Acill

iTrader: (24)

YES!!! Im picking this up right away. It looks fantastic. Im so glad I put off on getting the STRC one. It sure would have been nice to have my chassis this color though!!! The truck is becoming an Exotek 4x4 slowly

Wild Cherry

Can do , but the 4x4 won't steer very well due to the lack of rake on the front chassis like all 2w drives have ...

imbsbiaoy

Does the VTS slipper only effect the rear wheels when decoupled? I tried searching but couldn't find any info on this. It looks like when using the decoupled inner hub its free spinning and only relying on the single pad to transfer power to the front wheels, while the rear benefits from the vts?

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

I see your problem, assuming you liked it with yellow long rears in the rear with the old shocks....

• BEFORE your truck was way stiffer in the front than the rear (if you measure wheel rate or calculate wheel frequency)
• NOW you have it closer to even F/R - which is the way I like it.

My advice to you is to switch to a red rear (4.1 Rate) and see if you like that better. Without measuring them I can't be certain, but given my previous experience with how TLR and AE rate springs, I'd think that would be pretty close to yellow fronts and yellow rears.

I sincerely want you to succeed in this, George. BTW, you have a typo in your signature - it's QUIET not quite, unless you were being cute, which was quite funny.

Wild Cherry

Had way to much steering the first try .

*went to a softer front spring to tame the responsiveness..
* changed to firmer rear spring to make less roll


project is tuff when your low on funds , but thanks to this one guy ? he is the one who loan the spring's for me to try ...Kudo's to him...

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

I know how that goes.

I'm pretty sure you went the wrong way (softer in the front, stiffer in the rear), but in any case, you should of nailed the spring package first time out if you measured your wheel rate with the old shocks and springs. Once you know that, you should of been able to dial in the new shocks on the bench. Here's how to do that if you want to save yourself a bunch of agony floundering around buying random springs:

• With the old shocks springs installed, measure the front ride height. Write that number down.
• Put something heavy on the front shock tower that you can find again (I use a 25' tape measure and put it between the shock tower on the bumper)
• Measure the front ride height with the weight on. Write that number down.
• Subtract the second number from the first one, and write that number down.
• And circle it. That's your wheel rate in MM.

Change the shocks and repeat above step. Play with the spring selection till you get the wheel rate dialed in. If you start in the middle upper hole you can make it a little softer (more travel, higher wheel rate number) by moving it in a hole or stiffer by moving it out and dial it in perfect.

EXAMPLE

• Ride height (old stuff) 25mm.
• Ride height (old stuff + weight) 17.5mm
• Wheel rate = 7.5mm

Do it (with the new stuff) till you get the wheel rate right. There's no speculation, there's no guesswork, it's just simple math and the proper way to do what you're trying to do. And your chassis will handle pretty close to how it did when you started making changes so you can isolate if it's really the shocks or the springs.

IMO.

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

^can't believe I never thought of that.

Wild Cherry

When I started I just compared and tried to duplicate the yellow springs for a starting point ...

Resulting with getting as close as I could with the somebody's elses springs laying around in his pit box .

Then I drove & raced ..

refining the set-up now by judging how the car performs.

Not by how the car lands or feels on a table ....

Not saying your way is no good craig , just saying how I'm tuning ..

With Brown watching me try ...

BTW the red in question I believe is softer then the green , we had both around.
Was judging by feel & other's guessing as well ...

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

WC why on earth would you go to a softer spring to "tame responsiveness" and then go to a stiffer rear spring at the same time???? I am confused on your logic.......

Prostreet314

iTrader: (58)

Ok so finally here are some pics of my 2wd conversion.

Prostreet314

iTrader: (58)

Ok, so in order for this to work as a 2wd, you will need either the top shaft pin mod or AE parts, 91180 and 91188 (the new rear top shaft with the second grove and the coupled inner slipper hub) so that your drive system doesn't spin on the backside and all your drive power is lost. Yes you still need these parts even if you have the ball diff. Other than that everything else is in the kit. Any questions, let me know...

Cain

iTrader: (294)

man I love firewalls that block photobucket ...

From the mini pics I could get google to show me looks great.

How did it feel when you used it in comparison to the rear motor sc10?

imbsbiaoy

Anyone?

Does this make sense? LOL. I think it may be why I've been chasing around my setup for awhile. I took apart my slipper and the VTS pads look new and my front pad was pretty worn. Running the OD front end... It's hard to imagine but if the front end is relying on just the small front pad (de-coupled, i.e. not pinned) for slipper action and the rear end uses the VTS, the rear is going to seem like it gets more power than the front, or in other words, the front will act as if it is running less slipper tension. This combined with running the 19T OD pulley has made my truck quite a handful on loose surfaces. It pulls from the front unless the load becomes so much that it overcomes the slipper, then at the same time the rear wheels are not dispersing power through the slipper (because VTS has 2 pads and grips better) making it act more like a 2wd. I have been having trouble going into and coming out of corners and I think this is the cause. I am about to find out if my theory is correct when my coupled slipper hub gets here friday.

Thoughts?

Prostreet314

iTrader: (58)

Pm me your email and I'll send u the pics.

Gonna race it this weekend and I'll let you know how it goes. I think I'm gonna pull the carbon chassis brace cause it makes the chassis too stiff. Also going to try to run it without the swaybars. The truck feels more planted and stable than the sc10. I'm running the diff with 10k oil but thinking of trying out 7k to allow the truck to rotate better thru the corners. Full RTR weight is 5lb 4oz with a 550 motor an a few aluminum parts on it. My sc10 is 4lb 15oz RTR.

Prostreet314

iTrader: (58)

Yes the front drive relies on the one inner slipper pad. Most have changed to the hd pad, garo discs for front and back or like me switched to the exotek front drive locker. Your over drive pulley in the front will thank you by getting the exotek piece... There is also another option I've tried if anyone wants to know...

The vts was created because on the original slipper design the rear tires didn't get the drive they needed off of one pad (even the hd one) due to the torque of 550 motors over powering the slipper spring and pad pressure. The truck was originally designed for 540 motors in mind.

Coupling the inner slipper hub will make the front and rear of the truck slip together but puts excess pressure on the rear tranny. If you tighten the slipper down too tight be ready to replace lost of idler gears, and no the almuinum ones will not help longevity