5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
07-03-2012, 04:18 PM
how much traction can you lose with 4wd though. It can't be as pronounced as a 2wd.
07-03-2012, 04:25 PM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
I believe the ball studs on the front are 12mm and rear are 10mm. I think you can just move the 10mm to the front and put the 12mm in the rear and you are good to go. I don't think people are putting many washers under the front ball studs, but someone will certainly correct me if I'm wrong.
07-03-2012, 04:29 PM
I believe the ball studs on the front are 12mm and rear are 10mm. I think you can just move the 10mm to the front and put the 12mm in the rear and you are good to go. I don't think people are putting many washers under the front ball studs, but someone will certainly correct me if I'm wrong.
07-03-2012, 04:34 PM
You bet. But it's not new. Here's a picture posted by another user from ONE YEAR AGO. He had them then!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9378946-post11.html
I had them on my truck the second weekend I ran it.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9378946-post11.html
I had them on my truck the second weekend I ran it.
07-03-2012, 04:44 PM
I just put together who "BK" is....
07-03-2012, 04:45 PM
You bet. But it's not new. Here's a picture posted by another user from ONE YEAR AGO. He had them then!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9378946-post11.html
I had them on my truck the second weekend I ran it.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9378946-post11.html
I had them on my truck the second weekend I ran it.
..my SC10 was so-so..Colby's SC was dialed..way more than my SC10..where you been?
07-03-2012, 05:02 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
the 8mm mod increases the camber when rear shock is compressed. and decreases the camber when rear shock is stretched. （imagine a mild version of Macpherson independent suspension）
With the high CoG this truck has (thanks to the belt system w/ high gearbox), the truck rotates a lot when cornering.
During corner, having more rear camber when the car rotates, give both the rear tires more contact area with the ground.
leading the truck to have more rear grip, which it lacks.
Personally I just use the inside hole on the rear upright, increase the distance between the linkage point and the lower pin on the upright.
And use the inside hole in for the rear ball stud. decrease the distance between the linkage point and the suspension mount pin.
This produces similar but less effect as 8mm mod does, works well.
*I used the exotek locked clutch and loosen the clutch to give the rear less power. Since 4wd SC with 550 4pole motor is quite overpowered (at low speed), this setup is working just as nice as center clutch does.
07-03-2012, 05:29 PM
07-03-2012, 05:33 PM
07-03-2012, 05:50 PM
correct me if I'm wrong.
the 8mm mod increases the camber when rear shock is compressed. and decreases the camber when rear shock is stretched. （imagine a mild version of Macpherson independent suspension）
With the high CoG this truck has (thanks to the belt system w/ high gearbox), the truck rotates a lot when cornering.
During corner, having more rear camber when the car rotates, give both the rear tires more contact area with the ground.
leading the truck to have more rear grip, which it lacks.
Personally I just use the inside hole on the rear upright, increase the distance between the linkage point and the lower pin on the upright.
And use the inside hole in for the rear ball stud. decrease the distance between the linkage point and the suspension mount pin.
This produces similar but less effect as 8mm mod does, works well.
*I used the exotek locked clutch and loosen the clutch to give the rear less power. Since 4wd SC with 550 4pole motor is quite overpowered (at low speed), this setup is working just as nice as center clutch does.
the 8mm mod increases the camber when rear shock is compressed. and decreases the camber when rear shock is stretched. （imagine a mild version of Macpherson independent suspension）
With the high CoG this truck has (thanks to the belt system w/ high gearbox), the truck rotates a lot when cornering.
During corner, having more rear camber when the car rotates, give both the rear tires more contact area with the ground.
leading the truck to have more rear grip, which it lacks.
Personally I just use the inside hole on the rear upright, increase the distance between the linkage point and the lower pin on the upright.
And use the inside hole in for the rear ball stud. decrease the distance between the linkage point and the suspension mount pin.
This produces similar but less effect as 8mm mod does, works well.
*I used the exotek locked clutch and loosen the clutch to give the rear less power. Since 4wd SC with 550 4pole motor is quite overpowered (at low speed), this setup is working just as nice as center clutch does.
07-03-2012, 06:29 PM
i have plastic hubs that I'm gonna try but dont' have 12mm stud.
07-03-2012, 06:53 PM
i was reading on roll centers and the article said that you want to keep the front and rear pretty close or the vehicle handles like poo...
with the 8mm mod only being done to the rear (and i know it helps,ive done it) i wonder if we could even make the truck better by doing to the front also ?
with the 8mm mod only being done to the rear (and i know it helps,ive done it) i wonder if we could even make the truck better by doing to the front also ?
07-03-2012, 09:33 PM
Broke the steering bellcrank #91000 today. Cased the the big trippel at trcr. This factory team is nearly new, 10 packs thru it total. My question is.. Is this common? Do any of you guys upgrade to aluminum ? Like strc or some aftermarket comPany?
07-03-2012, 09:37 PM
Tech Regular
Grease the servo saver halves and make sure you leave the servo saver nut as far up as you can without messing with the steering to prevent that.
07-03-2012, 10:02 PM
lol, My point was Jake, that information changes over time. The original idea is improved upon or is replaced by another idea. Asking people to go find their own answers and read 1700 pages is unrealistic. And modding a car can be very confusing for a lot of people because it is not stock and can require drilling or special parts. The B4 thread is filled with BigBore spring and shock questions and people ask the question daily for the same reason. I have done my share of suspension geometry reading and I really don't get all the mechanics and forces all that well. So I rely on people who do understand it to simplify it for me, as do a lot of racers. Some people may not understand that this is pretty complicated science for most people. I work with people that constantly tell their peers to "google it" and refuse to be helpful. I understand not wanting to answer the same questions over and over, but it is unrealistic to think the 100s of people reading this thread will spend hours search for the correct answer and not just ask a question.
If you don't 'look' like you care, I don't think 'I' or 'we' should have to either.
As far as the stab at my "theorycrafting" obviously you don't understand the term. So don't retort.
