5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-18-2012, 09:17 PM
from what I recall about the novak ballistic motors, if you are not using the 14mm rotor, it doesn't seem to have a lot of punch. that is what I have heard from people who used them with the standard rotors which I think are 12.3mm or something like that. If you go with say the 14mm rotor, you may get the punch you want, as well as temps seem to go down on the motor and you can then gear it up more.
The Kvs though do go down when going to this rotor. I think for your 4.5 it becomes more like a 3800Kv motor.
If you are a novak fan, they do have some new ESCs that are supposed to be more high current handling than the GTB2 for SCT 4x4. Also, the use 12 gauge wires as well. I have heard that the high gauge compared to 14 helps, but I don't know from personal experience as I use all 12 gauge on my ESCs.
The Kvs though do go down when going to this rotor. I think for your 4.5 it becomes more like a 3800Kv motor.
If you are a novak fan, they do have some new ESCs that are supposed to be more high current handling than the GTB2 for SCT 4x4. Also, the use 12 gauge wires as well. I have heard that the high gauge compared to 14 helps, but I don't know from personal experience as I use all 12 gauge on my ESCs.
10-18-2012, 09:20 PM
i can live with it. it was a slash 4x4 drop in kit.
10-18-2012, 09:28 PM
I'm not saying it's perfect, but it's been competitive for me. It was with the older truck, Exotek chassis, stick packs and I had the basket/garodisc in the slipper (bought the truck used and the slipper pads were toast so I gave them a shot and I like them a lot).
If you are interested let me know and I'll fill out a setup sheet.
10-18-2012, 09:45 PM
don't listen to that jeff guy. He's a hack. 
10-18-2012, 09:57 PM
10-18-2012, 10:03 PM
Hey Cain, all I really race on is big outdoor 1/8 sized tracks which, for the most part, tend to be on the loose side and get very rutted/blown out. I have a setup that's probably the happiest I've been with the truck if you are interested. I'd be happy to pass it on.
I'm not saying it's perfect, but it's been competitive for me. It was with the older truck, Exotek chassis, stick packs and I had the basket/garodisc in the slipper (bought the truck used and the slipper pads were toast so I gave them a shot and I like them a lot).
If you are interested let me know and I'll fill out a setup sheet.
I'm not saying it's perfect, but it's been competitive for me. It was with the older truck, Exotek chassis, stick packs and I had the basket/garodisc in the slipper (bought the truck used and the slipper pads were toast so I gave them a shot and I like them a lot).
If you are interested let me know and I'll fill out a setup sheet.
I usually have my binder filled with various setups and make notes on what I liked on them, etc.
10-18-2012, 10:24 PM
10-18-2012, 10:39 PM
So this is just my base setup/starting point that I go to tracks with. It's been really good for me, I don't end up changing much, so maybe some of you guys will like it.
I don't know how this will change when I start running the FT with saddle packs. I just got the kit, so we shall see.
Holler if you have any questions. I didn't fill out some stuff that's not really all that relevant.
I can't attach the PDF so I chopped it up into two screen caps.
I don't know how this will change when I start running the FT with saddle packs. I just got the kit, so we shall see.
Holler if you have any questions. I didn't fill out some stuff that's not really all that relevant.
I can't attach the PDF so I chopped it up into two screen caps.
10-18-2012, 10:55 PM
One caveat to this, if I go somewhere that's a traditional 1/10th type track that's really smooth and doesn't have big jumps, I will generally switch to 1.2 pistons. But on the big 1/8 tracks, I need that extra pack on launch or I just chassis slap and jump all stupid.
10-19-2012, 05:46 AM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (58)
I just did a full tear down and rebuild of the truck and found one of my front a-arms was tweaked and the inner hinge pin was bent (slightly) broke my first front bumper, one of my steering turnbuckles had deformed ends causing it to bind, and 2 of the swaybar mounts (one front and one rear) were binding up as well. Im hoping all those little things were the problem... I replaced all those pieces plus a few other maintenance items and its all back together fresh as can be. I'll run it Saturday and see.
10-19-2012, 05:56 AM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (58)
How long ago did you buy that combo?
