24-2012, 06:26 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Thanks for the info. I'm building my SC10 4X4 FT over X-mas and I read breifly about putting the limiters so they don't bottom out and tweak the drive cups. I just wanted to know a good starting point.
12-24-2012, 06:54 AM
I don't think they make a ball stud tall enought to try 1m on the camber stud ...
Now, if you mean try 1mm total, um, no. that will cause traction rolling. Saw that last year before going with more shims under the ball stud. and I am already at seven.
If a buddy of mine still runs his SC10 4x4, we'll look into the rear hub position though.
12-24-2012, 07:25 AM
Merry Christmas all and Happy Holidays! I follow this thread from time to time and since your are well versed in this truck i have a ?. When using the exotek chasis do you still need to add weight up front for balancing. The reason i ask is i like to put some under the servo during the rebuild then fine tune it from there.
12-24-2012, 08:46 AM
Cain
ride way to high , we even run lower then you are .
Those extra washers under the rear camber stud are making more grip not less.
Try the rear camber mod instead again , ditch the 2 stage , Rear ft spring spring( way too stiff) & go emulsion....
Dang forgot your looking at greener hill tops ....
You would be going way faster if you tried this instead of a buying a new ride...
Best of luck & Christmas holidays...
Rippen , use 3 Ae v2 pistons per shock for external limiting, drill the inside hole so they slip on.
ride way to high , we even run lower then you are .
Those extra washers under the rear camber stud are making more grip not less.
Try the rear camber mod instead again , ditch the 2 stage , Rear ft spring spring( way too stiff) & go emulsion....
Dang forgot your looking at greener hill tops ....
You would be going way faster if you tried this instead of a buying a new ride...
Best of luck & Christmas holidays...
Rippen , use 3 Ae v2 pistons per shock for external limiting, drill the inside hole so they slip on.
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 12-24-2012 at 09:04 AM.
12-24-2012, 09:20 AM
WC, Unfortunately that's not what I am seeing in real world usage
Just search the thread, back when traction was an issue I was having, I raised the rear ball stud height and it went away. On low traction conditions, went go the opposite direction and gained traction.
or as the hudy setup guide mentions which we have done this rodeo once before:
But, for anyone reading don't take my word for it, try it yourself. Go 1mm shim under the inner ball stud and whip it around, then add 7mm of shims under the stud. Did you gain traction or was the rear more free? if it was traction rolling, did that stop with more shims?
As for the +8mm mod, after seeing it what it did in loose conditions (gained some traction), the inner ball stud raising you do in conjunction with it seems to give the same effect as well, just raising the inner ball stud alone and probably is why on higher traction conditions you need to raise up the inner ballstud. I'll will ask a buddy of mine who still has his setup to run to give it a try, however, as I didn't want more traction, I wasn't inclined to try it out before getting a setup I like done. However, it was on the list.
As for softer springs ... nope, that would be going backwards as I tried the vehicle with the yellow rears and through any sections with ripples it was too lazy or not as responsive on sharp turns. Yup, I did that, remember was using Kodys setup back in early this year on carpet?
As it goes, I try stuff to have an accurate opinion on it from my perspective ...
RC Shox Center diff, good stuff, who knew?
Just search the thread, back when traction was an issue I was having, I raised the rear ball stud height and it went away. On low traction conditions, went go the opposite direction and gained traction.
or as the hudy setup guide mentions which we have done this rodeo once before:
REAR UPPER CAMBER LINK - SHOCKTOWER
EFFECT ON REAR ROLL CENTER
Upper holes • Lower rear roll center
Lower holes • Higher rear roll center
REAR ROLL CENTER CHARACTERISTICS
Higher
• Increases on-power traction
• Use to avoid traction rolling at corner entry
• Use under low-traction conditions
Lower
• Decreases rear traction into corner
• Increases steering into corner
• Use to avoid traction rolling mid-corner and corner exit
EFFECT ON REAR ROLL CENTER
Upper holes • Lower rear roll center
Lower holes • Higher rear roll center
REAR ROLL CENTER CHARACTERISTICS
Higher
• Increases on-power traction
• Use to avoid traction rolling at corner entry
• Use under low-traction conditions
Lower
• Decreases rear traction into corner
• Increases steering into corner
• Use to avoid traction rolling mid-corner and corner exit
As for the +8mm mod, after seeing it what it did in loose conditions (gained some traction), the inner ball stud raising you do in conjunction with it seems to give the same effect as well, just raising the inner ball stud alone and probably is why on higher traction conditions you need to raise up the inner ballstud. I'll will ask a buddy of mine who still has his setup to run to give it a try, however, as I didn't want more traction, I wasn't inclined to try it out before getting a setup I like done. However, it was on the list.
As for softer springs ... nope, that would be going backwards as I tried the vehicle with the yellow rears and through any sections with ripples it was too lazy or not as responsive on sharp turns. Yup, I did that, remember was using Kodys setup back in early this year on carpet?
As it goes, I try stuff to have an accurate opinion on it from my perspective ...
RC Shox Center diff, good stuff, who knew?
12-24-2012, 09:44 AM
Cain
Common knowledge raising the rear camber stud makes more grip...
8mm Camber mod makes less roll & less traction( BK words )
softer rear spring will steer more , not less
Real world observations can be clouded by track conditions .
Never decide or go by just a few runs or races ....
Try my advise and discover who was trying to help & not sell you parts ...
Common knowledge raising the rear camber stud makes more grip...
8mm Camber mod makes less roll & less traction( BK words )
softer rear spring will steer more , not less
Real world observations can be clouded by track conditions .
Never decide or go by just a few runs or races ....
Try my advise and discover who was trying to help & not sell you parts ...
12-24-2012, 10:02 AM
Unfortunately i did try what I mentioned, ignoring the fact that when something is actually tried and doesn't work doesn't change that.
But it is what it is.
by the way, got a chance to view that vid you posted. Nice job, you drive very consistent.
that vehicle that was in Red that passed everyone and I think won, was that the Losi as you posted? he seemed to be able to transition the turns faster than everyone else. that is basically what I tried to target with my SC10 4x4, similar quick transitions, freeing up the rear end. going to the 2.75 toe in setting really helped a lot versus the 3 degree setting.
But it is what it is.
by the way, got a chance to view that vid you posted. Nice job, you drive very consistent.
that vehicle that was in Red that passed everyone and I think won, was that the Losi as you posted? he seemed to be able to transition the turns faster than everyone else. that is basically what I tried to target with my SC10 4x4, similar quick transitions, freeing up the rear end. going to the 2.75 toe in setting really helped a lot versus the 3 degree setting.
Last edited by Cain; 12-24-2012 at 10:55 AM.
