Originally Posted by macnkitty2002

Tried my RTR truck on the track for the first time last night. I raced at an indoor, wet, hard clay track that was very tacky (not blue grooved yet). Ran Calibers (not the best choice but it's all I had; Hot Bodies Beams work best at this track) and my rear end was all over the place. Steering was fine, all my temps were fine, but I just could not get any power down (RTR brushless setup is pretty peppy, but was not evident on track). Torqued down the front clicker and loosened the rear slipper a little but still fish-tailing if I put 1/2 throttle down.

What can I do to get my rear end more planted and get the power to the ground?

I am running 5k front and rear diffs, 35wt all around in the shocks, middle hole top shock tower and outer hole on the arms front and rear, and bones level ride height. Truck is completely stock.

Could it all be my choice of tires? I think that's just part of the problem. Could my slipper not be adjusted correctly? I've referenced some setup sheets but no luck for the most part.

I know it's hard to compare a stock RTR truck to race prepped kit trucks of my foes, but it's quite frustrating when everybody else's truck is stuck to the track like glue while I'm skating on ice.

Thanks so much in advance.

Originally Posted by SMR 510RR

Its a well documented problem and it is because the bullets are not making a good connection. They end up arcing and creating a whole lot of heat that ends up melting the case.

Anyone have any stick pack suggestions?

I had 4 gens ace, 2 newer ones and 2 older ones...The older two have puffed and I dont feel comfortable running them anymore and one of my new ones has a cell that will not balance and I am having a hell of a time trying to get Hobbypartz to let me exchange it. Now I dont really feel like spending money with them.

I was going to buy some of the nanotechs but everything except for the 5100 saddles are out of stock.

Looking for something of good quality and decent price (under $50 would be good). Or should I just bite the bullet and swap to saddles?

Originally Posted by SMR 510RR

Most people who are running a slipper are running from 10k-30k in the front diff, that will help to calm down the steering a bit but wont fix it entirely. Also most people running stock pistons are running 30w in the rear but not sure if that would help all that much. You can put some washers under the rear ballstud and it may help. I run on totally different conditions so I cant comment on too much but some of the pro's setup sheets for indoor clay would probably be a good starting point.

If you are going in a straight line and punch it will it break loose or is it mostly on corner exit?

Originally Posted by macnkitty2002

It happens in both places, but most significantly when I put any power down in a corner while I'm turning. I think softening up the rear suspension is a good starting point with lower weight oil and softer springs. Probably will raise the rear roll center too.

Originally Posted by fq06

The 6000's are in stock, 6600 better... but 6000 good

This at the US warehouse and the ran out of the 6000's and 6600's. Maybe if they just got the 6000's in, the 6600's are not far behind?

But then again, if you pass on Tue 60000's waiting for the 6600's and they never come... you got nothing

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...po%5FPack.html

My thought, if your staying with stick, get em while their hot.

If your spending $ on a few new batteries, you may want to just go to the darkside (saddle)

Originally Posted by macnkitty2002

Tried my RTR truck on the track for the first time last night. I raced at an indoor, wet, hard clay track that was very tacky (not blue grooved yet). Ran Calibers (not the best choice but it's all I had; Hot Bodies Beams work best at this track) and my rear end was all over the place. Steering was fine, all my temps were fine, but I just could not get any power down (RTR brushless setup is pretty peppy, but was not evident on track). Torqued down the front clicker and loosened the rear slipper a little but still fish-tailing if I put 1/2 throttle down.

What can I do to get my rear end more planted and get the power to the ground?

I am running 5k front and rear diffs, 35wt all around in the shocks, middle hole top shock tower and outer hole on the arms front and rear, and bones level ride height. Truck is completely stock

Could it all be my choice of tires? I think that's just part of the problem. Could my slipper not be adjusted correctly? I've referenced some setup sheets but no luck for the most part.

I know it's hard to compare a stock RTR truck to race prepped kit trucks of my foes, but it's quite frustrating when everybody else's truck is stuck to the track like glue while I'm skating on ice.

Thanks so much in advance.

Originally Posted by fq06

The 6000's are in stock, 6600 better... but 6000 good

This at the US warehouse and the ran out of the 6000's and 6600's. Maybe if they just got the 6000's in, the 6600's are not far behind?

But then again, if you pass on Tue 60000's waiting for the 6600's and they never come... you got nothing

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...po%5FPack.html

My thought, if your staying with stick, get em while their hot.

If your spending $ on a few new batteries, you may want to just go to the darkside (saddle)

Originally Posted by macnkitty2002

It happens in both places, but most significantly when I put any power down in a corner while I'm turning. I think softening up the rear suspension is a good starting point with lower weight oil and softer springs. Probably will raise the rear roll center too.

Originally Posted by keddy

Why does everyone want such high capacity packs? are you guys running 20min mains?!?!?

I run 7min qualifiers and 10 min mains and never have to pump more than 3000mah back into the packs.

Originally Posted by mrjeremyaaron

Run 30k in front diff, try 30wt or even 27.5wt AE oil in rear shocks, drop ride height to 24mm, 5mm under rear inside camber stud, some decent tyres and you won't know yourself.

Alot comes down to being smooth with the old trigger finger and steering wheel too, although those conditions don't sound too bad for finding grip, it shouldn't have been all that bad out there..

Originally Posted by macnkitty2002

Tried my RTR truck on the track for the first time last night. I raced at an indoor, wet, hard clay track that was very tacky (not blue grooved yet). Ran Calibers (not the best choice but it's all I had; Hot Bodies Beams work best at this track) and my rear end was all over the place. Steering was fine, all my temps were fine, but I just could not get any power down (RTR brushless setup is pretty peppy, but was not evident on track). Torqued down the front clicker and loosened the rear slipper a little but still fish-tailing if I put 1/2 throttle down.

What can I do to get my rear end more planted and get the power to the ground?

I am running 5k front and rear diffs, 35wt all around in the shocks, middle hole top shock tower and outer hole on the arms front and rear, and bones level ride height. Truck is completely stock.

Could it all be my choice of tires? I think that's just part of the problem. Could my slipper not be adjusted correctly? I've referenced some setup sheets but no luck for the most part.

I know it's hard to compare a stock RTR truck to race prepped kit trucks of my foes, but it's quite frustrating when everybody else's truck is stuck to the track like glue while I'm skating on ice.

Thanks so much in advance.

Originally Posted by SOuthernFRIED

Just forget the receiver box and trim the corner of the battery tray.. It's not that much of a weight issue.. At least ,not for those of us that have done it.

Originally Posted by sugs

Everything suggested is good but you have to start with the right tires. An indoor clay track where the hot tire is HB Beams means you need a clay tire. Calibers will never work well on a track like that. You will just get frustrated running the wrong tires because none of the other suggestions will make as big a difference as running the right tires.

Originally Posted by keddy

Why does everyone want such high capacity packs? are you guys running 20min mains?!?!?

I run 7min qualifiers and 10 min mains and never have to pump more than 3000mah back into the packs.

Originally Posted by macnkitty2002

What about the stock springs? I've heard those are a little hard for some tracks. Should I leave my rear oil at 5k and just change the front to 30k?


It's the only tire I have besides the stock tires. I got the Calibers because they seemed to be the tire that could do OK at almost all tracks but not excel in any condition. I'll definitely be getting some HB Beams or similar tire meant for hard, tacky clay conditions.


The RCShox center diff is essentially a ball diff, right? So it should allow me to track straighter when I punch it and retain more traction all around, right?

Originally Posted by SMR 510RR

Those are in the international warehouse, I am not going to pay $20 to ship 2 packs to my house.