5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-26-2012, 09:00 AM
05-26-2012, 09:04 AM
Need your guys help, normally I would create another thread for this but there are alot of guys on here that are very knowledgeable so hopefully someone can help me out.........
Ever since I started using mylaps transponders I've been having very bad glitching issue's. I had it mounted right on top of the servo, even tried moving it on top of the drive belt area....... My electronics are tekin rx8/pro4 4600kv, futaba 4pl tx/rx, spektrum 6030 servo, and nanotech 5100 65c lipo's...... Even running it with a glitch buster......... Thinking it was my transponder I took it off and it was doing the same thing, I think I may be having some interference with my local tracks timing system, because throughout the whole day it was not turned on, and as soon as the owner turned it on I started having the glitching issue's with and without the transponder. Any idea's if I'm right or anything else it could be? Also would raising or lowering the current limiter on my rx8 have any affect, and I might even switch rx's and see if that does anything......... Thanks in advance
Ever since I started using mylaps transponders I've been having very bad glitching issue's. I had it mounted right on top of the servo, even tried moving it on top of the drive belt area....... My electronics are tekin rx8/pro4 4600kv, futaba 4pl tx/rx, spektrum 6030 servo, and nanotech 5100 65c lipo's...... Even running it with a glitch buster......... Thinking it was my transponder I took it off and it was doing the same thing, I think I may be having some interference with my local tracks timing system, because throughout the whole day it was not turned on, and as soon as the owner turned it on I started having the glitching issue's with and without the transponder. Any idea's if I'm right or anything else it could be? Also would raising or lowering the current limiter on my rx8 have any affect, and I might even switch rx's and see if that does anything......... Thanks in advance
Not saying that swapping RX's won't work for you but it didn't work for me with the system I was running.
05-26-2012, 10:14 AM
one point missed on building the 2 stage piston shocks is to build with Zero , nada , zilch rebound,
05-26-2012, 10:25 AM
Kewltoy, you probably already know how to build a shock with no rebound, but to save you a search if you dont...
When you are putting the cap on the shocks, you want to fully compress the shaft up into the shock. Oil will bleed out of the bleed hole in the cap (facing up) as you tighten it down, hold the shaft all the way in as you get it to as tight as you want it.
When your done the shock shaft should not extend back out of the body, or a miniscule amout if any. You want all shocks to have the exact same amount of extension (best none, but 1mm ok) when your done.
Enjoy
05-26-2012, 10:33 AM
Good point.
Kewltoy, you probably already know how to build a shock with no rebound, but to save you a search if you dont...
When you are putting the cap on the shocks, you want to fully compress the shaft up into the shock. Oil will bleed out of the bleed hole in the cap (facing up) as you tighten it down, hold the shaft all the way in as you get it to as tight as you want it.
When your done the shock shaft should not extend back out of the body, or a miniscule amout if any. You want all shocks to have the exact same amount of extension (best none, but 1mm ok) when your done.
Enjoy
Kewltoy, you probably already know how to build a shock with no rebound, but to save you a search if you dont...
When you are putting the cap on the shocks, you want to fully compress the shaft up into the shock. Oil will bleed out of the bleed hole in the cap (facing up) as you tighten it down, hold the shaft all the way in as you get it to as tight as you want it.
When your done the shock shaft should not extend back out of the body, or a miniscule amout if any. You want all shocks to have the exact same amount of extension (best none, but 1mm ok) when your done.
Enjoy
05-26-2012, 10:53 AM
Tech Adept
05-26-2012, 10:56 AM
05-26-2012, 11:01 AM
I don't have 4 scales either so I tied thin string to the underbody mounts. Found the balance point on the string front to rear.
Then added lead strips as needed on the left of the servo to balance it left to right with a stick pack.
I wouldn't be against the saddle setup at all, wish I would have done that before I picked up 4 stick packs.
Then added lead strips as needed on the left of the servo to balance it left to right with a stick pack.
I wouldn't be against the saddle setup at all, wish I would have done that before I picked up 4 stick packs.
05-26-2012, 11:17 AM
Tech Adept
I had to run off and do a few things... interrupted.
Just getting back to shocks now.
No Diagram?
Just found this...http://www.rcshox.com/wp-content/upl...tructions1.pdf
I do see how the new washer could end up crooked.
05-26-2012, 11:52 AM
Tech Adept
Yep, Thanks!
