mrjeremyaaron

iTrader: (9)

I did the exact same thing to my nano tech's..

Those batteries are great for the money, but faded badly after about a year of low-medium usage (always balance charged). Would definitely buy again though!

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

You can get it on the left side, you'll have to remove the receiver box.

if you do it on the right, you have to be willing to trim your fan shroud.

mine's on the right.

I've seen those nanotechs completely melt down before. I would not buy those.

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

It's all I can afford. Otherwise I would get some SMC or ProTek ones.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

Evil get the Gens Ace. They are what 25-30 bucks.

Believe you me I've run them hard and they work great for only 20c. Wish they made higher c rating batts.

mrjeremyaaron

iTrader: (9)

I know alot of people around here (Australia) heard the hype, rushed out and bought the kit, then really struggled with it (especially the RTR version) from a pure racing perspective. Expected the all new platform to be just like the latest series of FT ".1" buggy kits and completely dialled on every track straight out of the box. People spend big money getting all the gear then give up too quickly without learning how to set-up their truck. I stuck with mine and eventually had it kicking ass.

Now I have the FT kit and it's a big improvement over the original. Also, now that the setups are becoming well known those who stuck are super happy with this thing. Its just as fast now (if not faster), virtually 'cannot be broken' tough and doesn't have the inherit problems of the ranga or losi.

Personally, I'm loving a lighter setup, lightening fast. Tried the exotek and it made it too slow to respond. Never really had troubles with getting bumped around by the whales (losi's), lighter setup still lets you give as good as you get.

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

I have them but that just can't take my 1410 motor. They get all hot and puffy and the punch just isn't enough for the jumps at my track.

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

I just ran a full pack to the cutoff with it with new male bullets and everything was fine. Pack and connectors were cool except for deans. After 15min of running in grass:
Motor: 140°
ESC: 125°
Battery/Bullets: 95-105°
Deans: 120°
V2 Diff: 110°

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

Just forget the receiver box and trim the corner of the battery tray.. It's not that much of a weight issue.. At least ,not for those of us that have done it.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

o_0 can't handle your 1410?? I run a Pro 4 4600 that pulls more amps.

I am thinking your motor is pulling way too many amps that it should be, that's probably why your batteries are melting. I'd really look into that.

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

I'll look into it but I think its fine. I definitely notice the difference between 60C and 25C. All the jumps have very short run ups and I can't clear them with 25C but I can with the 60C.

SMR 510RR

iTrader: (2)

Its a well documented problem and it is because the bullets are not making a good connection. They end up arcing and creating a whole lot of heat that ends up melting the case.

Anyone have any stick pack suggestions?

I had 4 gens ace, 2 newer ones and 2 older ones...The older two have puffed and I dont feel comfortable running them anymore and one of my new ones has a cell that will not balance and I am having a hell of a time trying to get Hobbypartz to let me exchange it. Now I dont really feel like spending money with them.

I was going to buy some of the nanotechs but everything except for the 5100 saddles are out of stock.

Looking for something of good quality and decent price (under $50 would be good). Or should I just bite the bullet and swap to saddles?

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Those don't look as bad as mine were squished together, but far from how spread apart a new bullet is.

I have had 4 nano's in service since October with a fast high amp draw power system the whole time driving one to twice a week and the only lipo that had issues was the one that was in service when the bullet decided to squish together enough to arc.

The bullets will feel tight enough until you try a new one then you will see the difference.

The spring cage ones last longer, but I don't think it's as obvious that the spring cage is getting weak and will be arc'ing soon. They are not permanent, you have to swap those out periodically as well.

Your lipo looks a little worse than the one I retired from service, but as long as the wires connecting the female bullet to the cells is ok, it will run fine. Getting that case apart is a pain to verify so you may end up skipping it and just running it till you have the $ for another.

I would think that if it makes a few full pack sessions, it will make many more as long as your bullet connectors dont start arc'ing again.

macnkitty2002

iTrader: (7)

Tried my RTR truck on the track for the first time last night. I raced at an indoor, wet, hard clay track that was very tacky (not blue grooved yet). Ran Calibers (not the best choice but it's all I had; Hot Bodies Beams work best at this track) and my rear end was all over the place. Steering was fine, all my temps were fine, but I just could not get any power down (RTR brushless setup is pretty peppy, but was not evident on track). Torqued down the front clicker and loosened the rear slipper a little but still fish-tailing if I put 1/2 throttle down.

What can I do to get my rear end more planted and get the power to the ground?

I am running 5k front and rear diffs, 35wt all around in the shocks, middle hole top shock tower and outer hole on the arms front and rear, and bones level ride height. Truck is completely stock.

Could it all be my choice of tires? I think that's just part of the problem. Could my slipper not be adjusted correctly? I've referenced some setup sheets but no luck for the most part.

I know it's hard to compare a stock RTR truck to race prepped kit trucks of my foes, but it's quite frustrating when everybody else's truck is stuck to the track like glue while I'm skating on ice.

Thanks so much in advance.

ilanstylz

iTrader: (142)

Promatchracing is a great lipo and they offer a one year warranty, but they are all out of stock of the one for $50 but should be back in stock soon....

http://promatchracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=2s500050C

One of the main issues since the nanotech's give out a large current or whatever you want to call it is the cheap connectors that comes with them, I have switched to these and my nanotech's are holding up great and barely get warm now compared to before......


http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...rd=4mm&pg_no=4

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Melt the first cell? As in the first one off the positive lead or the first one off the negative lead?