5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
04-02-2012, 09:34 AM
Mine looked like that out of the box last may. A really funny marble glaze. The Brand new trucks look like that and lose it in the first covering of junk. Least I think so. I know mine in the first batch of original 4x4's looked like that though.
04-02-2012, 09:41 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
I just finished with my FT build this morning. I installed the electronics in it and took it out for a test run on the driveway. After about 30-60 secs, i noticed a slight hesitation and glitch, but it kept going. I wasn't doing anything too hard with it, then all of a sudden it stopped and smoke came billowing out from under the body. CRAP! I thought that I just ruined my new FT truck.
I quickly see that the ESC is toast, melted, and close to being on fire. I quickly pull the wires out of my saddles. Now I am trying to understand what could have occurred.
Here are the electronics that I was using:
ESC: Novak Havoc SC with X-Drive - It was a NEW warranty replacement from Novak - However, I saw that the Havoc Pro SC sticker on it was covering a Kinetic sticker (not sure if that has anything to do with it - Kinetic ESC badged as a Havoc Pro SC.
Motor: Tekin Pro 4
Battery: Reedy Saddle Pack
I installed the ESC wires correctly. A to A, B to B, and C to C. Sensor wire. And the battery connectors.
Looking at the ESC, it melted the battery leads clean off.
I wanted to check the Reedy pack to see that no damage was done and I through them into another car and they powered it just fine. At least, I did not fry a lipo in all of this. I also hope that I did not hurt the Tekin Pro 4.
At any rate, has anyone ever had such a problem? What could have caused my ESC to melt/burn/fry??? I am at a loss here.
I quickly see that the ESC is toast, melted, and close to being on fire. I quickly pull the wires out of my saddles. Now I am trying to understand what could have occurred.
Here are the electronics that I was using:
ESC: Novak Havoc SC with X-Drive - It was a NEW warranty replacement from Novak - However, I saw that the Havoc Pro SC sticker on it was covering a Kinetic sticker (not sure if that has anything to do with it - Kinetic ESC badged as a Havoc Pro SC.
Motor: Tekin Pro 4
Battery: Reedy Saddle Pack
I installed the ESC wires correctly. A to A, B to B, and C to C. Sensor wire. And the battery connectors.
Looking at the ESC, it melted the battery leads clean off.
I wanted to check the Reedy pack to see that no damage was done and I through them into another car and they powered it just fine. At least, I did not fry a lipo in all of this. I also hope that I did not hurt the Tekin Pro 4.
At any rate, has anyone ever had such a problem? What could have caused my ESC to melt/burn/fry??? I am at a loss here.
Last edited by jamr1130; 04-02-2012 at 09:57 AM. Reason: can't spell...spellchecked.
04-02-2012, 09:42 AM
In order to use a new plastic or material , Ae will have to make new molds for that material ....
So you won't be seeing any changes in the plastic anytime soon...
So you won't be seeing any changes in the plastic anytime soon...
04-02-2012, 10:36 AM
so what is a step forward then??
I am curious to hear what would be a step forward if the 2 stages are a step backwards.
I an using the rc shox 2 stages on my truck and buggies and they made a pretty big difference on my lighter sc 10 4x.
Have you even tried them?
What are your thoughts as to why they are a step in the wrong direction
Old&slow
I an using the rc shox 2 stages on my truck and buggies and they made a pretty big difference on my lighter sc 10 4x.
Have you even tried them?
What are your thoughts as to why they are a step in the wrong direction
Old&slow
04-02-2012, 11:05 AM
got my slipper set to day on the road it slipps for 2 3 feet.
04-02-2012, 11:06 AM
Ok, i thoug maybe they went to a stiffer material which would have been nice!
04-02-2012, 12:44 PM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
What shims are you guys using to shim the differentials? I searched through some prior posts and it sounds like some were using shims (from the differential rebuild kit) and doubling them up on at least one side. Is there a part number to just order the shim without ordering an entire differential rebuild kit? Or, some other washer that people have found works well?
04-02-2012, 12:48 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
I'm currently awaiting some shims from Tony's Screws that are .1mm thick that I am gonna try. Also waiting on some bearings for the inner rear hub position as my kit had a defective one
to finish my build. This bitch is gonna be right before it sees dirt or a LOSI
.
to finish my build. This bitch is gonna be right before it sees dirt or a LOSI.
04-02-2012, 12:53 PM
I picked up a pack of 5x10 shims that are .2mm thick (stock are .1 I think...) and they don't deform or wear as quick as two separate shims.
04-02-2012, 12:58 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
My stock shims measured right at .2mm
04-02-2012, 01:07 PM
2 stage pistons
I am curious to hear what would be a step forward if the 2 stages are a step backwards.
I an using the rc shox 2 stages on my truck and buggies and they made a pretty big difference on my lighter sc 10 4x.
Have you even tried them?
What are your thoughts as to why they are a step in the wrong direction
Old&slow
I an using the rc shox 2 stages on my truck and buggies and they made a pretty big difference on my lighter sc 10 4x.
Have you even tried them?
