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Old 02-24-2012, 08:28 PM
  #18166  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
Craig is a math genius for sure. I was a little surprised when I posted my set up for the last big race at PRCR that know one asked WTH with the rear springs.

I changed the 2 stage pistons and think they will compliment the higher spring rates now. Getting some track time this weekend to get ready for the PRCR Intvational next weekend. Ryan Cavaliere will be there. Hopefully he wont bring his truck
Cameron, I hope you slip Ryan a copy of your setup sheet
Never know, yours might be perfect too

I have been reading and can see that Craig is just all over the math stuff....and I love the way he can explain it. Thanks Craig!

BTW, could you let me know where to find your setup sheet...I may want to experiment with Springs too. Hell, maybe I will take some old t-2 or b-2 shocks and mount them all around as "helper/two stage" Suspension. Im sure it wont work but will draw attention to "my" setup.


Sal

PS....big thanks to all involved here who know how to "explain" things to the common folk. Common Knowlege is Like Common Sense....not too Common.
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:31 PM
  #18167  
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is there two ft wheel hexs out ?
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:37 PM
  #18168  
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Chris.............thanks for the sway bars, they came in today.
Paul R.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:10 PM
  #18169  
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When you raise he inner ball stud, you lower the roll center. Now, we have to keep in mind that this is the static roll center. The actual roll center is constantly changing with chassis movement. The probl---err difficulty with this truck is that the cog and rc ratios front to rear are wacked. Early on I noticed the truck would corner with the rear rolling too much and the front too little. I raised the front inner ballstud 5mm, but how to lower the rear ballstud?? I chose to raise the outer ballstud instead. This fixed the rear roll center. I used the carbon fiber risers for the b4,t4. The rise was a little too much though. We need a rear hub carrier that has either a verticle ballstud, or a taller mounting point. Probably only 1-2mm would do.
With the raised outer stud, all hint of snap roll was gone!! The issue was the camber gain the truck then had in the rear. I needed more range of adjustment for link length.

I wish Marcus or STRC made a different rear hub carrier. hint hint.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:18 PM
  #18170  
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Originally Posted by rcmiket



I wish Marcus or STRC made a different rear hub carrier. hint hint.
Like this.
rear hub
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:26 PM
  #18171  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
Like this.
rear hub
Ooooh. Looks nice. Has anyone tried this? I kinda thought that the FT version would have come with redesigned rear hubs with more adjustment. I know a couple of guys at my track that tried the b4 carbon fiber risers.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Hanging it on a wall wont fix your problem. Giving up is too easy. You just have to keep.experimenting with shock oils and springs till it feels right to you.

My buddy manufactures lcg chassis for slash' s, they push, theyre great for straight line speed but they cannot take a corner tight like the ae. He beats all the other trucks cause he is a really good driver. He was running in the a main with his prototype at pnb l year against good drivers like jeremy kortz . I gotta say they are durable. I think the only thing that techinically is traxxas is just the diffs and shock towers and drivetrain.
Sscclg.com is his website
Now... Because I said I was shelving it, I am in direct receiving of this comment, So I only tease... But your truck has been at Mantis' place being tuned by 'not you' for weeks. You haven't been here with us experimenting forever. Where do you get to say "too easy" =P

I ended up getting the RCE chassis for the Slash and regret it heavily. Bottom line is, I've tuned for 8 months. I'm burnt out. I need a break, and the Slash drives better outside than my Sc10 4x4 does. No, it can't take those corners, But when the Losi's are taking the embankments on a big outdoor Track, I can too, and take them with skill, not a sharp corner.

I'm keeping an eye here and still driving my Sc10 4x4. But i'm done trying to get it to be my All terrain 4x4.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sugs
Ooooh. Looks nice. Has anyone tried this? I kinda thought that the FT version would have come with redesigned rear hubs with more adjustment. I know a couple of guys at my track that tried the b4 carbon fiber risers.
Can't go wrong with them to be honest. Hard to screw up a bearing carrier unless it uses some odd bearing -non- stock like those chinese do sometimes.
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by PastaBoyNY
I have been reading and can see that Craig is just all over the math stuff....and I love the way he can explain it. Thanks Craig!
Thank you for the complement, I sincerely appreciate it.

BTW, could you let me know where to find your setup sheet...
If you really want it, send me a PM. My advice is you don't really want it, you'd do better if you followed Cameron's sheet. He gets a lot more track time than I do, and is way more dialed in.

Some users have commented from time to time that the rear roll center is too low. AE does have a fix for that - look at the carbon pieces on the hubs...and while we're at it, look how much preload BK has on his rear springs. And count how many coils he has.



I'm pretty sure those are blue fronts in the rear.
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:31 PM
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Wonder what those white springs are. Some Random "goodluck finding them" 8th scale spring no doubt.
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rcmiket
I chose to raise the outer ballstud instead. This fixed the rear roll center. I used the carbon fiber risers for the b4,t4. The rise was a little too much though. We need a rear hub carrier that has either a verticle ballstud, or a taller mounting point. Probably only 1-2mm would do.
I have the AE carbon hub, and +3mm under the ball stud in the rear. All the way down was too loose.
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by rcmiket
When you raise he inner ball stud, you lower the roll center. Now, we have to keep in mind that this is the static roll center. The actual roll center is constantly changing with chassis movement. The probl---err difficulty with this truck is that the cog and rc ratios front to rear are wacked. Early on I noticed the truck would corner with the rear rolling too much and the front too little. I raised the front inner ballstud 5mm, but how to lower the rear ballstud?? I chose to raise the outer ballstud instead. This fixed the rear roll center. I used the carbon fiber risers for the b4,t4. The rise was a little too much though. We need a rear hub carrier that has either a verticle ballstud, or a taller mounting point. Probably only 1-2mm would do.
With the raised outer stud, all hint of snap roll was gone!! The issue was the camber gain the truck then had in the rear. I needed more range of adjustment for link length.

I wish Marcus or STRC made a different rear hub carrier. hint hint.
Couldn't you balance the rise you get with the cf risers by then adding washers under the inner ballstud to get it where you need it? Seems logical to me, or no?

Ooops, Craig answered the question already.
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:33 PM
  #18178  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
Craig is a math genius for sure. I was a little surprised when I posted my set up for the last big race at PRCR that know one asked WTH with the rear springs.
I somehow missed it and tried searching but couldn't find it, could you point or repost it?
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:45 AM
  #18179  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA

Some users have commented from time to time that the rear roll center is too low. AE does have a fix for that - look at the carbon pieces on the hubs...and while we're at it, look how much preload BK has on his rear springs. And count how many coils he has.



I'm pretty sure those are blue fronts in the rear.
Is that an old picture? I wonder why he is running the saddles up front?
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:48 AM
  #18180  
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without looking threw the hole thread is there a better steering bellcrank then the stock system I just bought a SC10 off a buddy that just broke the arm from where it swivels to the rack is the STRC aluminum system worth it or is there something I could use better then stock for that?

Also this truck is bone stock what else should I look to replace in the front while I have it off?
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