5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
07-09-2012, 09:06 PM
Tech Regular
07-09-2012, 09:06 PM
doh, I ordered a 14..... I was using the "search" function and it looked like several people were doing 14/62........I will temp it every lap and prey it does not start on fire or the lhs has a 13t.
07-09-2012, 09:09 PM
I went with reversing the rear hubs also (Left is Right and Right is now Left). I currently have the CF tower extensions, 12mm ball studs, and went with 6mm of spacers on the stud. The 8mm of spacers on the stud left only a short amount of threads left on the ball stud which wouldn't thread into the metal eyelet where it is screwed into on the bulkhead. Maybe there is a 14mm ball stud that could be used? I have the camber link on the middle hole on the hub and the inside hole on the bulkhead. I noticed that when setting the rear camber I had to shorten the camber link a lot and it bottomed out on the camber link rod end where it was putting pressure on the ball link causing binding where when I did a swing test on the arms with the shocks off.
With all that said, I think that having a straighter camber link is a good thing. My buggy and truggy and about every RC I have seen has a camber link that is parallel with the arm itself. I am thinking though I might have to remove about 2 to 3mm of camber link (metal part) to reach -2mm of camber where the camber link isn't bottoming out on the camber link end causing binding.
Did you run into any of these issues? Is there any change to toe by reversing the rear hubs? Also, how is this Mod working out for you?
-Hoosier
07-09-2012, 09:09 PM
14 will prob be 'ok' but i always like to gear to keep to motor under 150 after 7 minutes.
07-09-2012, 09:19 PM
07-09-2012, 09:34 PM
Spark,
I went with reversing the rear hubs also (Left is Right and Right is now Left). I currently have the CF tower extensions, 12mm ball studs, and went with 6mm of spacers on the stud. The 8mm of spacers on the stud left only a short amount of threads left on the ball stud which wouldn't thread into the metal eyelet where it is screwed into on the bulkhead. Maybe there is a 14mm ball stud that could be used? I have the camber link on the middle hole on the hub and the inside hole on the bulkhead. I noticed that when setting the rear camber I had to shorten the camber link a lot and it bottomed out on the camber link rod end where it was putting pressure on the ball link causing binding where when I did a swing test on the arms with the shocks off.
With all that said, I think that having a straighter camber link is a good thing. My buggy and truggy and about every RC I have seen has a camber link that is parallel with the arm itself. I am thinking though I might have to remove about 2 to 3mm of camber link (metal part) to reach -2mm of camber where the camber link isn't bottoming out on the camber link end causing binding.
Did you run into any of these issues? Is there any change to toe by reversing the rear hubs? Also, how is this Mod working out for you?
-Hoosier
I went with reversing the rear hubs also (Left is Right and Right is now Left). I currently have the CF tower extensions, 12mm ball studs, and went with 6mm of spacers on the stud. The 8mm of spacers on the stud left only a short amount of threads left on the ball stud which wouldn't thread into the metal eyelet where it is screwed into on the bulkhead. Maybe there is a 14mm ball stud that could be used? I have the camber link on the middle hole on the hub and the inside hole on the bulkhead. I noticed that when setting the rear camber I had to shorten the camber link a lot and it bottomed out on the camber link rod end where it was putting pressure on the ball link causing binding where when I did a swing test on the arms with the shocks off.
With all that said, I think that having a straighter camber link is a good thing. My buggy and truggy and about every RC I have seen has a camber link that is parallel with the arm itself. I am thinking though I might have to remove about 2 to 3mm of camber link (metal part) to reach -2mm of camber where the camber link isn't bottoming out on the camber link end causing binding.
Did you run into any of these issues? Is there any change to toe by reversing the rear hubs? Also, how is this Mod working out for you?
-Hoosier
I tried it with the L/R hubs switched but I didnt like how it was rubbing on the spring so I put it back. I never got to the point of adjusting the camber link so I cant comment on it bottoming out.
07-09-2012, 09:40 PM
When I say flip, I mean flip sides of the whole hub from the right a arm to the left a arm...
Last edited by ABN Hoosier; 07-09-2012 at 10:15 PM.
07-09-2012, 10:21 PM
More Cheese = More Speed
Scott Brown, owner of Trcr gets all the kudos on the design with the help from some valuable volunteers...
Scott is also a member of Ae Factory Team ...
BIG NEWS
Hearing today Scotty Ernst has included Trcr back on next years Show Down Tour in February....
O-Man !
07-09-2012, 10:47 PM
Spark,
I went with reversing the rear hubs also (Left is Right and Right is now Left). I currently have the CF tower extensions, 12mm ball studs, and went with 6mm of spacers on the stud. The 8mm of spacers on the stud left only a short amount of threads left on the ball stud which wouldn't thread into the metal eyelet where it is screwed into on the bulkhead. Maybe there is a 14mm ball stud that could be used? I have the camber link on the middle hole on the hub and the inside hole on the bulkhead. I noticed that when setting the rear camber I had to shorten the camber link a lot and it bottomed out on the camber link rod end where it was putting pressure on the ball link causing binding where when I did a swing test on the arms with the shocks off.
