5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-07-2012, 01:31 PM
The only time I ever need to run a fan on any of my RX8s is at a certain track with tons of elevation changes and loose loamy soil. It's like a sand dune hill climb half the time!
A little known tidbit, the more humid it is the cooler an esc and motor will run. Brought to you by Bill Nye the Science Guy.
A little known tidbit, the more humid it is the cooler an esc and motor will run. Brought to you by Bill Nye the Science Guy.
05-07-2012, 01:36 PM
Tech Adept
SC10 4x4, something in the rear end of my truck clicking
After doing what you've already done:
I checked the outdrives to be loose, they were.
I added shims inside the diff to tighten, and that helped, but it was too late.
I found that Traxxas teflon bearing washer / shims can work for this.
I added as many shims as I could fit... (~2-3 each side), and it helped some, but it still slipped some.
Once I got new gears to rebuild with, I was able to compare and see the wear on the old gears (slightly rounded edges, hard to see without side by side comparison).
Also, need to limit the up-travel of the rear shocks to prevent overtravel allowing A-arms impacting the outdrives causing binding. Added spacers under shock boot.
Hope this helps.
05-07-2012, 01:51 PM
so as not to beat a dead horse but with all the slipper options out there what would be the best to up grade to ?
ive heard bad things about the center diff, that it eats thrust washers and bearings. and then everyone jumping onto the band wagon with a new option (not bad,options are good) i find it hard to pick one.
yea got the rc shox ball diff and garodisc
the mtx's clutch basket
and the associated ft v2 slipper and basket..
others ?
idk anything about the pros and cons of them. ive read some on hear about them but the way rctech is setup theres alot of reading to do.
thanks to anyone for some info on these.
ive heard bad things about the center diff, that it eats thrust washers and bearings. and then everyone jumping onto the band wagon with a new option (not bad,options are good) i find it hard to pick one.
yea got the rc shox ball diff and garodisc
the mtx's clutch basket
and the associated ft v2 slipper and basket..
others ?
idk anything about the pros and cons of them. ive read some on hear about them but the way rctech is setup theres alot of reading to do.
thanks to anyone for some info on these.
Just to be clear there have only been two documented issues with the thrust bearing on the V2 dif, first one was do to no grease used on the installation, second was something that was discovered in that one of the washers has a bigger ID than the other and the bigger one needs to go on the outside. Even then there has been hundreds of them sold with no issues at all! just wanted to clear that up
Any VTS you get will ruin the pads in a day, i get PM's all day about how even the new VTS is better than the old setup but still requires constant attention. The Garodisc definitely solve that issue, if you want to keep a slipper. In a head to head battle on any track the V2 dif will outperform a slipper simple as that, but of course i am biased!! im sure others will chime in shortly!
05-07-2012, 01:59 PM
Just to be clear there have only been two documented issues with the thrust bearing on the V2 dif, first one was do to no grease used on the installation, second was something that was discovered in that one of the washers has a bigger ID than the other and the bigger one needs to go on the outside. Even then there has been hundreds of them sold with no issues at all! just wanted to clear that up Any VTS you get will ruin the pads in a day, i get PM's all day about how even the new VTS is better than the old setup but still requires constant attention. The Garodisc definitely solve that issue, if you want to keep a slipper. In a head to head battle on any track the V2 dif will outperform a slipper simple as that, but of course i am biased!! im sure others will chime in shortly!
Any VTS you get will ruin the pads in a day, i get PM's all day about how even the new VTS is better than the old setup but still requires constant attention. The Garodisc definitely solve that issue, if you want to keep a slipper. In a head to head battle on any track the V2 dif will outperform a slipper simple as that, but of course i am biased!! im sure others will chime in shortly!
05-07-2012, 02:01 PM
Hi Guys
A little something I learned about people damaging Nanotech batteries, I hope you will agree it makes sense.
The is a small weakness in the Nanotech design, its not the lipo itself its the plastic case. The plastic case around the 4mm connectors is only around 1mm thick at the top of the case and will soften so then wire pressure can distort the plastic. If you have a high current draw motor or connectors that are high enough in resistance to heat the connections up to this temperature you may distort the battery case.
I know a few poeple that suffered from melted battery cases so I decided to take my new batteries apart and solve the problem before it happened to me and cost me money!
The wire from the Lipo to the 4mm terminal inside the battery is soldered at the bottom and is fairly rigid, I knew I needed to make the connector in the battery case more rigid and not move if the temperature got high due to a high current draw motor or connectors that are high enough in resistance to heat the connections up.
