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Old 04-09-2012, 09:56 AM
  #21091  
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Originally Posted by murky123
It all has to do with camber gain. you will notice it right away when you push the rear down and force it a little bit to the right or left. simulating your truck in a corner.
the rear tire stays parallel to the surface, ( 0 camber ). in stock situation your rear tire goes from negative to positive camber thus losing traction .

I have no template, I have copied it from the b4.1 FT hubs. like AE copies our mods, we can copy theirs

the rise of the camber link is a whopping 9 mm
Murky, this past weekend i ran my truck for the first time and at the end of the sweeper I would loose it. I often would spin around unless i slow down. would this mod or anything else help me out?

thanks Jim
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:59 AM
  #21092  
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Originally Posted by MattP
So by adding to the hub are you adding to the roll center of the truck?

That is raising the Roll center which is opposite of what i had to do to keep from traction rolling on large high speed sweepers. I am curious on how it handles, guess i need to cut some up and try!!
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:48 AM
  #21093  
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Originally Posted by alexaj46
Murky, this past weekend i ran my truck for the first time and at the end of the sweeper I would loose it. I often would spin around unless i slow down. would this mod or anything else help me out?

thanks Jim
I guess it would. for a few bucks and a little handycraft you can make it yourself en try / test.

I do not know your griplevel. I have not run this mod on very high traction.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:03 AM
  #21094  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Is it stock? If so get the Clutch basket/garodisks or the Center diff.
Yup it is stock. running the 5.5sc tekin sc motor 13t pinion. I was thinking about trying the 4.5
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:05 AM
  #21095  
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The slipper just needs an upgrade.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:21 AM
  #21096  
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Originally Posted by murky123
I have been testing this yesterday.
I have to say that this is one of my favourites modifications next to the MTK slipperclutch basket.

here is my setup : http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...204/index.html

With this mod the rear of the truck stay much more planted throughout the whole cornering, even at high speed.

I can now do some powerslides coming up the straightaway out of an 180, I never was able to do this before, resulting in the rear end coming out of control.

It is now easier to push this truck harder and harder.



edit: here you have a video of the track I have tested this, so you get the idea. sorry that I have no video of my sc10 4x4 running with this, you see my yellow dex210 here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bitr...1&feature=plcp
I need clarification on this. My 4x was traction rolling so I add 7 shims under the ball stud on the rear shock tower and 5 on the front. This fixed my issue. Now if I remove the shims under the ball studs and just raise the camber link on the rear hubs like in the pic does it give the same result as adding the shims under the studs on the tower side. I would rather raise the link on the hubs verses having to use longer ball studs. I have a fear they might snap off.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:26 AM
  #21097  
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Originally Posted by rbcts
Just wanted to share some results from this past weekend. Finished building the FT kit last week.

Electronics:
Orion r10 pro
Tekin pro4 4000
11/62 gearing

I set up the truck to start with Kody's setup from the Spektrum race. Only thing I changed was the shock position on the rear arm from inside to outside and I am running bladders in the shocks not emulsion setup. I TQ'ed and finished second in the A due to a crash with a lapper . All in all it was a great race. It was a large 1/8 track that was a bit loose and dusty. Temps on the esc were 109 and 130 on the motor. Only complaint I had was the slipper (FT) is very inconsistent. I just ordered the RCShox Center diff but until I receive it, is there anything I can do to help with this?

Thanks!
11/62 is too short with the Pro4 4K.
Try a 15 tooth pinion.

I run 15/60 on my Pro4 4K and 35deg of timing on MMP from 8K to 17,200RPM.
Most people won't need to run this kind of timing but on a medium sized 10th scale outdoor track I temp at 125F ESC and 160F motor after 8min main.

15/62 will be much more efficient than your 11/62.
Center diff is much more consistent than slipper and you don't have to rely on running thicker diff fluid in front.
Replace your diff spring when you install your new center diff. Mine was sacked out when I installed mine. I used the V2 diff spring from the SC10 2wd.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:38 AM
  #21098  
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Originally Posted by F_ME
11/62 is too short with the Pro4 4K.
Try a 15 tooth pinion.

I run 15/60 on my Pro4 4K and 35deg of timing on MMP from 8K to 17,200RPM.
Most people won't need to run this kind of timing but on a medium sized 10th scale outdoor track I temp at 125F ESC and 160F motor after 8min main.

15/62 will be much more efficient than your 11/62.
Center diff is much more consistent than slipper and you don't have to rely on running thicker diff fluid in front.
Replace your diff spring when you install your new center diff. Mine was sacked out when I installed mine. I used the V2 diff spring from the SC10 2wd.
I'll give it a try. I will be taking the truck out this week and doing some tuning. Thanks for the advice I will defenitely try it out and post back with some results.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:54 AM
  #21099  
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Originally Posted by fq06
That's the Toro combo? That sucks... and we were just talking about that yesterday. I guess you don't have to pm me with your impression of that combo.
Got great news, CKHOBBY has great customer service.......... I called them today and they are sending me out a brand new esc and program card, no questions asked.............
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:06 PM
  #21100  
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Guys,
I have the truck working pretty well with the center diff, chassis brace and other changes i've made from what I have learned here. I am ready to move on to upgrading the stock rtr esc and motor and need suggestions. I am not worried to much about price, but what I am looking for is a fast reliable combo that is also easy to get and run. I'm the kind of guy that will probably install the combo and never touch the settings once it runs good. Just looking for something that doesn't require an electrical engineering degree to make it perform well. I am currently running a savox 1258 servo which may affect some of your opinions.
Thanks
Jody
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:09 PM
  #21101  
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Tekin Pro4/RX8
Castle 1410/MMP + BEC
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:11 PM
  #21102  
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Originally Posted by jodyfj40
Guys,
I have the truck working pretty well with the center diff, chassis brace and other changes i've made from what I have learned here. I am ready to move on to upgrading the stock rtr esc and motor and need suggestions. I am not worried to much about price, but what I am looking for is a fast reliable combo that is also easy to get and run. I'm the kind of guy that will probably install the combo and never touch the settings once it runs good. Just looking for something that doesn't require an electrical engineering degree to make it perform well.
Thanks
Jody

Best combo out the IMO, tekin rx8 and pro4 motor

Other good ones:

Hobbywing 120a esc and tenshock sc411 motor

Castle MMP castle 1410 3800kv motor

Orion R10 pro 120a esc and 550 can motor.......

Toro 120a esc and 4pole toro motor

Like stated earlier to me the tekin rx8 and pro4 motor is great, yeah it can get a little confusing if your not used to programming esc's, but tekin's website has a link that describes what each setting is and what it does............... As well as several youtube vid's on how to program it.........Plue tekin's warranty/customer service is great.......
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:12 PM
  #21103  
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Guys with the older kit model, not FT, did you receive the shock cap o-rings in your kit to go emulsion?
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:13 PM
  #21104  
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Originally Posted by foots
Guys with the older kit model, not FT, did you receive the shock cap o-rings in your kit to go emulsion?
Yes, if you did not contact AE and hopefully you'll get Chris Jaroz and he'll send you a set out right away...........
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:21 PM
  #21105  
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Originally Posted by foots
Guys with the older kit model, not FT, did you receive the shock cap o-rings in your kit to go emulsion?
Can cut the inside out of the bladder and you can go emulsion...
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