SC10 4x4 Thread
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I wonder though. We never heard about this problem until I vented here about it and then all of a sudden: everyone elses just started Exploding in their hands.
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WARNING:
400wat Chargers are great and all. I use a Hitec x2 200wat dual charger.
Your battery MUST say on it it can charger at higher rates than 1C (not burst, different system)
2c - twice it's mAh
3c - three times it's mAh
etc...
If your battery does not have this rating listed, call them or don't do it. You will cause major dangers.
You MUST balance your battery every time you "Fast Charge".
Standard.
5000mah+5amp= normal charge
Fast Charging
5000mah+10amp= charge twice as fast *MUST BALANCE EVERY TIME*
If you do not balance charge, it will overload the first cell and fry your battery.
I am typing this out even though most of you are fully aware.. Because there are kids and others who have a true ignorance for a Lithium Cell. And read that and think they can just press a button and things go faster.
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I use one of these:
http://www.nitroplanes.com/75p-1220-charger.html
Because these were on backorder (30a charge!):
http://thunderpowerrc.com/html/TP1430C.html
I had one of these power supplies just lying around:
http://www.rivergatedist.com/bulldog_30_amp.htm
http://www.nitroplanes.com/75p-1220-charger.html
Because these were on backorder (30a charge!):
http://thunderpowerrc.com/html/TP1430C.html
I had one of these power supplies just lying around:
http://www.rivergatedist.com/bulldog_30_amp.htm
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I killed one within the first couple packs ever of getting the truck...before replacements were out... All good since. One of my buddies broke one a month or so ago...
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Thunderpower looks awesome.1000 watts holy ish. Just need to buy a deans connector harness for the batts since i dont use those bullet/ banana connectors.
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One of the guys I race with was changing batteries between rounds and said "Oh Sh** which one of these did I charge?" and I looked at him and asked "you have more than one battery?" ![EEK!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/eek.gif)
I never change my battery. One of the things I've been doing lately is going to the track with whatever setup I'm going to run that day, and just messing with the motor and nothing else. I look at lap times, motor temps, and how many MHA the battery takes to see if I'm making progress or not (usually, faster lap times and more MHA means you are making more power, but it might mean the track had more grip and you could beat on the throttle more).
![EEK!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/eek.gif)
I never change my battery. One of the things I've been doing lately is going to the track with whatever setup I'm going to run that day, and just messing with the motor and nothing else. I look at lap times, motor temps, and how many MHA the battery takes to see if I'm making progress or not (usually, faster lap times and more MHA means you are making more power, but it might mean the track had more grip and you could beat on the throttle more).
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One of the guys I race with was changing batteries between rounds and said "Oh Sh** which one of these did I charge?" and I looked at him and asked "you have more than one battery?" ![EEK!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/eek.gif)
I never change my battery. One of the things I've been doing lately is going to the track with whatever setup I'm going to run that day, and just messing with the motor and nothing else. I look at lap times, motor temps, and how many MHA the battery takes to see if I'm making progress or not (usually, faster lap times and more MHA means you are making more power, but it might mean the track had more grip and you could beat on the throttle more).
![EEK!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/eek.gif)
I never change my battery. One of the things I've been doing lately is going to the track with whatever setup I'm going to run that day, and just messing with the motor and nothing else. I look at lap times, motor temps, and how many MHA the battery takes to see if I'm making progress or not (usually, faster lap times and more MHA means you are making more power, but it might mean the track had more grip and you could beat on the throttle more).
If I'm out at the track and can get to my car, I'm a 2 pack man. If i'm in PRCR where I only have a little 12a PS, I have to suffer the hour charge.
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If I had a laptop that worked I would have played with my esc settings on my rx8. current limiting and maybe take just a little power out down low.
other than that practice, practice, practice.
biggest thing that worked for me were tires and adding a shim to the rear link. then basically I was practicing my lines and learning the characteristics of the truck. I was driving aggressively but noticed if I took it easier the truck was planted but I wanted to be extra fast I like the speed it has.
This track I ran on makes you a better driver cause its so bumpy, dusty and sandy. If you can hook on this you can hook on anything.
I'm gonna be running the ish out of this truck now.
other than that practice, practice, practice.
biggest thing that worked for me were tires and adding a shim to the rear link. then basically I was practicing my lines and learning the characteristics of the truck. I was driving aggressively but noticed if I took it easier the truck was planted but I wanted to be extra fast I like the speed it has.
This track I ran on makes you a better driver cause its so bumpy, dusty and sandy. If you can hook on this you can hook on anything.
I'm gonna be running the ish out of this truck now.
