aaronb73

iTrader: (5)

Thought I'd post this tip for everyone... when you pull your battery out of the truck and don't want to lose your pads and brace you can just flip the brace over, pads at each end and lock it down, should keep everything secure and not fall out.

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I'm looking to jump ship to a 1/8th scale e-buggy and will be letting my like new SC10 4x4 and Novak Ballistic 4.5t 550 go for a great price in the for sale section.

jland

iTrader: (87)

Or just use Sho Goo, works great

Redbeard

iTrader: (2)

You could do what I do and run them both. Since they're both 4x4 you should be using more or less the same driving skills. Although it does require some extra battery / time management.

Vegatron75

iTrader: (4)

I got a question for you guys.

My slipper seems to be a little in consistent. Being a 3 diff kind of guy, scrt10, I'm a bit new to the slipper deal.

Could I lock the slipper and use punch/torque control instead?

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

If you dont have the high torque slipper pads, get them! Also try using some expo on your throttle.

JS

iTrader: (70)

So I have been testing my SC10 4x4 with the RX8/1410 combo.
Currently using the 48P setup with the 93t Spur.

Just some street testing to break things in before taking to the track.
Lots of WOT, Breaking, etc. 7 min each test.

Results
93/20 - 7min - 109* ESC / 112* Motor (20* Timing and 80* Limiter)
93/22 - 7min - 100* ESC / 110* Motor (20* Timing and 80* Limiter)
93/23 - 7min - 108* ESC / 115* Motor (90* Timing and 96* Limiter)
93/23 - 7min - 110* ESC / 118* Motor (90* Timing and Limiter Off)

1410 runs very cool. Barely heats up.
RX8 running very cool too without Fan.
Bottom end very strong and top end woke up with the 23T.
Very happy with this setup.
I thought that the bottom end was going to be uncontrollable but gearing higher with timing advance tamed the bottom end considerably.

Feels like I can gear up higher maybe up to 25t.
Need to pick up ad 24T and 25T for testing.
I do have a 26t that I could test.

I haven't ran this setup at the track yet.
Maybe the results up top are going to be way off
Track will be small to medium outdoor packed dirt (Hot Rod Hobbies, CA)

Can anyone using this combo chime in and provide some feedback?
Will 26t be overkill? Does the 1410 just runs cool regardless of the load that i put on? Any comments or suggestions?

LouDawg

iTrader: (7)

Im running the 1410 on my sc10 also and with a 23/93 gearing im hitting 140-145 degrees on the motor after a full battery pack (15-20mins).
Ive tried 17/93, 18/93, 20/93 and 23/93 and like 23/93 a lot.

I love this setup for the track. 2mm swaybars front and back, jconcepts subcultures in super soft, Castle creations SCT/3800kv combo, 23/93 gearing, 7k diff fluid in front, 5k fluid in rear, 35wt oil in front, 30 wt oil rear, running bladders in shocks, removed bleeder screw and cut a slit in the shock boot to vent trapped air.

I tried the new swaybar setup yesterday at SDRC raceway and it is DIALED!!!
BTW here are the rear sways that i fabbed up from some touring car spares I had.

JS

iTrader: (70)

Thanks for the feedback LouDawg
Swaybars mod looks good.
Might have to fab my own set if the AE Swaybars does not become available soon.

You're right 93/23 is plenty fast.
I'm hesitating on trying a 26T - Might overheat. (Dont have 24t or 25t at the moment)
I will try to run a full pack with 23t (around 15min) and see how the temps are.
I would normally tune and find the right gearing for an 8 min run. Not so much with long run times.
I haven't run the SC10 yet at our local track.
Will start with this setup for Outdoor packed dirt.

RX8 / 1410 / 93t/23t
30/25 - 1.3 piston rear
No shock boots - Added limiters
60k/5k Diff
20t/20t Pulleys - Locked Clicker
Snipers M3

Will try with No swaybars and see how it goes.
Will make adjustments at the track.
thanks

LouDawg

iTrader: (7)

Definitely watch the temps especially on an outdoor track this summer! Im running indoors with an ambiet temp of probably 68 during night racing and 80deg during day time.

The first time I raced my truck without swaybars I kept flipping over from traction rolling. But it all depends on the track. The guys at my track say that sway bars arent necessary but damn my truck feels like its faster with them!!! lol

BlueGlowBoy

iTrader: (2)

Does that body pin mean you have an inner body? I can't find those in stock anywhere! Where'd'ja'geddit?

JS

iTrader: (70)

Thanks - Will definately monitor temps closely until I get the right gearing down, specially when I finally get the SC10 4x4 on the track.
Hopefully in the next couple of days
I will try without swaybars on the first track run and see how it goes.
btw - which pinions are you using (Brand and type)?
I'm using RR Absolut hardened 48p pinions. It has been working good so far.
But the width is definately much smaller than the spur.
Which 48p pinion (Brand) would have a wider width closer to the size of the spur?

BLbound

iTrader: (27)

Hi guys, I'm waiting on the AE sway bars to make it to the hobby shops and I was planning on getting the front and rear bars...but just today I noticed the rear bar kit ASC91124 has been taken off their site?? Does anyone know what's up?

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Have any of you guys balanced all four corners of your truck??? Running a gens ace 5000mah 40c battery, with a hobbywing sc10 esc/castle 1410, the front left corner needed a little over 2oz to get it close!!??

Tomorrow I'll be testing the new dual stage pistons
Thanks Mantis

Waldo183

iTrader: (3)

Any thoughts on how to keep the CVD pins in the rear from falling out?

PanicRev

iTrader: (10)

Chris Jarosz and Jason Ruona are using 21g (3/4oz) front left corner on their 4/17 indoor nats setups. Chris doesn't show it on his later setup so either he decided it wasn't necessary or he just neglected to note it.