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Old 07-10-2012, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Thanks, just ordered the xrays from amain. now have to wait til they show up to continue on the build.
Damn could of gotten them alot cheaper at trickparts, they are offering a %30 discount on everything as well as free shipping if you spend $49 bucks or more


What kind of electronics do you plan on running?
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by SMR 510RR
Lower the rear roll center by adding more wasther/spacers under the inner ballstud on the camber link. I found that without the 8mm mod I liked 5mm. You can also lower rear ride height slightly, about 1mm lower than your front that should help on power traction.
i have the the c hub tower with 5mm in the rear with 0 washers in the front.. the truck still felt loose.. ive been having issues lately (not today) but my belt has came off the pass few days ago.. what can cause that? and i keep on bending the front chassis brace screw..
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
Damn could of gotten them alot cheaper at trickparts, they are offering a %30 discount on everything as well as free shipping if you spend $49 bucks or more


What kind of electronics do you plan on running?
There was a comment from July 9th that they were out of stock, so I didn't get them from trick parts. I'm running a LRP SXX tc v2 and reedy sonic 550 4.5 with reedy saddles.
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
There was a comment from July 9th that they were out of stock, so I didn't get them from trick parts. I'm running a LRP SXX tc v2 and reedy sonic 550 4.5.
Nice, I hear the power on that reedy is very smooth... If you don't mind post up your comments on the performance when you get a chance.
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
Nice, I hear the power on that reedy is very smooth... If you don't mind post up your comments on the performance when you get a chance.
I have it and it's sweet, I run a 11 tooth spur indoor clay at trcr, gonna get a 12 and try. It is super smooth feeling with a lot of rip. low end Is good, easy to clear anything after a tight corner. Always temps around 140-150 after a 15 minute pack. I run it with a rx8 and reedy 5500 60c. It is my favorite setup I've had even like it more then my old 1/8 buggys. And it has a cool fast zip noise when I pin it.
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Thanks, just ordered the xrays from amain. now have to wait til they show up to continue on the build.
You probably know this but you DO use the outdrive washer (91007) with the .3 shims. The new kits that come with the .5 sun gear washer do not use that from what I've heard. They couldn't fit the outdrive washer with the XL .5 washer.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Hey guys, I just got my FT 4x4 and am putting it together. Im on the diffs, I was told to get a diff rebuild kit because the gears that come with the kit were bad, but they look fine. Are there any issues with the kit gears anymore?
To backup about 500 pages

Just want to make sure you caught this before you get it finished.
The diff washers were not a major problem, I found that a little tighter gear mesh than the .2 washer was better and others did as well.

But I think what brought our attention to that washer is the a-arm and cva hitting the outdrive at full compression using only the rubber bumper as a limiter and no clips. That damaged (coned) the washer creating more slop in the gears and then they strip.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BorackBasher
i have the the c hub tower with 5mm in the rear with 0 washers in the front.. the truck still felt loose.. ive been having issues lately (not today) but my belt has came off the pass few days ago.. what can cause that? and i keep on bending the front chassis brace screw..
You need to run more height on the ballstud, 6mm minimum and 7 is optimal. By running less you are raising your roll center and defeating the purpose of the 8mm to begin with.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Hey guys, I just got my FT 4x4 and am putting it together. Im on the diffs, I was told to get a diff rebuild kit because the gears that come with the kit were bad, but they look fine. Are there any issues with the kit gears anymore?


Matt
don't use the smaller .2 shims(91007) mounted on the out drive shafts.

Instead use two of the larger .2 sungear shims under each sungear ...


Will perform great this way ....

also the double shim is stronger and won't cone or wear near as much.


*remember , use the 8m of external limiter on the shocks to help stop the CVA from bashing outdrive cups .

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 07-11-2012 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:39 AM
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Thanks. I've read through quite a bit of this thread over the last couple of weeks.
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Old 07-11-2012, 06:36 AM
  #26396  
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Anybody noticed on associated's site the kinwald setup and view of his car?
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Old 07-11-2012, 06:38 AM
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yes. it is on the previous page
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SMR 510RR
You need to run more height on the ballstud, 6mm minimum and 7 is optimal. By running less you are raising your roll center and defeating the purpose of the 8mm to begin with.
okay.. i will raise it up to 7mm instead of 5mm.. i wont be able to go to the track until friday or sunday to do more testing... if i have too much steering should i go up on diff fluid in the front? currently running 20k and 5k.. what do you guys think? .. i am still itching to figure this truck out..
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:56 AM
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does 5k make that much of a difference from 7k in the rear? I realism you get a more responsive diff. Not sure exactly how this calms down the truck.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:57 AM
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Is there a difference between running 5/5 or 7/7 or even 3/3? If traction is relative then wouldn't it all be the same.
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