SC10 4x4 Thread
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It all has to do with camber gain. you will notice it right away when you push the rear down and force it a little bit to the right or left. simulating your truck in a corner.
the rear tire stays parallel to the surface, ( 0 camber ). in stock situation your rear tire goes from negative to positive camber thus losing traction .
I have no template, I have copied it from the b4.1 FT hubs. like AE copies our mods, we can copy theirs![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
the rise of the camber link is a whopping 9 mm
the rear tire stays parallel to the surface, ( 0 camber ). in stock situation your rear tire goes from negative to positive camber thus losing traction .
I have no template, I have copied it from the b4.1 FT hubs. like AE copies our mods, we can copy theirs
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
the rise of the camber link is a whopping 9 mm
thanks Jim
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I do not know your griplevel. I have not run this mod on very high traction.
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
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The slipper just needs an upgrade.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
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I have been testing this yesterday.
I have to say that this is one of my favourites modifications next to the MTK slipperclutch basket.
here is my setup : http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...204/index.html
With this mod the rear of the truck stay much more planted throughout the whole cornering, even at high speed.
I can now do some powerslides coming up the straightaway out of an 180, I never was able to do this before, resulting in the rear end coming out of control.
It is now easier to push this truck harder and harder.
![](http://i39.tinypic.com/np3vxf.jpg)
edit: here you have a video of the track I have tested this, so you get the idea. sorry that I have no video of my sc10 4x4 running with this, you see my yellow dex210 here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bitr...1&feature=plcp
I have to say that this is one of my favourites modifications next to the MTK slipperclutch basket.
here is my setup : http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...204/index.html
With this mod the rear of the truck stay much more planted throughout the whole cornering, even at high speed.
I can now do some powerslides coming up the straightaway out of an 180, I never was able to do this before, resulting in the rear end coming out of control.
It is now easier to push this truck harder and harder.
![](http://i39.tinypic.com/np3vxf.jpg)
edit: here you have a video of the track I have tested this, so you get the idea. sorry that I have no video of my sc10 4x4 running with this, you see my yellow dex210 here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bitr...1&feature=plcp
Tech Regular
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Just wanted to share some results from this past weekend. Finished building the FT kit last week.
Electronics:
Orion r10 pro
Tekin pro4 4000
11/62 gearing
I set up the truck to start with Kody's setup from the Spektrum race. Only thing I changed was the shock position on the rear arm from inside to outside and I am running bladders in the shocks not emulsion setup. I TQ'ed and finished second in the A due to a crash with a lapper
. All in all it was a great race. It was a large 1/8 track that was a bit loose and dusty. Temps on the esc were 109 and 130 on the motor. Only complaint I had was the slipper (FT) is very inconsistent. I just ordered the RCShox Center diff but until I receive it, is there anything I can do to help with this?
Thanks!
Electronics:
Orion r10 pro
Tekin pro4 4000
11/62 gearing
I set up the truck to start with Kody's setup from the Spektrum race. Only thing I changed was the shock position on the rear arm from inside to outside and I am running bladders in the shocks not emulsion setup. I TQ'ed and finished second in the A due to a crash with a lapper
![flaming mad](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/angryfire.gif)
Thanks!
Try a 15 tooth pinion.
I run 15/60 on my Pro4 4K and 35deg of timing on MMP from 8K to 17,200RPM.
Most people won't need to run this kind of timing but on a medium sized 10th scale outdoor track I temp at 125F ESC and 160F motor after 8min main.
15/62 will be much more efficient than your 11/62.
Center diff is much more consistent than slipper and you don't have to rely on running thicker diff fluid in front.
Replace your diff spring when you install your new center diff. Mine was sacked out when I installed mine. I used the V2 diff spring from the SC10 2wd.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (34)
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11/62 is too short with the Pro4 4K.
Try a 15 tooth pinion.
I run 15/60 on my Pro4 4K and 35deg of timing on MMP from 8K to 17,200RPM.
Most people won't need to run this kind of timing but on a medium sized 10th scale outdoor track I temp at 125F ESC and 160F motor after 8min main.
15/62 will be much more efficient than your 11/62.
Center diff is much more consistent than slipper and you don't have to rely on running thicker diff fluid in front.
Replace your diff spring when you install your new center diff. Mine was sacked out when I installed mine. I used the V2 diff spring from the SC10 2wd.
Try a 15 tooth pinion.
I run 15/60 on my Pro4 4K and 35deg of timing on MMP from 8K to 17,200RPM.
Most people won't need to run this kind of timing but on a medium sized 10th scale outdoor track I temp at 125F ESC and 160F motor after 8min main.
15/62 will be much more efficient than your 11/62.
Center diff is much more consistent than slipper and you don't have to rely on running thicker diff fluid in front.
Replace your diff spring when you install your new center diff. Mine was sacked out when I installed mine. I used the V2 diff spring from the SC10 2wd.
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Got great news, CKHOBBY has great customer service.......... I called them today and they are sending me out a brand new esc and program card, no questions asked.............
Tech Initiate
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Guys,
I have the truck working pretty well with the center diff, chassis brace and other changes i've made from what I have learned here. I am ready to move on to upgrading the stock rtr esc and motor and need suggestions. I am not worried to much about price, but what I am looking for is a fast reliable combo that is also easy to get and run. I'm the kind of guy that will probably install the combo and never touch the settings once it runs good. Just looking for something that doesn't require an electrical engineering degree to make it perform well. I am currently running a savox 1258 servo which may affect some of your opinions.
Thanks
Jody
I have the truck working pretty well with the center diff, chassis brace and other changes i've made from what I have learned here. I am ready to move on to upgrading the stock rtr esc and motor and need suggestions. I am not worried to much about price, but what I am looking for is a fast reliable combo that is also easy to get and run. I'm the kind of guy that will probably install the combo and never touch the settings once it runs good. Just looking for something that doesn't require an electrical engineering degree to make it perform well. I am currently running a savox 1258 servo which may affect some of your opinions.
Thanks
Jody
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
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Tekin Pro4/RX8
Castle 1410/MMP + BEC
Castle 1410/MMP + BEC
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Guys,
I have the truck working pretty well with the center diff, chassis brace and other changes i've made from what I have learned here. I am ready to move on to upgrading the stock rtr esc and motor and need suggestions. I am not worried to much about price, but what I am looking for is a fast reliable combo that is also easy to get and run. I'm the kind of guy that will probably install the combo and never touch the settings once it runs good. Just looking for something that doesn't require an electrical engineering degree to make it perform well.
Thanks
Jody
I have the truck working pretty well with the center diff, chassis brace and other changes i've made from what I have learned here. I am ready to move on to upgrading the stock rtr esc and motor and need suggestions. I am not worried to much about price, but what I am looking for is a fast reliable combo that is also easy to get and run. I'm the kind of guy that will probably install the combo and never touch the settings once it runs good. Just looking for something that doesn't require an electrical engineering degree to make it perform well.
Thanks
Jody
Best combo out the IMO, tekin rx8 and pro4 motor
Other good ones:
Hobbywing 120a esc and tenshock sc411 motor
Castle MMP castle 1410 3800kv motor
Orion R10 pro 120a esc and 550 can motor.......
Toro 120a esc and 4pole toro motor
Like stated earlier to me the tekin rx8 and pro4 motor is great, yeah it can get a little confusing if your not used to programming esc's, but tekin's website has a link that describes what each setting is and what it does............... As well as several youtube vid's on how to program it.........Plue tekin's warranty/customer service is great.......
Tech Apprentice
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Guys with the older kit model, not FT, did you receive the shock cap o-rings in your kit to go emulsion?