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Old 05-01-2012, 07:44 AM
  #22456  
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I would not be afraid of the Avid tabs as I cased a triple and landed right on the side of right rear wheel and my AE C tab is still intact with no signs of splitting or distress. I would look for the plastic hub to break before the riser but I could be wrong.
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:00 AM
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this equals 35ft and 30R, losi is about 2.5wght lighter then the assoc.
thanks dan-o
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by motobigalow
Anybody out there running Losi shock oil, I know probably a sin but that's what I run in everything, the set up I'm using says to run 32.5 from and 27.5 rear(indoor slick) but the truck seems unsettled, and I know there is a difference between ae oil and Losi any suggestions on how much thicker I should go?

I swapped to Losi oil and upped to 35 front/30 rear as it's a tad thinner. Thought I'd give it a try as many say that the Losi oil is better. But to be honest I don't notice any advantage. My truck handles the same and my times aren't any faster. But I can say that I like the AE easy to pour spout.
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:56 AM
  #22459  
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Originally Posted by SC4x4BlueBullet
has anyone had issues with their rear diff stripping on the first time out with their factory SC10 4x4. i know i built it right because my buddy is having the same issues. Any sujestions..please let me know. i love the truck i only indoor track drive it. so if anyone has any idea what i can do let me know.. thanks fellow drivers
Me and a fellow racer had the same problem. I took the diff apart the the little ledges the the cross pins sit on were messed up. Swapped in an old one from the non-factory team and haven't had a problem since
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by losicorey
Me and a fellow racer had the same problem. I took the diff apart the the little ledges the the cross pins sit on were messed up. Swapped in an old one from the non-factory team and haven't had a problem since
I've had the same issue...
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Old 05-01-2012, 09:35 AM
  #22461  
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Originally Posted by losicorey
Me and a fellow racer had the same problem. I took the diff apart the the little ledges the the cross pins sit on were messed up. Swapped in an old one from the non-factory team and haven't had a problem since
You talking about the cross pin for the sun gears inside the diff? Those sit in the Diff case which isn't factory team specific...is it?

Asking because I'm ordering parts for a diff re-build since something stripped on me last night.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
The short answer is it changes the roll center without changing the camber curve. For the long answer, I wrote a post a couple days back. You can find it here.

I would not be inclined to use the Avid hubs on the SC10 4x4. I do not think they are robust enough for use on a six pound 4wd vehicle. For a 2w buggy, they'll be fine.
Thanks.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:39 AM
  #22463  
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Originally Posted by JLinney
I would not be afraid of the Avid tabs as I cased a triple and landed right on the side of right rear wheel and my AE C tab is still intact with no signs of splitting or distress. I would look for the plastic hub to break before the riser but I could be wrong.
The AE C hub doesn't have two holes Siamese drilled in the graphite. Plus, you'll have to hog it out even more so the metric ball studs can go through it. My concern is the missing material will allow the ball stud to pull through the unused "adjustment" hole. I think the type of failure is called "punching sheer" but I'm not certain I'm using the terminology correctly. My wife is/was a structural engineer and is always quick to mind me.

Cameron - post pictures of your broken parts!
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:47 AM
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Very good point about the holes. Totally missed that aspect.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:58 AM
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I've noticed something about my shocks from my Kit SC10 4x4. My springs rub on the shock bodies, the nut part where you hold them to assemble them. Is this a common thing? It's wearing the finish off and rounding the metal a little.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:13 AM
  #22466  
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Originally Posted by 06sportster
I've noticed something about my shocks from my Kit SC10 4x4. My springs rub on the shock bodies, the nut part where you hold them to assemble them. Is this a common thing? It's wearing the finish off and rounding the metal a little.
Someone posted a fix for this way back... It can be fixed by trimming the end of the springs. Works for most shocks.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:14 AM
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I ran the VTS slipper for the first time today, and it felt great.. however, I noticed that the outer slipper pad (the side that rubs on the outside hub) was rather glazed again. I tightened the slipper some more, but is it normal to slip too much with a 550 size motor? The inner sides were just barely glazed.

Also, I noticed something strange. My brother in law runs the same truck and motor, but his top speed (even with stock slipper on both and identical gearing) is quite a bit lower than mine. On a long straight, I can easily overtake him at full throttle. He has no binding in the driveline. Only difference is that he has the clicker open, but under throttle, it runs in 4WD too afterall. Any idea on this?
Also, he has a lot more traction.. we both use the same tires, same age of tires etc.. while my rear end has a tendency to slip around in corners and get nervous on the straight, his truck drives smoother, more traction, but also larger turning radius.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 06sportster
I've noticed something about my shocks from my Kit SC10 4x4. My springs rub on the shock bodies, the nut part where you hold them to assemble them. Is this a common thing? It's wearing the finish off and rounding the metal a little.
Page 475...
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by n8b
Page 475...
Thanks, saved me lots of time searching for it!
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:28 PM
  #22470  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
The AE C hub doesn't have two holes Siamese drilled in the graphite. Plus, you'll have to hog it out even more so the metric ball studs can go through it. My concern is the missing material will allow the ball stud to pull through the unused "adjustment" hole. I think the type of failure is called "punching sheer" but I'm not certain I'm using the terminology correctly. My wife is/was a structural engineer and is always quick to mind me.

Cameron - post pictures of your broken parts!
no. I knew the material I had was not up the the task but I wanted to test what I though was a better camber location for the +8. It worked real good. Just was not up to the task of down siding at a angle to get the 180 turn after the landing. The I have some new material I will make some new ones with and I believe Marcus is going to send me set he made to test for him.
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