SC10 4x4 Thread
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Drop down to 10 or 15k...............I'm currently running a mixture of 5k 1/4 and 3/4 15k kyosho grease.........
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Can anyone explain the reasoning behind this? I recently installed this and have not changed my diff fluid.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
what does anybody use for adjusting droop? part number?
also, can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 8mm mod? i'm looking for an explanation on how it affects things like roll center, roll moment, and camber, and how that affects the car's handling.
also, can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 8mm mod? i'm looking for an explanation on how it affects things like roll center, roll moment, and camber, and how that affects the car's handling.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Tick Tock, Tick Tock, Tick Tock, just waiting for Coyoteslash to explode ;-)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Makes the rear end more predictable and more locked in, still able to slide it when you want to but it seems like it is easier to recover if the rear end gets away from you.
If you are having trouble taming the rear end then the 8mm mod is your answer...If you arent, you should still have it in your box to try out.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The reason for the heavy fluid was to calm down the steering. With the locked front hub the truck should be less tail happy and you can use a lower fluid to get some of the steering back.
It lowers roll center, makes the rear softer left to right. It also makes for more camber gain because of the shorter camber link length.
Makes the rear end more predictable and more locked in, still able to slide it when you want to but it seems like it is easier to recover if the rear end gets away from you.
If you are having trouble taming the rear end then the 8mm mod is your answer...If you arent, you should still have it in your box to try out.
It lowers roll center, makes the rear softer left to right. It also makes for more camber gain because of the shorter camber link length.
Makes the rear end more predictable and more locked in, still able to slide it when you want to but it seems like it is easier to recover if the rear end gets away from you.
If you are having trouble taming the rear end then the 8mm mod is your answer...If you arent, you should still have it in your box to try out.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It also lowers the chance of traction roll because the rear will slide more
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It seems the 8mm mod is best used if you are running firmer rear springs (a lot of us are running very stiff in the rear compared to the blue-blue or yellow-yellow that the manuals suggest). Once you go that stiff with the springs you need to gain back some of the rear traction you lost.
If you are pushing then you have something wrong in your setup, while my truck might push a bit on corner exit it never does on entry.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
about the truck...
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
I'm going to URC.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What is your setup?
It seems the 8mm mod is best used if you are running firmer rear springs (a lot of us are running very stiff in the rear compared to the blue-blue or yellow-yellow that the manuals suggest). Once you go that stiff with the springs you need to gain back some of the rear traction you lost.
If you are pushing then you have something wrong in your setup, while my truck might push a bit on corner exit it never does on entry.
It seems the 8mm mod is best used if you are running firmer rear springs (a lot of us are running very stiff in the rear compared to the blue-blue or yellow-yellow that the manuals suggest). Once you go that stiff with the springs you need to gain back some of the rear traction you lost.
If you are pushing then you have something wrong in your setup, while my truck might push a bit on corner exit it never does on entry.
The push is really only on-power. My biggest concern is getting the car to "rotate" around the turns. I feel like I can't get it to break loose when I want it to.
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I overheard a guy that knows a guy that read on here about pinning a top shaft. Can someone explain that? And if it's done to the top shaft then does it have to be done the bottom shaft too?
And is better to use the Losi springs or the Kyosho springs? Oh wait wrong thread. B4.1 and B44 thread. Let me resurrect that question on there!
![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
And is better to use the Losi springs or the Kyosho springs? Oh wait wrong thread. B4.1 and B44 thread. Let me resurrect that question on there!
![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tongue.gif)