With all that said, I think that having a straighter camber link is a good thing. My buggy and truggy and about every RC I have seen has a camber link that is parallel with the arm itself. I am thinking though I might have to remove about 2 to 3mm of camber link (metal part) to reach -2mm of camber where the camber link isn't bottoming out on the camber link end causing binding.
Did you run into any of these issues? Is there any change to toe by reversing the rear hubs? Also, how is this Mod working out for you?
-Hoosier
I went with reversing the rear hubs also (Left is Right and Right is now Left). I currently have the CF tower extensions, 12mm ball studs, and went with 6mm of spacers on the stud. The 8mm of spacers on the stud left only a short amount of threads left on the ball stud which wouldn't thread into the metal eyelet where it is screwed into on the bulkhead. Maybe there is a 14mm ball stud that could be used? I have the camber link on the middle hole on the hub and the inside hole on the bulkhead. I noticed that when setting the rear camber I had to shorten the camber link a lot and it bottomed out on the camber link rod end where it was putting pressure on the ball link causing binding where when I did a swing test on the arms with the shocks off.
With all that said, I think that having a straighter camber link is a good thing. My buggy and truggy and about every RC I have seen has a camber link that is parallel with the arm itself. I am thinking though I might have to remove about 2 to 3mm of camber link (metal part) to reach -2mm of camber where the camber link isn't bottoming out on the camber link end causing binding.
Did you run into any of these issues? Is there any change to toe by reversing the rear hubs? Also, how is this Mod working out for you?
-Hoosier
Bottom of the shock tower showing how far the 12mm stud threads in with 6mm of spacers under the stud.
I have about 1mm of space between the camber link and shock spring (I used a .5mm spacer under the upper shock mount). And you can see how straight my camber link is.
07-09-2012, 10:52 PM
07-09-2012, 11:35 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
07-10-2012, 12:07 AM
With my 8mm mod the suspension works fine. No binding and the length of the camber links are fine (no need to trim, and I run -1 degree of rear camber). Also as you noticed it is not really an 8mm mod, I found with the 12mm stud the most you can run is 6mm worth of spacers. With 6mm the stud threads into the metal shock tower insert. With the hubs reversed the camber links are almost perfectly straight.
07-10-2012, 12:23 AM
Not sure if this was asked before, but I don't have time to go through over 1700 pages. Anyways, I'm having trouble with the updated steering Ackerman. I can't get it to turn all the way left or right because the inner tie rod is hitting the bellcrank. What am I doing wrong?
07-10-2012, 12:40 AM
Spark,
I went with reversing the rear hubs also (Left is Right and Right is now Left). I currently have the CF tower extensions, 12mm ball studs, and went with 6mm of spacers on the stud. The 8mm of spacers on the stud left only a short amount of threads left on the ball stud which wouldn't thread into the metal eyelet where it is screwed into on the bulkhead. Maybe there is a 14mm ball stud that could be used? I have the camber link on the middle hole on the hub and the inside hole on the bulkhead. I noticed that when setting the rear camber I had to shorten the camber link a lot and it bottomed out on the camber link rod end where it was putting pressure on the ball link causing binding where when I did a swing test on the arms with the shocks off.
With all that said, I think that having a straighter camber link is a good thing. My buggy and truggy and about every RC I have seen has a camber link that is parallel with the arm itself. I am thinking though I might have to remove about 2 to 3mm of camber link (metal part) to reach -2mm of camber where the camber link isn't bottoming out on the camber link end causing binding.
Did you run into any of these issues? Is there any change to toe by reversing the rear hubs? Also, how is this Mod working out for you?
-Hoosier
I went with reversing the rear hubs also (Left is Right and Right is now Left). I currently have the CF tower extensions, 12mm ball studs, and went with 6mm of spacers on the stud. The 8mm of spacers on the stud left only a short amount of threads left on the ball stud which wouldn't thread into the metal eyelet where it is screwed into on the bulkhead. Maybe there is a 14mm ball stud that could be used? I have the camber link on the middle hole on the hub and the inside hole on the bulkhead. I noticed that when setting the rear camber I had to shorten the camber link a lot and it bottomed out on the camber link rod end where it was putting pressure on the ball link causing binding where when I did a swing test on the arms with the shocks off.
With all that said, I think that having a straighter camber link is a good thing. My buggy and truggy and about every RC I have seen has a camber link that is parallel with the arm itself. I am thinking though I might have to remove about 2 to 3mm of camber link (metal part) to reach -2mm of camber where the camber link isn't bottoming out on the camber link end causing binding.
Did you run into any of these issues? Is there any change to toe by reversing the rear hubs? Also, how is this Mod working out for you?
-Hoosier
07-10-2012, 01:59 AM
Tech Regular
Yes, had 20,000 in the front a long time, went to a V1 home made ball diff and down to 7000 in the front, now to my slipper setup, has plenty of steering, almost too much, I even put a sway bar back on the front to try to take some steering away, that seemed better, will do some more track testing soon, I'm very happy with the handling of the track, have done all the mods on here to some point, trucks on rails, just got to hit the right slipper compo for my track and I should beat the Losi's, easy to out steer them, just can't out accelerate them of jumps etc, I'm very close to swapping to a Losi, and close to running out of ideas on the SC10, guys that could never beat me with there other trucks, now do with Losi's, very frustrating!
