5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-02-2012, 12:43 AM
Tech Rookie
That conversation a few pages back about making a piece that you could screw into the hole next to the ball stud gave me an idea. I went and bought a pack of the little piece of metal the ball stud screws into under the shock tower. I plan on putting the extra metal pieces on top of the shock tower as ball stud shims. then you can put a screw in next to the ball stud for added strength. )You might want to drill out the threads a little) They look to be about 2mm thick.
06-02-2012, 04:10 AM
As Krio explained extra mah does equal more punch.
I just used a computer motherboard standoff to raise my ball stud. I will test it out today and let you guys know how it goes.
I just used a computer motherboard standoff to raise my ball stud. I will test it out today and let you guys know how it goes.
06-02-2012, 04:35 AM
Then I guess if that is going to come into the equation as a valid reason to run higher mAh... Us guys who have been using the necessary mAh for weight for years in 2wd, and 4wd buggy 1/10 and 1/8 are just crazies. 
06-02-2012, 04:40 AM
Correct me if Im wrong but wasn't the main reason for that weight? If so then that reason doesn't work in 4x4 acts and especially ours. Look at the during, people are running dual shorties instead of saddles because it adds weight. These trucks have so large a power to weight ratio that adding weight while gaining runtime and punch is a fair trade off. The lack of acceleration from the extra weight is offset by the extra punch.
Now all of this my be completely wrong but this is what I have learned about it.
Now all of this my be completely wrong but this is what I have learned about it.
06-02-2012, 04:47 AM
Correct me if Im wrong but wasn't the main reason for that weight? If so then that reason doesn't work in 4x4 acts and especially ours. Look at the during, people are running dual shorties instead of saddles because it adds weight. These trucks have so large a power to weight ratio that adding weight while gaining runtime and punch is a fair trade off. The lack of acceleration from the extra weight is offset by the extra punch.
Now all of this my be completely wrong but this is what I have learned about it.
Now all of this my be completely wrong but this is what I have learned about it.
Food for thought. Exotek/weight isn't a saintly piece of upgrade.
Edit: you're not 'wrong' I just find it to be a very ridiculous way to achieve such a goal.
06-02-2012, 07:30 AM
Good news and bad news, the good news is that my sc10 4x4 is now back up and operational. I installed my Brushless Hobbies 120a esc and its working perfectly with no glitching/brownouts at all. The bad news is the issue I was having was from my RX8, I guess the internal bec/cap got messed up from all the dirt and grime that got inside of it. Hopefully everything will be covered under warranty and since it just arrived at tekin today I should be getting it back sometime next week depending on the fix/replacement etc............
Anyone running the brushless hobbies with a tekin pro4 or similar motor that can give me some tips on esc settings etc? Thanks
Anyone running the brushless hobbies with a tekin pro4 or similar motor that can give me some tips on esc settings etc? Thanks
Sorry for the delay, busy making difs!! here is my brushless hobbies ESC setup using the brushless hobbies software (you can also use hobbywing and speedpassion software) but Stan tweaks the BH software himself. Since i am now sponsored by them,we are working together with updates.
Tekin pro4 geared 16/60
large fast med grip track
Cdif with 4 pins
Grid iron tires
Gens Ace 6000mah
Software version V2.0_100518STOCK
Start mode 7
narrow neutral range
boost timing 2
turbo level 5
boost start 6000
turbo open delay .5second
timing punch -2
This setup is more for speed than power, gearing with the 16t without any boost has more than enough power. keeping the boost timing low gives some midrange kick and the .5 second delay for turbo gives a huge top end power surge making sure your the one doing the passing and not getting passed. On a tighter track i would gear down to a 15, up the boost to 5 and leave the turbo where it is. That would give you lots of midrange "rip" either way motor temps range from 170-185 max, which in my opinion is the sweet spot for the Pro 4.
06-02-2012, 07:38 AM
Different tracks, different setups, different opinions Saun. I for one think it IS a saintly piece of upgrade and since i have actually tried both and went faster with it my opinion has more "weight" (get it
) than yours or anyone else who hasnt actually PUT ONE ON THEIR TRUCK AND TIMED IT!! I think there is only one person that actually tried it and said they went slower and there are 20 or so that say they went faster with it......I am just saying
Men lie,women lie , numbers dont!!
06-02-2012, 07:43 AM
Sorry for the delay, busy making difs!! here is my brushless hobbies ESC setup using the brushless hobbies software (you can also use hobbywing and speedpassion software) but Stan tweaks the BH software himself. Since i am now sponsored by them,we are working together with updates.
Tekin pro4 geared 16/60
large fast med grip track
Cdif with 4 pins
Grid iron tires
Gens Ace 6000mah
Software version V2.0_100518STOCK
Start mode 7
narrow neutral range
boost timing 2
turbo level 5
boost start 6000
turbo open delay .5second
timing punch -2
This setup is more for speed than power, gearing with the 16t without any boost has more than enough power. keeping the boost timing low gives some midrange kick and the .5 second delay for turbo gives a huge top end power surge making sure your the one doing the passing and not getting passed. On a tighter track i would gear down to a 15, up the boost to 5 and leave the turbo where it is. That would give you lots of midrange "rip" either way motor temps range from 170-185 max, which in my opinion is the sweet spot for the Pro 4.
Tekin pro4 geared 16/60
large fast med grip track
Cdif with 4 pins
Grid iron tires
Gens Ace 6000mah
Software version V2.0_100518STOCK
Start mode 7
narrow neutral range
boost timing 2
turbo level 5
boost start 6000
turbo open delay .5second
timing punch -2
This setup is more for speed than power, gearing with the 16t without any boost has more than enough power. keeping the boost timing low gives some midrange kick and the .5 second delay for turbo gives a huge top end power surge making sure your the one doing the passing and not getting passed. On a tighter track i would gear down to a 15, up the boost to 5 and leave the turbo where it is. That would give you lots of midrange "rip" either way motor temps range from 170-185 max, which in my opinion is the sweet spot for the Pro 4.
06-02-2012, 07:47 AM
I would still keep the pinion no lower than 14
06-02-2012, 08:19 AM
Marcus, I run the exotek chassis too. I am currently running yellow springs all around with 40 shock oil f and 35 rear for a med sized indoor track. Can you share your shock s/u too.
Kenny
Kenny
06-02-2012, 08:37 AM
how is everyone drilling the holes to do the saddle pack conversion? i bought the upgraded kit but not sure where to center to holes on the chassis?towards the front or back? not sure where to start? some guidance would much appreciated!
06-02-2012, 08:50 AM
Borak- I just cut out the guide in the instructions and taped it inside the chassis, and drilled.
With the rear camber mod - I am using the inside hole- and put a screw in the outside hole to make sure there was a solid connection.
With the rear camber mod - I am using the inside hole- and put a screw in the outside hole to make sure there was a solid connection.
06-02-2012, 08:57 AM
did you drill from the top of the chassis or bottom? towards the front of the chassis or rear?
06-02-2012, 09:10 AM
I didn't use their paper template. I drilled out the blind holes in the battery brace, and taped the braces and the battery where they needed to go. then I used the battery brace as the template and drilled the chassis. Once I removed the batteries and such, I redrilled and countersunk the holes in the chassis.
06-02-2012, 09:34 AM
for obvious reasons all of my setups are based around 2 stage pistons! but i know yellow rears have not worked well for too many. i would go to B4.3's (blue fronts). 40/35 seems a bit high for stock pistons but i am not sure, never used them!
