fq06

iTrader: (12)

Fix = new arms. RPM uses better plastic IMO but those will need to be replaced over time like the stock ones even if their not broken.
When I start getting any bind on the inner hinge pin I replace.
RPM has better fit between chassis and pin holders (or arm mount).
I also run strc holders f&r and the rear uses delrin inserts... like butta

Super fine sand paper on the chassis problem area?

Arakon

Ah, no.. the RPM arms are hardly scratched (and only a few race days old), the chassis is what is being worn down by them. On my slash, I've actually seen aluminium get worn down by the RPM plastic rather than the other way around. Has anyone found thin washers that might fit on there? Putting a bit of steel in between might slow down the wear.. I am actually surprised AE didn't use something there, considering they use steel bushings i.e. in the steering where the problem would be similar.

Also, another thing I noticed.. the screw for the chassis brace at the front gets bent after the first impact already. AE already uses the strongest easily available steel for screws (12.9 grade), so going harder there is not an option. Anyone came up with an idea for this?

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

Would someone please help me understand this I am a little confused.
So raising the inside mount lowers the roll center, but raising the outside mount raises the roll center. So if you raise them both the same amount what happens? If you raise the inside 4mm and the outside 2mm is it the same as raising the inside 2mm?
Thanks!

Wild Cherry

* more unequal height between both sides makes more suspension bind = more traction

*equal height between both sides is less bind in the suspension = less traction


*lower roll center makes more chassis roll

*raising the roll center makes less chassis roll





So what happens when we raise both sides ?




raising the roll center outside for less chassis roll

raising inside to equal the outside for less bind in suspension for lower traction


8mm mod reduces chassis roll & makes for less traction....

Thus why I just posted earlier how the 8mm mod works on the track.


Less chassis roll & grip so the truck does not roll over as far & grab as hard .
Rear end rolls less and slides instead of traction rolling in sweeper turn.

vito

wc is the set up god lol

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

Yes, Thanks!

Wild Cherry

Actually Vito ?
I just learned how roll center & suspension bind
affects the way the truck drives ..
Did some research and only got more confused in fact ...

Then someone on the Ae team explained to me about how more or less bind in the suspension affected traction ...

All the sudden I understood it all ....

And I am doing my best to share with all of you ..

1BlueTaco

[QUOTE=MantisWorx;10841673]I believe when it comes to cornering, the end of the car with the stiffer suspension ( relative to weight balance) will slide first. Are you saying this is wrong?

When I said moving the shock to the inner mount would "loosten up" the rear suspension, What I meant was, it would soften the rear suspension spring rate making the rear stick better (and the front push more).

I have seen posts recommending that So Fried move the FRONT shock mount to the inner arm location. That makes sense to me, the back one, I just dont get.

PS. My Cdiff is sitting in the mailbox at work which I will get monday. We race Friday. I have been TQ'ing my class with my frankinstein pin mod + home made front slipper combo. You mean now I'm gonna have less than 4 days to totally resetup my suspension??

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

Would you mind defining "bind".
Thanks!

Wild Cherry

Same force as a tight suspension pin or ball cup....


The suspension will move up & down, sway back & forth more freely with less bind...

unequal camber links will bind suspension more

more bind = more traction but not so good for bumps
less bind = less traction but better for bumpy

boisetrucker

I have a quick question about adding weight. If I use like four kitchen scales is the best bet to have all four corners weigh the same? Sorry for the noob question but I have only recently stepped into racing and away from bashing.

Told you I would see you around Vito.

darryl80

iTrader: (24)

will a max amps 2s 6000mah lipo battery with the following measurements fit in a sc10 4x4?

length 144mm
width 46mm
height 25mm

Shins

iTrader: (1)

So the 8mm mod mimics the suspension binding or tighter suspension? Can you achieve the same thing by having shocks with full rebound and stiff springs?

Wild Cherry

no mimic


rock & sway the truck from the rear shock tower left to right, like the illustration Craig posted earlier shows



*more bind means more force needed to sway truck back & forth, making more traction...
*less bind , easier for truck to rock & sway making less traction



The mod is really good for higher traction & smooth conditions where one can find more trouble with traction rolls .

The standard hub is great for less traction and bumpy ...


Nether hub is better than the other , rather which one is best for the track conditions you are experiencing .

jray152

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=SMR 510RR;10834291]I would guess either belt rubbing on something, the tensioner or your motor. Does it get to speed fine? We had a guy at our track with a slash and the mag part of his rotor came apart from the shaft and would squeal like a mofo.


ya it gets up to speed. i cant tell if the rear wheels are getting power to the ground immediately or if the front is doing all the work until it gets to speed.

what i got from my brother is GRINDING = DIFF and SQUEAL = BELT SYSTEM. pretty damn basic when i thought about it.

going to replace belt, covers, clutch, tensioner and all bearings.

thanks for giving my post the time of day. much appreciated.