What are your thoughts as to why they are a step in the wrong direction
Old&slow
The steering rack other than price is not as nice as RCShox. I am all about tuning options and 2 extra holes has me covered at any track I will run at over the FT bar. Bearing pivots and flex free material are a bonus too.
04-02-2012, 01:07 PM
04-02-2012, 02:02 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
With Blue Front springs on Rear, back end kicks out
So I finally got on the bandwagon and put the Front Blue springs on the rear shocks. While it flew much better for me, I found the back end kicked out a lot with my driving style. I know everyones styles are different and I did get better with how the truck handled as the day went on, I can't help but feel switching the springs caused it to kick out. It's the only thing I changed. I'm running a RX8/Novak Ballistic 4.5T combo with the V1 center ball diff. I have 7k in the front diff, 5k in the rear. Front shocks have 30, rear shocks have 25. Running Suburbs MC tires and Hazard rims.
Any ideas how I can prevent the back end from kicking out on me? It'd kick out as I slowed down coming into corners. I generally coast into a corner and turn without using brakes at all. Where I really had an issue was coming into a sweeper after a long straightaway.
I also had what I believe is some traction roll going on. There's one corner where you make a 90 degree right hand turn, then another right hander down a hill right after. I found myself rolling over a lot as I can down that hill. Then you make a 180 turn to the left with some bumps in it. I found myself rolling a lot there too. I don't have any spacers under the ball studs. Would it help me to add that?
I really like the Blue Fronts in the back for better jumping, but not sure if I can handle the back end kicking out all the time. At least for my driving style.
Any ideas how I can prevent the back end from kicking out on me? It'd kick out as I slowed down coming into corners. I generally coast into a corner and turn without using brakes at all. Where I really had an issue was coming into a sweeper after a long straightaway.
I also had what I believe is some traction roll going on. There's one corner where you make a 90 degree right hand turn, then another right hander down a hill right after. I found myself rolling over a lot as I can down that hill. Then you make a 180 turn to the left with some bumps in it. I found myself rolling a lot there too. I don't have any spacers under the ball studs. Would it help me to add that?
I really like the Blue Fronts in the back for better jumping, but not sure if I can handle the back end kicking out all the time. At least for my driving style.
04-02-2012, 02:05 PM
So I finally got on the bandwagon and put the Front Blue springs on the rear shocks. While it flew much better for me, I found the back end kicked out a lot with my driving style. I know everyones styles are different and I did get better with how the truck handled as the day went on, I can't help but feel switching the springs caused it to kick out. It's the only thing I changed. I'm running a RX8/Novak Ballistic 4.5T combo with the V1 center ball diff. I have 7k in the front diff, 5k in the rear. Front shocks have 30, rear shocks have 25. Running Suburbs MC tires and Hazard rims.
Any ideas how I can prevent the back end from kicking out on me? It'd kick out as I slowed down coming into corners. I generally coast into a corner and turn without using brakes at all. Where I really had an issue was coming into a sweeper after a long straightaway.
I also had what I believe is some traction roll going on. There's one corner where you make a 90 degree right hand turn, then another right hander down a hill right after. I found myself rolling over a lot as I can down that hill. Then you make a 180 turn to the left with some bumps in it. I found myself rolling a lot there too. I don't have any spacers under the ball studs. Would it help me to add that?
I really like the Blue Fronts in the back for better jumping, but not sure if I can handle the back end kicking out all the time. At least for my driving style.
Any ideas how I can prevent the back end from kicking out on me? It'd kick out as I slowed down coming into corners. I generally coast into a corner and turn without using brakes at all. Where I really had an issue was coming into a sweeper after a long straightaway.
I also had what I believe is some traction roll going on. There's one corner where you make a 90 degree right hand turn, then another right hander down a hill right after. I found myself rolling over a lot as I can down that hill. Then you make a 180 turn to the left with some bumps in it. I found myself rolling a lot there too. I don't have any spacers under the ball studs. Would it help me to add that?
I really like the Blue Fronts in the back for better jumping, but not sure if I can handle the back end kicking out all the time. At least for my driving style.
04-02-2012, 02:24 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
I picked up a SC10 4x4 used roller 125.00
Tenshock 401 4600kv motor 75.00
B44.1 saddle pack kit 65.00
FT screw kit
RPM Rear skid plate
Lightweight front and rear upper shaft
Hitech 7985mg 55.00
I need to settle on a esc and battery, I have a few choices of ESC already RX8, Brushless Hobbies 120amp, Kinetic 2s ....as for battery I am hoping to get some GENS 5200 or 6000
Any input on things I may missed , which ESC to use, other battery choices. I want a have a well built race rig on a regular budget.
Tenshock 401 4600kv motor 75.00
B44.1 saddle pack kit 65.00
FT screw kit
RPM Rear skid plate
Lightweight front and rear upper shaft
Hitech 7985mg 55.00
I need to settle on a esc and battery, I have a few choices of ESC already RX8, Brushless Hobbies 120amp, Kinetic 2s ....as for battery I am hoping to get some GENS 5200 or 6000
Any input on things I may missed , which ESC to use, other battery choices. I want a have a well built race rig on a regular budget.