The fix I can up with was to drill 2 x 4mm holes where the small + and - symbols are on top of the battery at the highest part of the case between the connectors (make sure you don't exceed aroudn 5mm depth!), then I used a silicone sealant gun to fill each side of the battery case with silicone sealant. This holds the connectors in place if they get hot enough to melt the plastic and stops the battery becoming distorted.
Sorry if that was long winded, I hope it makes sense
Gary
A little something I learned about people damaging Nanotech batteries, I hope you will agree it makes sense.
The is a small weakness in the Nanotech design, its not the lipo itself its the plastic case. The plastic case around the 4mm connectors is only around 1mm thick at the top of the case and will soften so then wire pressure can distort the plastic. If you have a high current draw motor or connectors that are high enough in resistance to heat the connections up to this temperature you may distort the battery case.
I know a few poeple that suffered from melted battery cases so I decided to take my new batteries apart and solve the problem before it happened to me and cost me money!
The wire from the Lipo to the 4mm terminal inside the battery is soldered at the bottom and is fairly rigid, I knew I needed to make the connector in the battery case more rigid and not move if the temperature got high due to a high current draw motor or connectors that are high enough in resistance to heat the connections up.
The fix I can up with was to drill 2 x 4mm holes where the small + and - symbols are on top of the battery at the highest part of the case between the connectors (make sure you don't exceed aroudn 5mm depth!), then I used a silicone sealant gun to fill each side of the battery case with silicone sealant. This holds the connectors in place if they get hot enough to melt the plastic and stops the battery becoming distorted.
Sorry if that was long winded, I hope it makes sense
Gary
05-07-2012, 02:23 PM
Need some help.
I raced my FT sc10 for the first time sat. The rear diff went out. I tore it apart and re shimmed it. seems to be fine now. I'm running the kit setup. the truck was good but it seemed stiff. Running blue swaybar in front and orange in rear. shocks 35 in front and 30 in rear and yellow springs front and rear. 1.2 pistons f & r 30,000 diff fluid in front and 5000 in rear. Any help on a better setup would be great.
Thanks
I raced my FT sc10 for the first time sat. The rear diff went out. I tore it apart and re shimmed it. seems to be fine now. I'm running the kit setup. the truck was good but it seemed stiff. Running blue swaybar in front and orange in rear. shocks 35 in front and 30 in rear and yellow springs front and rear. 1.2 pistons f & r 30,000 diff fluid in front and 5000 in rear. Any help on a better setup would be great.
Thanks
05-07-2012, 02:25 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
I got to run my V2 center ball diff this weekend and 1 thing I noticed was that the truck was noticeably slower. I lost my top end down the straight away. I ran it with 5 pins on my indoor track. Track had a LOT of bite this weekend. But that's the only thing I changed on my truck before heading out so I can only assume that slowed it down. One thing to note here is that I had a 62T spur with my V1, this is a 60T. Running a 14T pinion. Would going from a 62 to a 60 cause me to lose that much speed? Or is this maybe just how it will run with the V2 diff? I wouldn't think that to be the case. It was so much slower that I was checking my batts, my ESC, my throttle end points, basically everything, to make sure that I had it all maxed out, and everything else checked out OK. The motor temps were pretty hot after a 15 min practice run. I don't have a gun, so I can't tell you the exact temp, but I could barely touch it it was so hot. RX8 fan was on, but it was cool to the touch.
Another thing I noticed was that I developed a rattling noise as the day went on. When I got home, I put it on a stand and determined the noise was coming from the Front. When on throttle and turning, it would make the noise. It would also make the noise when I would let off the throttle. I thought it was my diff, but after unhooking the front end, I tested it again and no noise comes from the diff. So I'm thinking wheel hub bearings. Any ideas? I run a Novak Ballistic 4.5T 550 motor. Could the bearing in there be bad? I have read about the motor bearings being bad in these.
Another thing I noticed was that I developed a rattling noise as the day went on. When I got home, I put it on a stand and determined the noise was coming from the Front. When on throttle and turning, it would make the noise. It would also make the noise when I would let off the throttle. I thought it was my diff, but after unhooking the front end, I tested it again and no noise comes from the diff. So I'm thinking wheel hub bearings. Any ideas? I run a Novak Ballistic 4.5T 550 motor. Could the bearing in there be bad? I have read about the motor bearings being bad in these.
05-07-2012, 03:00 PM
Tech Regular
I got to run my V2 center ball diff this weekend and 1 thing I noticed was that the truck was noticeably slower. I lost my top end down the straight away. I ran it with 5 pins on my indoor track. Track had a LOT of bite this weekend. But that's the only thing I changed on my truck before heading out so I can only assume that slowed it down. One thing to note here is that I had a 62T spur with my V1, this is a 60T. Running a 14T pinion. Would going from a 62 to a 60 cause me to lose that much speed? Or is this maybe just how it will run with the V2 diff? I wouldn't think that to be the case. It was so much slower that I was checking my batts, my ESC, my throttle end points, basically everything, to make sure that I had it all maxed out, and everything else checked out OK. The motor temps were pretty hot after a 15 min practice run. I don't have a gun, so I can't tell you the exact temp, but I could barely touch it it was so hot. RX8 fan was on, but it was cool to the touch.