I had to run off and do a few things... interrupted.
Just getting back to shocks now.
No Diagram?
Just found this...http://www.rcshox.com/wp-content/upl...tructions1.pdf
I do see how the new washer could end up crooked.
I had to run off and do a few things... interrupted.
Just getting back to shocks now.
No Diagram?
Just found this...http://www.rcshox.com/wp-content/upl...tructions1.pdf
I do see how the new washer could end up crooked.
The movable-loose (thick) valve, is closer to the end of the shaft, than the fixed (thin) one, and all the holes are in-line during compression.
Oh well, I'll see how it works on the track...
05-26-2012, 12:22 PM
Just ran my truck for the first time yesterday. Not too bad, I have some tweaking to do to it but it's not to far from where I want to be.
I modified the outdrives front and back (mentioned some pages back) to allow for greater up travel without damaging the diffs and it worked out great. I only need one 2mm rubber spacer on my shock shafts in the rear right now and two 2mm spacers in the front. Here's a link to another thread showing what I'm talking about.
Another mod I did was to tame the steering down on this truck. Most cars use a lot more servo travel than SC10, most around 120 -140 on the radio's endpoints as opposed to 60-90 on the SC10. This means the servo is losing some mechanical resolution and makes the steering lock to lock very fast, too fast for me. To get more resolution I used a shorter arm. Here's a drawing showing what I mean.
My endpoints are now around 140 and my steering is definitely not as twitchy as some of the other SC10s I have driven with similar setups and electronics.
Here's some pics of my truck as it sits right now. It's currently underweight, 5.3 lbs or 84.8 oz. I'm not really liking the Sidewinder and 4600, I think it's too much for the ESC to handle, it lacks bottom end. It's all I had to throw in so I figured I give it a try. Because I have some room to play with weight, I'm going to instead put in my Castle 3800 SCT and a MMM. Should never have any problems with that.
And here's my current setup sheet, it's pretty accurate.
Feedback welcome!
I modified the outdrives front and back (mentioned some pages back) to allow for greater up travel without damaging the diffs and it worked out great. I only need one 2mm rubber spacer on my shock shafts in the rear right now and two 2mm spacers in the front. Here's a link to another thread showing what I'm talking about.
Another mod I did was to tame the steering down on this truck. Most cars use a lot more servo travel than SC10, most around 120 -140 on the radio's endpoints as opposed to 60-90 on the SC10. This means the servo is losing some mechanical resolution and makes the steering lock to lock very fast, too fast for me. To get more resolution I used a shorter arm. Here's a drawing showing what I mean.
My endpoints are now around 140 and my steering is definitely not as twitchy as some of the other SC10s I have driven with similar setups and electronics.
Here's some pics of my truck as it sits right now. It's currently underweight, 5.3 lbs or 84.8 oz. I'm not really liking the Sidewinder and 4600, I think it's too much for the ESC to handle, it lacks bottom end. It's all I had to throw in so I figured I give it a try. Because I have some room to play with weight, I'm going to instead put in my Castle 3800 SCT and a MMM. Should never have any problems with that.
And here's my current setup sheet, it's pretty accurate.
Feedback welcome!
05-26-2012, 12:33 PM
I'm usually pretty good at understanding how and why things work, but I'm not quite getting this RCshox 2-stage assembly.
The movable-loose (thick) valve, is closer to the end of the shaft, than the fixed (thin) one, and all the holes are in-line during compression.
Oh well, I'll see how it works on the track...
The movable-loose (thick) valve, is closer to the end of the shaft, than the fixed (thin) one, and all the holes are in-line during compression.
Oh well, I'll see how it works on the track...
This link might help you see how they go together. Some pictures towards the end.
05-26-2012, 12:44 PM
Tech Adept
Has anyone noticed, whether if having the rubber boots on the shocks, retains dirt and causes dirtier oil sooner?
05-26-2012, 12:59 PM
offtopic but if anyone needs a brand new unused mamba max pro I'm selling.
05-26-2012, 01:25 PM
But they also take away from the performance of the shock.
I have had ti-ni shafts for about 6 months and they are fine without boots. Most of my driving is indoor but once a month I will make it to an outdoor track. Maybe because westcoast rc is such a clean track, maybe that will be different for you.
My guess is that shock shafts will get bent and need replacing before they would start showing any pitting.
Pitting will mess up the shock shaft o ring causing them to leak and perform poorly.
