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Old 07-07-2012, 01:57 PM
  #26161  
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Originally Posted by twisted
i just got my exotek front slipper plate. is there any thing i should change in my set up while using this ?

i have 30k in front diff and i read some are dropping down in diff fluid.
Drop down to 10 or 15k...............I'm currently running a mixture of 5k 1/4 and 3/4 15k kyosho grease.........
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Old 07-07-2012, 01:59 PM
  #26162  
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selling my sc10 4x4
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-nanotech.html
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by twisted
i just got my exotek front slipper plate. is there any thing i should change in my set up while using this ?

i have 30k in front diff and i read some are dropping down in diff fluid.
Can anyone explain the reasoning behind this? I recently installed this and have not changed my diff fluid.
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:27 PM
  #26164  
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what does anybody use for adjusting droop? part number?

also, can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 8mm mod? i'm looking for an explanation on how it affects things like roll center, roll moment, and camber, and how that affects the car's handling.
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:32 PM
  #26165  
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Tick Tock, Tick Tock, Tick Tock, just waiting for Coyoteslash to explode ;-)
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:37 PM
  #26166  
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Originally Posted by Maddog94
Can anyone explain the reasoning behind this? I recently installed this and have not changed my diff fluid.
The reason for the heavy fluid was to calm down the steering. With the locked front hub the truck should be less tail happy and you can use a lower fluid to get some of the steering back.

Originally Posted by RC10Nick
what does anybody use for adjusting droop? part number?

also, can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 8mm mod? i'm looking for an explanation on how it affects things like roll center, roll moment, and camber, and how that affects the car's handling.
It lowers roll center, makes the rear softer left to right. It also makes for more camber gain because of the shorter camber link length.

Makes the rear end more predictable and more locked in, still able to slide it when you want to but it seems like it is easier to recover if the rear end gets away from you.

If you are having trouble taming the rear end then the 8mm mod is your answer...If you arent, you should still have it in your box to try out.
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SMR 510RR
The reason for the heavy fluid was to calm down the steering. With the locked front hub the truck should be less tail happy and you can use a lower fluid to get some of the steering back.



It lowers roll center, makes the rear softer left to right. It also makes for more camber gain because of the shorter camber link length.

Makes the rear end more predictable and more locked in, still able to slide it when you want to but it seems like it is easier to recover if the rear end gets away from you.

If you are having trouble taming the rear end then the 8mm mod is your answer...If you arent, you should still have it in your box to try out.
Ok, thanks for the explanation. Doesn't sound like its for me, as I feel like my rear end is too planted and my truck tends to push through turns when I'd rather slide through them.
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Old 07-07-2012, 04:02 PM
  #26168  
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It also lowers the chance of traction roll because the rear will slide more
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RC10Nick
Ok, thanks for the explanation. Doesn't sound like its for me, as I feel like my rear end is too planted and my truck tends to push through turns when I'd rather slide through them.
What is your setup?

It seems the 8mm mod is best used if you are running firmer rear springs (a lot of us are running very stiff in the rear compared to the blue-blue or yellow-yellow that the manuals suggest). Once you go that stiff with the springs you need to gain back some of the rear traction you lost.

If you are pushing then you have something wrong in your setup, while my truck might push a bit on corner exit it never does on entry.
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
Tick Tock, Tick Tock, Tick Tock, just waiting for Coyoteslash to explode ;-)
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:42 PM
  #26171  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
LOL not what I expected, but I am really really really really starting to agree with you and alot of others about the damn 8mm mod being beaten to death, brought back alive, beaten to death, and resurrected again and again......
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
LOL not what I expected, but I am really really really really starting to agree with you and alot of others about the damn 8mm mod being beaten to death, brought back alive, beaten to death, and resurrected again and again......
Sick of the complaining more than the new guys asking good questions
about the truck...
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:30 PM
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I'm going to URC.
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:38 PM
  #26174  
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Originally Posted by SMR 510RR
What is your setup?

It seems the 8mm mod is best used if you are running firmer rear springs (a lot of us are running very stiff in the rear compared to the blue-blue or yellow-yellow that the manuals suggest). Once you go that stiff with the springs you need to gain back some of the rear traction you lost.

If you are pushing then you have something wrong in your setup, while my truck might push a bit on corner exit it never does on entry.
I've got so much going on right now I have to get some good track time to figure it out. Unfortunately that's time I just don't have. I've got a v2 Cdiff and 2 stage pistons from RCshox. I've also got the +3 jconcept wheels. I basically added all 3 at once, so now I've got to re-think my whole setup. I've got yellow springs all around, 35/30 (from what I hear, I should be much lighter with the 2 stage pistons, but it's all I had in my box at the time), yellow bar up front, blue bar in the rear, and most everything else set to factory settings.

The push is really only on-power. My biggest concern is getting the car to "rotate" around the turns. I feel like I can't get it to break loose when I want it to.
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:50 PM
  #26175  
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I overheard a guy that knows a guy that read on here about pinning a top shaft. Can someone explain that? And if it's done to the top shaft then does it have to be done the bottom shaft too?

And is better to use the Losi springs or the Kyosho springs? Oh wait wrong thread. B4.1 and B44 thread. Let me resurrect that question on there!
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