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Just wanted to say I got my exotek inline saddle setup mounted and wanted to report that if you are running the taller lipos, it can be a bit of a pain getting them in and out. As I wanted to use the spacer to make the post taller, I have to flex the post slightly to get them to come out. May not be an issue if you run longer screws without the extra piece to make the post taller.
I also fitted a Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro, fits great righter under the tunnel with room for the fan.
Anyway, thanks for all the advice. Hope to report some success with the vehicle tomorrow.
I also fitted a Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro, fits great righter under the tunnel with room for the fan.
Anyway, thanks for all the advice. Hope to report some success with the vehicle tomorrow.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
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Well, I have to say, Craig and Cameron are onto something with the front springs on the rear thing they have going on, I am now a believer. Decided to try the blue fronts in the rear like Craig suggested, just guessed on the shock oil and put in 35w, threw it out on the track and qualified 5th in the A. Electronic gremlins sunk me in the main, but I have to say the truck is better. Biggest thing I noticed was corner speed came way up, especially in long sweepers, the rear end just plants and stays there. I was no longer playing the balance the rear end with the throttle game between traction and loss of traction on this one particular long decreasing radius corner at the track I run on as my truck would no longer "dump over", it now corners flat and I can push it much harder than before. Looking forward to seeing some of the setups that come from this line of thinking on the springs. Keep it coming guys!
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been using the Reedy saddles , Novak 5.5 550 Ballistic with 16T .
lrp Sxxv2 ,6 on boost...
get 15min easy
Hard to say why your not getting time , but saying you should be .
A hunch , try a buddies pack out and see if your pack is the issue .
Still Loving my Sc10 , we have a new really tight layout with a bunch of 180 turns ....
Dang , my Ae has a huge advatage on a course like this .
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The other cars just do not steer like the Ae on those 180's ....
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Last edited by Wild Cherry; 03-04-2012 at 12:35 AM.
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I wont touch it then. You set it up with all shocks on outside hole.
@coyote , I did notice it is how you leave the jump, when I go up I let the throttle off and it would go level.
The truck is very responsive in the air for me, too responsive. Goin to experiment with drag brake. When I tapped brakes in air, it would bring the nose down abruptly because I run a lot of brake. My truck would do anything I wanted to do, I noticed it did like to jump nose high for the most part , I think thats from the center diff , having throttle and the weight being biased more in the rear. Im.still learning the truck in its new configuration. I was giving the nitro buggys a good run, I could beat them on the straights and stay neck in neck with them in the turns until one of them would would take me out . If they couldnt drive around me theyd bash me..
Was fun, glad I got the 6000mah saddles. I need to get two more sets, I was putting back in almost 5000 mah in charge. Even with my 7 amp.chgr it was taking forever.
This truck is so much easier to drive. I saw Jason Ruona out there today and wanted to run some things by him but he left before I got to talk to him.
For whoever asked, I ran at Orange County Paintball. Daytona is a better prepped track but its 55 miles away.
@coyote , I did notice it is how you leave the jump, when I go up I let the throttle off and it would go level.
The truck is very responsive in the air for me, too responsive. Goin to experiment with drag brake. When I tapped brakes in air, it would bring the nose down abruptly because I run a lot of brake. My truck would do anything I wanted to do, I noticed it did like to jump nose high for the most part , I think thats from the center diff , having throttle and the weight being biased more in the rear. Im.still learning the truck in its new configuration. I was giving the nitro buggys a good run, I could beat them on the straights and stay neck in neck with them in the turns until one of them would would take me out . If they couldnt drive around me theyd bash me..
Was fun, glad I got the 6000mah saddles. I need to get two more sets, I was putting back in almost 5000 mah in charge. Even with my 7 amp.chgr it was taking forever.
This truck is so much easier to drive. I saw Jason Ruona out there today and wanted to run some things by him but he left before I got to talk to him.
For whoever asked, I ran at Orange County Paintball. Daytona is a better prepped track but its 55 miles away.
IF your batteries are getting hot its because those batteries you have ( i use the same ones) are only 25c so what you need to do is gear down 1 or 2 teeth and add some timing up top (Profile 2 is enough) this takes some load off of the motor through the turns, creates less heat and will net you the same if not faster top speeds.
Brakes: you only want to dial in as much brake as you need, this way when you are racing you dont have to worry about applying too much brake and locking up the front. Downside to this is that it does make it harder to get the nose down but i have found that some drag brake balances that out as well as applying the brakes as soon as you get in the air before peak altitude.
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
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My Gens ace saddle are getting hot also. Should I drop to a 14T or 15T Pinion on my 1410? It doesn't react well to timing.