5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-29-2012, 10:45 AM
So thats the b4.1 hub? Interesting, let us know how it works out
06-29-2012, 10:47 AM
Catch-n da Grief
plus 1
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-15-2013 at 12:52 PM.
06-29-2012, 10:48 AM
Catch-n da Grief
+1
06-29-2012, 10:56 AM
A lot of people come here trying to go "faster". I always assume they are racing their friends up and down the street and most of the advise given is to help them drag race. But when it comes to the track, sheer horsepower and speed hardly ever win the race. I have always been faster with a stock motor in my b4 than a mod motor. One way to make my lap times crap is ad a bunch of speed. But... If your a pro level driver and can handle and utilize the power to your advantage, then its butter. So like 2% of us need max horsepower for racing. I run a reedy 540 7.5 and I can keep up with everyone in my skill level. I just have to watch my temps.
I recently had an issue like mentioned above with speed. I was running a 13.5 in my b4 buggy. And there was a double that literally everyone cleared. Even the novice drivers with their rtr kits cleared it. But I was casing the jump. I was running my esc blinky even though no one else did. It was blinky from MOD the week before when I ran a 10.5. So, I went into the esc and added 20% of variable timing. Ran a few laps and temped at 120ish. I was now able to clear the jump, but the little added power was not over whelming. BTW it was not a hard jump, it was just spaced far apart on the back straight. Like I said all of the novice could do it clean. Anyway, just thought I would share.
** Also, I agree with cherry about smooth power. I would never keep a motor that was not smooth.
I recently had an issue like mentioned above with speed. I was running a 13.5 in my b4 buggy. And there was a double that literally everyone cleared. Even the novice drivers with their rtr kits cleared it. But I was casing the jump. I was running my esc blinky even though no one else did. It was blinky from MOD the week before when I ran a 10.5. So, I went into the esc and added 20% of variable timing. Ran a few laps and temped at 120ish. I was now able to clear the jump, but the little added power was not over whelming. BTW it was not a hard jump, it was just spaced far apart on the back straight. Like I said all of the novice could do it clean. Anyway, just thought I would share.
** Also, I agree with cherry about smooth power. I would never keep a motor that was not smooth.
06-29-2012, 10:56 AM
Catch-n da Grief
+1
06-29-2012, 11:01 AM
love my novak 550 4.5 trun it dose ok. am at 12 62 and in the mid 30 mph is its sound right speed ?
06-29-2012, 11:01 AM
06-29-2012, 11:19 AM
Tech Adept
Punch control meaning Current Limiter (CL on the esc interface). If you are running 100 in hotwire under the current limiter then you are allowing any and all current to pass through. If you drop this setting to 80 or so you should notice a drop in temps at the motor with minimal change in punch. The lower you go the cooler everything will run, but the less punch the motor will get.
Unfortunately I'm not running an RX8 or my RS Pro in my SC10, I have a Hobbywing 120a ESC, the one that can run 1 cell.
In the punch setting it is called Start Mode and labelled level 1 to 9.
I have it on 1.
I have boost timing on 0 degrees and turbo timing off.
I drove it today and although I spent a fair bit of time avoiding kids who wanted to chase it round the track it felt better for having the drag brake removed and a little cooler at the end of a pack. Moving the rear camber link inboard and changing to front blues all round helped as well.
06-29-2012, 11:22 AM
wow didnt think about using the b4.1 b-tabs, looks like you actually get 3 holes of adjustment on camber length lol, using the plastic b4 hub i still really only getting "1" and "2" in relationship to the standard sc104x4 hub.
06-29-2012, 11:29 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
My last Wed. night race was in May (the race shown in the video). Let's just say I was not in the top three. In fact, I think I may have started the main along side you if your truck is the one I'm thinking of. These days I'm mostly just going on practice nights to get more wheel time, learn how to drive, etc. On the 11th I am on call at work. But I'll def keep an eye out, and will be back to Wed racing probably on the 18th.
06-29-2012, 11:35 AM
06-29-2012, 12:20 PM
but using the b4.1 b tower like you did it looks like all 3 holes line up very well. any chance of a straight on shot from the back? any chance of you measuring the increase in height from stock ballstud?
06-29-2012, 12:22 PM
Tech Regular
06-29-2012, 12:34 PM
hubs have 3 holes that change turnbuckle length (camber). if you use the C towers or b4 plastic you only get the 2 inner holes for "length" in comparison to the stock sc104x4 hub.
but using the b4.1 b tower like you did it looks like all 3 holes line up very well. any chance of a straight on shot from the back? any chance of you measuring the increase in height from stock ballstud?
but using the b4.1 b tower like you did it looks like all 3 holes line up very well. any chance of a straight on shot from the back? any chance of you measuring the increase in height from stock ballstud?
06-29-2012, 12:40 PM
my outer hole lines up with the middle on stock
and middle on mine lines up with inner on stock.
i have never really liked a shorter link in the rear, so tried to find my own way around it without getting some g10 lol