Another thing I noticed was that I developed a rattling noise as the day went on. When I got home, I put it on a stand and determined the noise was coming from the Front. When on throttle and turning, it would make the noise. It would also make the noise when I would let off the throttle. I thought it was my diff, but after unhooking the front end, I tested it again and no noise comes from the diff. So I'm thinking wheel hub bearings. Any ideas? I run a Novak Ballistic 4.5T 550 motor. Could the bearing in there be bad? I have read about the motor bearings being bad in these.
Another thing I noticed was that I developed a rattling noise as the day went on. When I got home, I put it on a stand and determined the noise was coming from the Front. When on throttle and turning, it would make the noise. It would also make the noise when I would let off the throttle. I thought it was my diff, but after unhooking the front end, I tested it again and no noise comes from the diff. So I'm thinking wheel hub bearings. Any ideas? I run a Novak Ballistic 4.5T 550 motor. Could the bearing in there be bad? I have read about the motor bearings being bad in these.
Stock hub bearings do not last long, especially if your wheels are not balanced well. Check your hub and diff bearings frequently. I have replaced all of mine with Avid ceramic bearings and all is good.
05-07-2012, 03:19 PM
Hey guys, got an rx8 and pro4 4000. Gonna gear it 15/60 with garodisc slipper pads,stock slipper. Can someone post or pm me with settings for the rx8? I have a hotwire to do the settings. Gonna be checking out west coast raceway with a friend tomorrow.
Thanks for any help!
Thanks for any help!
05-07-2012, 03:53 PM
The only time I ever need to run a fan on any of my RX8s is at a certain track with tons of elevation changes and loose loamy soil. It's like a sand dune hill climb half the time!
A little known tidbit, the more humid it is the cooler an esc and motor will run. Brought to you by Bill Nye the Science Guy.
A little known tidbit, the more humid it is the cooler an esc and motor will run. Brought to you by Bill Nye the Science Guy.
Water absorbs heat better than air, which is why water cooling is better than air cooling.
05-07-2012, 03:55 PM
Just to be clear there have only been two documented issues with the thrust bearing on the V2 dif, first one was do to no grease used on the installation, second was something that was discovered in that one of the washers has a bigger ID than the other and the bigger one needs to go on the outside. Even then there has been hundreds of them sold with no issues at all! just wanted to clear that up Any VTS you get will ruin the pads in a day, i get PM's all day about how even the new VTS is better than the old setup but still requires constant attention. The Garodisc definitely solve that issue, if you want to keep a slipper. In a head to head battle on any track the V2 dif will outperform a slipper simple as that, but of course i am biased!! im sure others will chime in shortly!
Any VTS you get will ruin the pads in a day, i get PM's all day about how even the new VTS is better than the old setup but still requires constant attention. The Garodisc definitely solve that issue, if you want to keep a slipper. In a head to head battle on any track the V2 dif will outperform a slipper simple as that, but of course i am biased!! im sure others will chime in shortly!
05-07-2012, 04:16 PM
Three races so far on my Ae VTS slipper .
I have not even had to adjust yet... ( 1.5mm thread showing)..
Just in case ?
Will take apart & inspect & clean if necessary ....
Est total track time so far = 78 min
I have not even had to adjust yet... ( 1.5mm thread showing)..
Just in case ?
Will take apart & inspect & clean if necessary ....
Est total track time so far = 78 min
05-07-2012, 04:16 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (20)
So think I’ve decided to buck the trend and embrace my Sc10 4x4 for what it really is a lighter more agile truck. It wasn’t designed to be a heave truck so why make it that way? There are so many other upgrades you can do to make it handle better I have removed the extra weight I've added and I’m going to see how it runs I was running 30f and 25 rear shock oil. Any suggestions on what to run after removing the extra 6oz of weight that I added because I thought I need to compete?
05-07-2012, 04:23 PM
sBrewer
feel the extra weight only helps , way better grip ...
6 oz ? maybe to much
suggest
1 oz on back of saddle pack
1oz right side rear of chassis
1/2 oz next to spur
feel the extra weight only helps , way better grip ...
6 oz ? maybe to much
suggest
1 oz on back of saddle pack
1oz right side rear of chassis
1/2 oz next to spur
05-07-2012, 04:27 PM