From you pic I see that your esc has the old style (small) capacitor on it and that can be one of the reasons the system is running hot, I'd suggest either contacting Novak and see if they'll upgrade the capacitor on the esc for you or you can purchase one and replace it yourself. You can also ask them about trading it in for a havoc pro sc w/x-drive, cause that would be a better esc for the truck. Also, the motor has adjustable timing on the back of the can and if that is loose or set improperly you can run hot as well. What are your internal settings on the esc?
From you pic I see that your esc has the old style (small) capacitor on it and that can be one of the reasons the system is running hot, I'd suggest either contacting Novak and see if they'll upgrade the capacitor on the esc for you or you can purchase one and replace it yourself. You can also ask them about trading it in for a havoc pro sc w/x-drive, cause that would be a better esc for the truck. Also, the motor has adjustable timing on the back of the can and if that is loose or set improperly you can run hot as well. What are your internal settings on the esc?
10-19-2012, 07:29 AM
So this is just my base setup/starting point that I go to tracks with. It's been really good for me, I don't end up changing much, so maybe some of you guys will like it.
I don't know how this will change when I start running the FT with saddle packs. I just got the kit, so we shall see.
Holler if you have any questions. I didn't fill out some stuff that's not really all that relevant.
I can't attach the PDF so I chopped it up into two screen caps.
I don't know how this will change when I start running the FT with saddle packs. I just got the kit, so we shall see.
Holler if you have any questions. I didn't fill out some stuff that's not really all that relevant.
I can't attach the PDF so I chopped it up into two screen caps.
Did you find that the response was called down by going with the stiffer front sway bar enough so that you didn't need to go to the new steering rack position either?
10-19-2012, 07:50 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
By softest springs on the rear, do you mean from the spring kit or what they have available? ( I think there are some even softer than the pack last time I looked could be wrong). using this soft of a spring setting on the rear how does it feel through ripple bumps? When i tried just the yellow rear springs it felt as if it dropped the car into the bumps too much.
where do you feel the vehicle is lacking if you had to name an area?'
As for C rating, I beleive the issue is that since we are using 2S lipos with a really high Kv motor setup they are having trouble keeping up with the demands placed on them which is why we see a benefit to using high C rated lipos
where do you feel the vehicle is lacking if you had to name an area?'
As for C rating, I beleive the issue is that since we are using 2S lipos with a really high Kv motor setup they are having trouble keeping up with the demands placed on them which is why we see a benefit to using high C rated lipos
The softest springs from AE for the 4x4 - if I wasn't so lazy I would go out to the car can get the color. It feels good over the bumps not getting unsettled we actually have a set of quads that are pretty big and it feels good on them. It was lacking traction big time but the suspension changes and sway bars helped greatly also why I'm going to try the 8mm mod. The biggest thing lacking right now is my inconsistent driving - 3 clean laps, turtle, 3 clean laps, turtle - etc.
Tonight is race night - going to see if they shop has the parts for the 8mm mod, if so will put that on. Going to travel limiters on and rebuild the diff again. Hopefully the shop also has the Tekin programming module, I want to play with curves and current limiting some but that will wait until the other stuff is done. I don't like to change to much at once.
I will say, I love the Exotech front lock-out, the truck will now pull through the corners.
10-19-2012, 08:38 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
10-19-2012, 08:50 AM
Got it. I'll run this by a guy I know who has his sc10 4x4 with pretty much all stock AE stuff as well to give a go as he does sticks too. I am curious, I know its common for guys with the slipper setups to use heavier front diff fluid but you have what I run for my Center diff setup.
Did you find that the response was called down by going with the stiffer front sway bar enough so that you didn't need to go to the new steering rack position either?
Did you find that the response was called down by going with the stiffer front sway bar enough so that you didn't need to go to the new steering rack position either?
I tried the steering rack position and didn't care for it. If I feel like I need more or less steering, I just turn it up or down on my radio. Easier to do and more adjustable for me that way, so I basically I set the car up with as much steering as it has normally, then adjust it on the radio on the driver's stand to suit the track conditions.
