SC10 4x4 Thread
#1816
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HOLY CRAP THIS TRUCK IS AWESOME.
Box stock setup seems pretty OK. Didn't race it, but the truck feels pretty decent, even on a pretty tight indoor track.
Motor and speedo seemed to get a little hot geared 16/63 (Castle SCT 3800 motor with a REAL Mamba Max), but ThunderbirdJunkie didn't have a temp gun on him. Dropped to a 15t, but haven't run it at the track to see what it'll run like.
God, so many horsepowers, and OK steering. Put 10k in the front diff and 3k in the rear with 32.5wt at all 4 corners with the kit pistons. Seems a little slow to react and the steering isn't quite what ThunderbirdJunkie expected, but again, he was on a high bite indoor track and not his normal outdoor haunt. The only reason 10k was put in the front is because there are people going 60k in the front to calm it down, but the truck felt "spongy". Got a Spektrum S6040 for steering and the EPAs are set properly (mid/high 60%s?????)
ThunderbirdJunkie eyeballed 0 toe after setting the front camber to 2* and left the rear alone. An SCTE owning racing buddy drove the truck and seemed to be trying to hide his want for the truck.
Oh, and after about 12ish minutes of hammering on the track, the battery only took 3200ish mAh. That was with the 16t pinion (32p)
Holy god this thing is going to be insane when it's dialed in. Thinking 7k front/5k rear, locked clicker, toe/camber where it is now for outdoor as a basic setup...maybe drop to 30wt in the front shocks. Might even toe it out a hair.
BTW- this whole business with being able to lock the steering with your 2mm driver to adjust toe is like...wow. AWESOME.
Nice work, AE. What a sicknasty rig.
Box stock setup seems pretty OK. Didn't race it, but the truck feels pretty decent, even on a pretty tight indoor track.
Motor and speedo seemed to get a little hot geared 16/63 (Castle SCT 3800 motor with a REAL Mamba Max), but ThunderbirdJunkie didn't have a temp gun on him. Dropped to a 15t, but haven't run it at the track to see what it'll run like.
God, so many horsepowers, and OK steering. Put 10k in the front diff and 3k in the rear with 32.5wt at all 4 corners with the kit pistons. Seems a little slow to react and the steering isn't quite what ThunderbirdJunkie expected, but again, he was on a high bite indoor track and not his normal outdoor haunt. The only reason 10k was put in the front is because there are people going 60k in the front to calm it down, but the truck felt "spongy". Got a Spektrum S6040 for steering and the EPAs are set properly (mid/high 60%s?????)
ThunderbirdJunkie eyeballed 0 toe after setting the front camber to 2* and left the rear alone. An SCTE owning racing buddy drove the truck and seemed to be trying to hide his want for the truck.
Oh, and after about 12ish minutes of hammering on the track, the battery only took 3200ish mAh. That was with the 16t pinion (32p)
Holy god this thing is going to be insane when it's dialed in. Thinking 7k front/5k rear, locked clicker, toe/camber where it is now for outdoor as a basic setup...maybe drop to 30wt in the front shocks. Might even toe it out a hair.
BTW- this whole business with being able to lock the steering with your 2mm driver to adjust toe is like...wow. AWESOME.
Nice work, AE. What a sicknasty rig.
#1817
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Hey guys lots of great info on here. Unfortunately i haven't been able to keep up as much due to work and other obligations. Seems like i'm always 25 pages or more off the pace. I'll finally have some time to put my kit together over the next week or so but wanted to know what basic back-up parts are recommended (especially from those already racing their Trucks the last few weeks). I hear the Truck is quite durable, but having extras never hurts in saving a race weekend. Also, what are some advantages/disadvantages when comparing a 550 motor and a 540 motor for the kit? I was leaning towards Tekin or LRP with regard to my ESC. Novak may be an option as well. I generally run on larger outdoor tracks that accommodate both Truggy and 8th Scale buggies.
Thanks in advanced for sharing any helpful tips and info!
Thanks in advanced for sharing any helpful tips and info!
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#1818
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Hey...recommendations on batteries? Don't care if it's a $20 cheapie from HK or a $150 Thunder Power pack...ThunderbirdJunkie needs a good battery or two for this truck since it's a lot heavier duty than his other 1/10 2 cell stuff and taxed the Venom 30c 5000 and the Turnigy 5000 20c that he ran pretty heavily, it seemed.
#1819
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Hey...recommendations on batteries? Don't care if it's a $20 cheapie from HK or a $150 Thunder Power pack...ThunderbirdJunkie needs a good battery or two for this truck since it's a lot heavier duty than his other 1/10 2 cell stuff and taxed the Venom 30c 5000 and the Turnigy 5000 20c that he ran pretty heavily, it seemed.
