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Old 05-05-2012, 11:18 PM
  #22756  
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Originally Posted by janga
The CVA pin. How often did you have to replace the retainers?
same here and going on 9 months
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:39 AM
  #22757  
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Originally Posted by janga
hi as you might be aware i have posted about what the cva coupler and pin were. well i am having a problem every time i drive the front right cva pin falls out. so far i have spent $25 on replacing them i have built it multiple times and it still seems to fall out. Why is this happening and how can it be fixed :confused
I believe it says in the Manual, If u are talking about the
Little Cross Pins..?.
U need a dab of CA glue on each end, they won't fall out.
Every time i do maintenance, I put another lil' dab of CA
on each hole, both sides...

BUT, i usually only need to do that in the Rear ones,
since the front have the retainer.

Hope that helps
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:40 AM
  #22758  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
The FT brace is much stronger than my CoyoteFT brace. It's a great item.

coyote
I will post you a picture real soon of a brace , is even stronger than Ae's or anyone else's I'v seen.


You might even be hitting your self in the head for not thinking of, cus its so simple...
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:49 AM
  #22759  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
coyote
I will post you a picture real soon of a brace , is even stronger than Ae's or anyone else's I'v seen.


You might even be hitting your self in the head for not thinking of, cus its so simple...
The current style brace is simple.

It's a Rod. Bolted at point A and point B. =P

(still interested in your brace, but just sayin'.)

Edited: It's not "my" brace.

Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 05-06-2012 at 03:27 AM.
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:51 AM
  #22760  
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Default Garodiscs

Originally Posted by MantisWorx
doesnt really make sense??

1) 1 set will last 50 times longer than the stock ones for only 5.00 more
2) you already have 600.00+ into your truck,whats another 5 bux?
3) i ship anywhere for 5.00 usually arrives within 10 days or less
4) absolutely ZERO maintenance EVER!!, they have more grip than the HD pads and outperform them in all areas.
Mantis,
I really hope, u don't have to defend your products!!
The Garodiscss are fantastic, I have no need for the VTS,
as i said a few pages back. I got the VTS upgrade anyway,
so i am going to get VTS garos & another pair of dual garos!!

When every1 was having the slipper probs(pre FT VTS), this is what i did....
1) I bought 2 packs of slipper hardware#91090, and choose the
SLIPPER THRUST SPACER, that was the widest"thickest"...
AE originally machined that part a little wider on some,
then others. Found 1 that was slightly thicker, used that...
2) Dual Garodiscs both sides

Never had an issue with slipping, Ever, pack after pack....
I do 1turn back on the locknut & it's 3.5mm almost every time.
Even thought i like to do slipper settings by feel, not measurements.
THX
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:18 AM
  #22761  
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I have raced twice with my truck and feel it is just lacking something... I have the pro4 4000kv geared with a 15tooth pinion running gens ace 6k saddles.

How is everyone setting the slipper ( FT kit ) ? I have mine set to slip about a foot or so, but I am thinking it may need to be set by measurement instead?

I have no problem buying the V2 center diff, I just want to try to get the most of what I have right now.
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:48 AM
  #22762  
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Originally Posted by dan-o
I have raced twice with my truck and feel it is just lacking something... I have the pro4 4000kv geared with a 15tooth pinion running gens ace 6k saddles.

How is everyone setting the slipper ( FT kit ) ? I have mine set to slip about a foot or so, but I am thinking it may need to be set by measurement instead?

I have no problem buying the V2 center diff, I just want to try to get the most of what I have right now.
I have the slipper nut tightened to the point where the threaded shaft sticks out maybe 1mm.

I had a simular issue with my first run, way to much slip, turned out it was just a washer that needed to be installed that fell out while i was getting the slipper assembly in.

FYI From what i have heard at my lhs, the slipper system that comes with the ft kit is better then the other alternatives available, you just have to have it set up properly. They all say the v2 isnt worth it now the vts system is available.

Does this help?
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:59 AM
  #22763  
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Originally Posted by losicorey
the cross pins that the spider gears rotate on. The only difference I can see is the outdrives for the FT are lightened
The diff case is the same, the only difference in the diffs is the ft ones have all the available lightweight internal parts.
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:04 AM
  #22764  
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Originally Posted by SC10 man
FYI From what i have heard at my lhs, the slipper system that comes with the ft kit is better then the other alternatives available, you just have to have it set up properly. They all say the v2 isnt worth it now the vts system is available.

Does this help?
They are just flat out wrong lol. I have used both and the center diff is much better for almost all tracks. (I can see a situation were the VST would be better e.g. pavment/carpet)
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:07 AM
  #22765  
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Originally Posted by Unlovedracer
Can you guys list the top improvements you can buy to get the most out of it if money is not an option? if money is an option? If you do can you provied links to the listed item to?
List? No.
Its prob. too late, but you would do best to start off with the ft kit(the actual truck, not the upgrade kit) its only 100(about, 80 more at my lhs, but 100 online) more, but the shocks alone are $130, then there are the sway bars, chassis brace, ect.....just get the ft. if you have the normal kit, then get the sway bar kit before you buy anything else! The guy that runs my lhs said the chassis brace and vts slipper make a big difference. All i can say is that i ran my ft kit, geared the same with the same motor and servo, against the non-ft with only sway bars, the chassis brace, and the vts slipper and it was close.


Hope this helps
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:09 AM
  #22766  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
They are just flat out wrong lol. I have used both and the center diff is much better for almost all tracks. (I can see a situation were the VST would be better e.g. pavment/carpet)
The track i race on(for most of the year) is carpet. The guys also had good results one our outdoor track.
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:16 AM
  #22767  
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Originally Posted by slow_jun
Hi Guys,

considering to get my son a FT, but just want to get some feedback as on how it is when its maintenance time, i know its a great car but from the looks of it looks like i would break an arm and a leg just to pull out the tranny to change the oil... i may be wrong but would appreciate feedback from you guys.

Thanks,
If you know what you are doing than you can get at either diff in about 15 minutes, you just need to know what not to take apart to save time. Just make sure you get the shocks built properly the first time, if any part isnt tightened down enough, even by the smallest amount, the fluid will come out and go all over everything. As long as you have the tools, and both of you are clever enough, no transmission issue should take more then a half hour to sort out.
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:17 AM
  #22768  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
They are just flat out wrong lol. I have used both and the center diff is much better for almost all tracks. (I can see a situation were the VST would be better e.g. pavment/carpet)
Also, why is it a center diff? From what i have seen the associated only has 2? Is it just something you say out of habbit or am i just a little lost?
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:33 AM
  #22769  
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RCshox makes a center diff for this truck that replaces the slipper assembly. I thought that is what you were comparing the VST to. My bad.
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:21 AM
  #22770  
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Originally Posted by SC10 man
If you know what you are doing than you can get at either diff in about 15 minutes, you just need to know what not to take apart to save time. Just make sure you get the shocks built properly the first time, if any part isnt tightened down enough, even by the smallest amount, the fluid will come out and go all over everything. As long as you have the tools, and both of you are clever enough, no transmission issue should take more then a half hour to sort out.
And another 15 to put it back together..plus the time it's going to take to change diff fluids..so about 40+ mintues..the popular "other" choice is a money pit..but it's a bit easier to work on..
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