5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-05-2012, 07:24 PM
dayum you musta nose planted real hard to do that LOL
05-05-2012, 07:56 PM
The FT brace is much stronger than my CoyoteFT brace. It's a great item. There has to be user error involved in that problem he's having. Major major lawn darting or slamming into other cars. (no offense bro, but I used p.o.s. screws in my prototype braces and never ever had this issue to this day. And i'm vicious to my trucks.)
I finally just took off my Brace and put the FT one on. It helps me slide the battery in easier with my Center mounted Stick pack. My CoyoteFT brace made it a very tight fit to get the battery to slide in.
I finally just took off my Brace and put the FT one on. It helps me slide the battery in easier with my Center mounted Stick pack. My CoyoteFT brace made it a very tight fit to get the battery to slide in.
05-05-2012, 09:04 PM
I'm still waiting on a speed control to run my truck. I haven't even been able to try my v2 diff yet. Got a good starting setup from Cameron, just waiting for the mailman to bring me this to pair with my SC411. Hopefully it's power delivery is as smooth as my LRP was, because I chose to run it over an R10. Also going to have to figure something out for tires because we put soiltac on our loamy indoor dirt track and it's like concrete. Abrasive as hell, and tons of traction until it gets a little dust in the line, then it's like ice.
I'm jelly! When I upgrade my servos, I am going to use Radiopost. I have their radio system and it is hands down the best r/c related purchase I have made. I was going to use the green servo for 4w sc and the blue in 2w & 4w buggy. Give it a shot and see how it performs. Their customer service is the best I've ever dealt with. I sent my radio in for a software update and small repair on a Monday during my lunch hour, and it was on my doorstep the following Saturday. I didn't miss a single race.
Is that you with shimmering locks of hair on your mouse pad?
Just got back from a race.
2-stage pistons were phenomenal! I could feel, see and even hear the difference. Truck was dialed on a sandy 1/8 outdoor track. Driver was not and electronics were giving me problems so I ended up finishing dead last. Every other truck was a Losi.
I won one of these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...o-High-Voltage
Is that enough for this truck? Seems very high quality.
2-stage pistons were phenomenal! I could feel, see and even hear the difference. Truck was dialed on a sandy 1/8 outdoor track. Driver was not and electronics were giving me problems so I ended up finishing dead last. Every other truck was a Losi.
I won one of these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...o-High-Voltage
Is that enough for this truck? Seems very high quality.
Is that you with shimmering locks of hair on your mouse pad?
05-05-2012, 09:08 PM
I was having the same problems for some reason ,replaced them with new ones and it still did it so i sourced a set of captured Traxxas ones and they dont come off anymore!! glad you like the pistons!!
05-05-2012, 09:09 PM
The FT brace is much stronger than my CoyoteFT brace. It's a great item. There has to be user error involved in that problem he's having. Major major lawn darting or slamming into other cars. (no offense bro, but I used p.o.s. screws in my prototype braces and never ever had this issue to this day. And i'm vicious to my trucks.)
I finally just took off my Brace and put the FT one on. It helps me slide the battery in easier with my Center mounted Stick pack. My CoyoteFT brace made it a very tight fit to get the battery to slide in.
I finally just took off my Brace and put the FT one on. It helps me slide the battery in easier with my Center mounted Stick pack. My CoyoteFT brace made it a very tight fit to get the battery to slide in.
Jorge is the anti definition of basher!! very careful driver, i doubt it was a lawn dart issue.
05-05-2012, 09:11 PM
Tech Regular
doesnt really make sense??
1) 1 set will last 50 times longer than the stock ones for only 5.00 more
2) you already have 600.00+ into your truck,whats another 5 bux?
3) i ship anywhere for 5.00 usually arrives within 10 days or less
4) absolutely ZERO maintenance EVER!!, they have more grip than the HD pads and outperform them in all areas.
Unfortunately yes you will always have to buy parts for these RC things, its just the way it is! tires ,fluids, bodies and whatever breaks or wears out, the nature of the beast!
1) 1 set will last 50 times longer than the stock ones for only 5.00 more
2) you already have 600.00+ into your truck,whats another 5 bux?
