5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-10-2011, 02:16 PM
#3076
If you changed the motor and the problem went away then I would say you have a motor problem not a slipper problem. Sounds to me like the magnet is slipping on the motor shaft. I have seen this occur before, don't have any first hand experience with the Castle motors though.
(I appreciate the brainstorming, Please don't take my short responses shutting down the ideas as an offense)
06-10-2011, 03:13 PM
#3080
Tech Adept
It sounds like you have already isolated the problem and don't realize it.
you said you ran a different motor and everything else the same and it worked fine. Sounds like a motor rotor problem to me.
and slipper pads do not take time to warm up.
06-10-2011, 03:17 PM
#3081
Finally got some good track time on mine and played with my set up I ended up jumping to a 14t pinion got 1 lap in and my servo took a crap. Very durable and fun
06-10-2011, 03:32 PM
#3083
To do the Tekno metal hex conversion you will need:
TKR1654X- Tekno metal hex
TRA2754- Traxxas axle pins
TRA3981- 6x9.5x5mm Teflon washer
Assemble the drive axles following the manual with the shims on the inside of the carrier up front. All you need is one Teflon washer on the outside of the carriers. Then put the pin in. I like to use just a dab of blue locktite to hold them in. Then grab the axle and put the hex on and tighten the screw on the hex. (MAKE SURE NOT TO OVER TIGHTEN THE LITTLE SCREW).
TKR1654X- Tekno metal hex
TRA2754- Traxxas axle pins
TRA3981- 6x9.5x5mm Teflon washer
Assemble the drive axles following the manual with the shims on the inside of the carrier up front. All you need is one Teflon washer on the outside of the carriers. Then put the pin in. I like to use just a dab of blue locktite to hold them in. Then grab the axle and put the hex on and tighten the screw on the hex. (MAKE SURE NOT TO OVER TIGHTEN THE LITTLE SCREW).
Last edited by Bburns; 06-10-2011 at 06:56 PM.
06-10-2011, 03:48 PM
#3085
when was the last time you ran your motor in the the slash?
It sounds like you have already isolated the problem and don't realize it.
you said you ran a different motor and everything else the same and it worked fine. Sounds like a motor rotor problem to me.
and slipper pads do not take time to warm up.
It sounds like you have already isolated the problem and don't realize it.
you said you ran a different motor and everything else the same and it worked fine. Sounds like a motor rotor problem to me.
and slipper pads do not take time to warm up.
I switch the motors out quite alot, I drove Sunday with the SC10 4x4-1415, and the Slash-1415 on Tuesday. I truly don't believe it's the motor. But I will do some motor tests.
06-10-2011, 03:53 PM
#3087
To do the Tekno metal hex conversion you will need:
TKR1654X- Tekno metal hex
TRA2754- Traxxas axle pins
TRA3971- 6x9.5x5mm Teflon washer
Assemble the drive axles following the manual with the shims on the inside of the carrier up front. All you need is one Teflon washer on the outside of the carriers. Then put the pin in. I like to use just a dab of blue locktite to hold them in. Then grab the axle and put the hex on and tighten the screw on the hex. (MAKE SURE NOT TO OVER TIGHTEN THE LITTLE SCREW).
TKR1654X- Tekno metal hex
TRA2754- Traxxas axle pins
TRA3971- 6x9.5x5mm Teflon washer
Assemble the drive axles following the manual with the shims on the inside of the carrier up front. All you need is one Teflon washer on the outside of the carriers. Then put the pin in. I like to use just a dab of blue locktite to hold them in. Then grab the axle and put the hex on and tighten the screw on the hex. (MAKE SURE NOT TO OVER TIGHTEN THE LITTLE SCREW).
You won't have to worry about the hex coming off with the wheel.
Plus the pins on the CVD's will stay in tact.
Definately be careful not to over tighten the hex screw.
I stripped one screw already.
I ended up picking up a beefier/stronger screw for the hex:
PROTEK Cap Head Screw M2x5mm – PTK-H-1002
The cap head is a little bigger and could bind with the wheel a little bit causing a tight fit.
I have been running it for a few packs and it works great.
I have not noticed any misalignment with the wheel or anything...
06-10-2011, 03:54 PM
#3088
06-10-2011, 03:54 PM
#3089
Tech Adept
The two other guys who run Sc104x4's at my track speak of warming up the pads so they get sticky, Don't know what to say about that.
I switch the motors out quite alot, I drove Sunday with the SC10 4x4-1415, and the Slash-1415 on Tuesday. I truly don't believe it's the motor. But I will do some motor tests.
I switch the motors out quite alot, I drove Sunday with the SC10 4x4-1415, and the Slash-1415 on Tuesday. I truly don't believe it's the motor. But I will do some motor tests.
How many times has the locknut been off and on? Is it backing off? I had that happen on my 2wd. It was driving me crazy that I had no punch to get over jumps. New locknut, problem was gone!
06-10-2011, 03:56 PM
#3090
This upgrade is a must. Thanks for the tip BBurns
You won't have to worry about the hex coming off with the wheel.
Plus the pins on the CVD's will stay in tact.
Definately be careful not to over tighten the hex screw.
I stripped one screw already.
I ended up picking up a beefier/stronger screw for the hex:
PROTEK Cap Head Screw M2x5mm – PTK-H-1002
The cap head is a little bigger and could bind with the wheel a little bit causing a tight fit.
I have been running it for a few packs and it works great.
I have not noticed any misalignment with the wheel or anything...
You won't have to worry about the hex coming off with the wheel.
Plus the pins on the CVD's will stay in tact.
Definately be careful not to over tighten the hex screw.
I stripped one screw already.
I ended up picking up a beefier/stronger screw for the hex:
PROTEK Cap Head Screw M2x5mm – PTK-H-1002
The cap head is a little bigger and could bind with the wheel a little bit causing a tight fit.
I have been running it for a few packs and it works great.
I have not noticed any misalignment with the wheel or anything...
