SC10 4x4 Thread
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Wild Cherry, thanks for answering my question, I was hoping you could answer one more so I can. get this truck back together. After adding extra shims, and removing out drive shims it feels very tight. I can actually feel resistance as each tooth catches, almost like when you turn a brushless motor and it 'clicks' forward to the next magnet. Is this proper or am I to thick on the shims? Thanks for your time.
If 0.2 is too loose and 0.4 is too tight, the in between is...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-5x15x03mm-10
You can probably find them from another manufacturer for less, but that is the size. I think AE is 10mm od and these are 15... anywhere in between for the od.
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Its made by RC Shox. the latest version is basically a ball diff that has the ability to adjust the diff action via pins. here is a direct link:
http://www.rcshox.com/sc1044-center-dif-v2/
http://www.rcshox.com/sc1044-center-dif-v2/
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+1. For those of us who have tried and it are willing to report back on our experiences, in general its a winner, especially on loose stuff. The V2 with its pins is supposed to be able to be tuned for really high traction as well like carpet. I am going to give it a go myself this winter.
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4 pins for me has been perfect at every track I've been on. The conditions ranged from slightly loamy / loose, to mostly hardpacked with some dust on top.
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same. Indoors Marcus recommending 8 - 10 pins for carpet. I have heard though of others starting at 6 pins.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
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62T I would assume.
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I tried 5 pins and you know what? Didn't have as much diff action as I wanted and went back to 4 pins. I guess it's driver preference as much as track condition.
One thing's for sure, this is a miracle cure for this truck.
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Fu front diff would only
Except .2 shimms. Otherwise way to tight.
The rear took the .5 great.
Both diffs and cases are about 3 months old. Nice and broken in. The front is just tighter and smaller, probably the way ae intended in the first place. The rear... Not so much
Except .2 shimms. Otherwise way to tight.
The rear took the .5 great.
Both diffs and cases are about 3 months old. Nice and broken in. The front is just tighter and smaller, probably the way ae intended in the first place. The rear... Not so much
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What is the c-diff suposto cure? I'm not seeing a problem with my truck? Everybody is always talking about the part.
Everybody is always bagging on this truck and leaving it. Yet it wins big races with stock setups. ?
Everybody is always bagging on this truck and leaving it. Yet it wins big races with stock setups. ?
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Planning to this weekend if we still make the trip up to the last track i ran on (the one with black dirt). I am still iffy on when exactly to use the mod. From what I have gathered for info from everyone I have spoken with, it seems it helps with traction rolling and locks the rear end in more too. I think I am going to try it with the stock toe block setting, as well as the middle on the hub position which I think everyone is using or whatever is similar to that position when you don't have the 8mm mod.
Right now I run a long rear link on the rear hub with the 3.5 degree toe in on the rear.
For the first question, here is a breakdown Mantis said on the RC Shox thread related to a video of the center diff in action:
based on my experiences with it, it does pretty much what he says on the loose stuff I have ran it on. I hope to see the same kind of performance on carpet high bite this winter, maybe sooner depending on when track practice is allowed.
As for people bagging the truck and leaving it, I really think its because of these things:
- Lack of setups to deal with track conditions that are loose with big jumps
- Lack of exposure of the truck being run at a lot of events by the big dogs
- Takes time to get used to how it works versus a 1/8 based vehicle
- Out of the box, the losi is easier to drive fast without any work on a lot of tracks
- Initial offering without clutch basket style setup or sway bars was recipe for painful driving experience.
Just my observations based on what people are saying and from what I can tell.
I think though AE is on the right track if they keep running the car at the big events in conditions NOT ideal for the vehicle so we get some more setups.
Right now I run a long rear link on the rear hub with the 3.5 degree toe in on the rear.
the center dif is actually a center ball dif conversion, just like any center dif it transfers power away from where it is not needed. There are many benefits to this one being that you decrease damage to the idler gear which has been a soft spot on our trucks! if you watch the video you will see that on the first lap i was driving crazy just to show that you can be really aggressive and the truck will not "spin" around, it pretty much follows where ever the front wheels are pointed, on low traction it is superior and on high traction the acceleration is stunning especially coming out of turns. You also increase corner speed because the front is not locked down to the rear, braking is also better.
with a slipper slipping you are always losing power, with the center dif all of the power is going somewhere at any givin time!
with a slipper slipping you are always losing power, with the center dif all of the power is going somewhere at any givin time!
As for people bagging the truck and leaving it, I really think its because of these things:
- Lack of setups to deal with track conditions that are loose with big jumps
- Lack of exposure of the truck being run at a lot of events by the big dogs
- Takes time to get used to how it works versus a 1/8 based vehicle
- Out of the box, the losi is easier to drive fast without any work on a lot of tracks
- Initial offering without clutch basket style setup or sway bars was recipe for painful driving experience.
Just my observations based on what people are saying and from what I can tell.
I think though AE is on the right track if they keep running the car at the big events in conditions NOT ideal for the vehicle so we get some more setups.
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
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Wild Cherry, thanks for answering my question, I was hoping you could answer one more so I can. get this truck back together. After adding extra shims, and removing out drive shims it feels very tight. I can actually feel resistance as each tooth catches, almost like when you turn a brushless motor and it 'clicks' forward to the next magnet. Is this proper or am I to thick on the shims? Thanks for your time.
I made the mistake on my 2wd of adding too much shim and the damn thing drives like its got a spool in it, only way to turn is by rotating the rear around. But it still doesnt "click" just very tight and lots of resistance if I grab the rear wheels and rotate them in opposite directions