3) i ship anywhere for 5.00 usually arrives within 10 days or less
4) absolutely ZERO maintenance EVER!!, they have more grip than the HD pads and outperform them in all areas.
Unfortunately yes you will always have to buy parts for these RC things, its just the way it is! tires ,fluids, bodies and whatever breaks or wears out, the nature of the beast!
2) I am not looking at 5 bucks here, I am looking at at least 20 (more actually, since I would need VTS slipper pads, I am not throwing out the VTS slipper)
3) "usually" packages take a lot longer here lately, closer to 4 weeks.
I have no issues with buying fluids, tires, bodies and parts that break. I have an issue with buying stuff just to make it work in the first place.
Also, I'd like to point out that not one person, out of quite a few who run the VTS, has answered my original question about the slipper setting. It seems that it is impossible to get answers other than "buy something else" in this thread sometimes.
05-05-2012, 09:14 PM
1) Considering I run the truck once per week at most, I doubt I will need stock ones by the bucket.
2) I am not looking at 5 bucks here, I am looking at at least 20 (more actually, since I would need VTS slipper pads, I am not throwing out the VTS slipper)
3) "usually" packages take a lot longer here lately, closer to 4 weeks.
I have no issues with buying fluids, tires, bodies and parts that break. I have an issue with buying stuff just to make it work in the first place.
Also, I'd like to point out that not one person, out of quite a few who run the VTS, has answered my original question about the slipper setting. It seems that it is impossible to get answers other than "buy something else" in this thread sometimes.
2) I am not looking at 5 bucks here, I am looking at at least 20 (more actually, since I would need VTS slipper pads, I am not throwing out the VTS slipper)
3) "usually" packages take a lot longer here lately, closer to 4 weeks.
I have no issues with buying fluids, tires, bodies and parts that break. I have an issue with buying stuff just to make it work in the first place.
Also, I'd like to point out that not one person, out of quite a few who run the VTS, has answered my original question about the slipper setting. It seems that it is impossible to get answers other than "buy something else" in this thread sometimes.
05-05-2012, 09:26 PM
Quite a few, you have to take apart most of the front.
Speaking of the VTS, how far do you tighten yours? I tried the stock setting (~1mm of threads showing) and it felt smoother and the belt actually didn't skip under hard braking anymore, but the outside pad was glazing over very fast (15 mins of driving and you could use it as a mirror). I went to 1.5 mm, and it glazes less, but still enough to be smooth after 3 runs or so.
I'm running a 550 size 5.5t LRP X12L at 14t.
Speaking of the VTS, how far do you tighten yours? I tried the stock setting (~1mm of threads showing) and it felt smoother and the belt actually didn't skip under hard braking anymore, but the outside pad was glazing over very fast (15 mins of driving and you could use it as a mirror). I went to 1.5 mm, and it glazes less, but still enough to be smooth after 3 runs or so.
I'm running a 550 size 5.5t LRP X12L at 14t.
05-05-2012, 09:32 PM
Tech Regular
Thank you.
05-05-2012, 09:35 PM
Tech Regular
I have something in the rear end of my truck clicking anyone know what it is? I changed the belt its not that. It's not the front clicker I have that locked down.
05-05-2012, 09:35 PM
cva pins
hi as you might be aware i have posted about what the cva coupler and pin were. well i am having a problem every time i drive the front right cva pin falls out. so far i have spent $25 on replacing them 
i have built it multiple times and it still seems to fall out. Why is this happening and how can it be fixed :confused
i have built it multiple times and it still seems to fall out. Why is this happening and how can it be fixed :confused
Last edited by janga; 05-05-2012 at 10:46 PM.
05-05-2012, 09:56 PM
Tech Regular
There's a small washer that goes between the bearing and the CVD "cup". If you are missing that, the space may just be large enough for the pin to slip out.
05-05-2012, 10:21 PM
hi as you might be aware i have posted about what the cva coupler and pin were. well i am having a problem every time i drive the front right cva pin falls out. so far i have spent $25 on replacing them i have built it multiple times and it still seems to fall out. why is this happening and how can it be fixed:conf used
i have built it multiple times and it still seems to fall out. why is this happening and how can it be fixed:conf used
05-05-2012, 10:55 PM
The CVA pin. How often did you have to replace the retainers?
05-05-2012, 11:16 PM