#1820
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#1821
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OK, I ran my first race with the SC10 4x4 tonight at west coast raceway in La Mirada. The track is a high bite clay track so everyone runs major HP! I ran a 550 4.5 Monster Horsepower motor geared 12/62 with a novak kinetic esc. Motor was nice and fast, not uncontrollable and about the same speed as everyone else. For starters I tried the thick diff fluid in the front, 50k and ran 5k in the rear. The truck was controllable, not overly twitchy, and for me I needed a little more steering. I can't wait till the sway bars come out! In my opinion they are really needed to get around the track faster. Next time I'm going to drop the weight down to 30k or 15k and try that. I think the rear diff was good with 5k. I ended up qualifying 4th overall and ended up 3rd in the main. I was able to do some fast laps here and there but I need more time on the track to even try to compete with our fast guys!
#1822
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most likely the internal BEC is too weak for that servo... best fix if you are running a 2s lipo is bypass the esc BEC and run a direct plug from your battery (2s lipo max) into your Rx. Problem fixed. Best way to disable the inernal BEC is to put a short extension on and cut the center wire, that or carefully back out the center wire from the ESC plug either way works. You could spend money on caps and other fixes.. but this fix is virtually free.
I HIGHLY recommend the hitec 985MG servo, 180oz, super fast metal gears you cannot go wrong... can be found under 80 easily. This servo works on the MMp reguardless of voltage.
I HIGHLY recommend the hitec 985MG servo, 180oz, super fast metal gears you cannot go wrong... can be found under 80 easily. This servo works on the MMp reguardless of voltage.
I have the exact same thing. and I use an external BEC with my MMP + ace ds 1015. I had the exact same electronics in my slash 4wd without this nervous servoc center studder.
It only happens when the wheels are of the ground.
#1823
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Hey...recommendations on batteries? Don't care if it's a $20 cheapie from HK or a $150 Thunder Power pack...ThunderbirdJunkie needs a good battery or two for this truck since it's a lot heavier duty than his other 1/10 2 cell stuff and taxed the Venom 30c 5000 and the Turnigy 5000 20c that he ran pretty heavily, it seemed.
#1824
Tech Initiate
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The first test runs of the Asso SC10 at our race track in The Netherlands (Europe)
I hope you like it
(double click the video for HD)
I hope you like it
(double click the video for HD)
+ YouTube Video | |
#1825
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The first test runs of the Asso SC10 at our race track in The Netherlands (Europe)
I hope you like it
(double click the video for HD)
I hope you like it
(double click the video for HD)
+ YouTube Video | |
#1826
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Tbirdjunkie the setup im using is the LRP SPX8 speedo, LRP X12L 4.5 motor, Xp digital 1015 servo, and a Reedy 5500 60c. Im loving this truck and cant wait to get down and hit more races with it.
#1827
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Hey guys, Im building a buddys SC10 4x4(lucky me!), and he already has a servo, but needs electronics ie motor and speedo. If money wasnt a problem, what is THE motor and esc combo. Im thinking the RX8 and the SC4X 5.5 or 4.5, what do you think.
On another note, ive got 4 days of hard track running on this beast with no breakage. I was asked buy another, what spares do I have, and I replied "none, Im not worried about anything breaking."
On another note, ive got 4 days of hard track running on this beast with no breakage. I was asked buy another, what spares do I have, and I replied "none, Im not worried about anything breaking."
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#1828
Tech Rookie
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Have any of you that run on loose tracks try the 19T overdrive clicker yet? I tried it for about two laps before I broke the front right knuckle, but from what I could tell it really helped exiting the corners on power and full throttle down the straight without the rear sliding out….
I would add Front Steering-Caster Blocks #91026 to your list of extra parts if you haven’t already.
I would add Front Steering-Caster Blocks #91026 to your list of extra parts if you haven’t already.
Last edited by OhGetSick; 07-12-2011 at 07:43 AM.
#1829
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
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Was referring to the actually brake , but too much coast brake would do similar .
I know from the driving the Sc4x4 it does not tend to nose dive , my feeling are it jumps great, with the same agility of a 2w Sc10 only better...
If your comfortable with your radio settings maybe the next place to check is the ride height and driving technique ..
My radio & ESC settings , just so you can compare...
Lrp V2 ESC
modes 1-1-1-1
Novak 550 5.5 15T/62S
Airtronics Mx 11
EPA
100% high
73% low
EXP 0%
TH ARC 0%
I know from the driving the Sc4x4 it does not tend to nose dive , my feeling are it jumps great, with the same agility of a 2w Sc10 only better...
If your comfortable with your radio settings maybe the next place to check is the ride height and driving technique ..
My radio & ESC settings , just so you can compare...
Lrp V2 ESC
modes 1-1-1-1
Novak 550 5.5 15T/62S
Airtronics Mx 11
EPA
100% high
73% low
EXP 0%
TH ARC 0%